SLC 001 Build
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The flange actually lines up with something 
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The stock body has fairly wide gaps between the sides and sides of the chassis in the range of 4 inches, along the top edges the gaps are in the range of .25 to 1.00 inch depending on location. So either one would need to make a flange of the appropriate width or they would need to be supplied by RCR, due to some of the obstructions a bulb seal alone in this area would not suffice.
Nice that RCR continues to develop and fill out the components catalog which will make the car that much easier to construct for future purchasers......... And for the guys that have not come to this bridge yet, I am pleased this post has helped bring the factory solution to light.
<bonus> The stock body has fairly wide gaps between the sides and sides of the chassis in the range of 4 inches, along the top edges the gaps are in the range of .25 to 1.00 inch depending on location. So either one would need to make a flange of the appropriate width or they would need to be supplied by RCR, due to some of the obstructions a bulb seal alone in this area would not suffice.
Nice that RCR continues to develop and fill out the components catalog which will make the car that much easier to construct for future purchasers......... And for the guys that have not come to this bridge yet, I am pleased this post has helped bring the factory solution to light.
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Cool! Good to see the continuing development of the SLC. This will be a great addition for making the SLC quieter and a better car for road and track.
YouTube - Homestead Riley MKXXll
A sleigh ride for Christmas morning....yah baby. Gets blood flowing does it not?
This is the Riley track day car with the LS3 and cross-over exhaust (need a few SLCs in that vid). No big booms in the exhaust note. Me likes THAT Motown sound.
Merry X-mas
A sleigh ride for Christmas morning....yah baby. Gets blood flowing does it not?
This is the Riley track day car with the LS3 and cross-over exhaust (need a few SLCs in that vid). No big booms in the exhaust note. Me likes THAT Motown sound.
Merry X-mas
There is an SLC with a Chevy sprint car engine and crossover exhaust running around the mid west tracks....
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I know he heads out with the Chicago Porsche club every now and again...last he told me he had a fun time blowing by a Carrera GT V10.....he also had a nice 100mph flat spin coming out of the last turn at Gingerman too....:stunned:
Ok,
Now I have a question for you guys... I was working away on the car yesterday raising the front of the front pan so that the gaps between the front clip and the spider were consistent (the nose was low which pie shaped the side gap).
Not that has anything to do with the question.
When I was done with the day's work the passenger door would not shut. It has always shut perfect but now it hits on the striker like the door opening got shorter somehow. The result is that the striker drags on the inner door just before it would normally latch, then it hits hard after the first click of the latch happens. Is the striker hitting the far side of the latch mechanism? Is that was what is causing the hard stop before it fully closes?
Now I have a question for you guys... I was working away on the car yesterday raising the front of the front pan so that the gaps between the front clip and the spider were consistent (the nose was low which pie shaped the side gap).
Not that has anything to do with the question.
When I was done with the day's work the passenger door would not shut. It has always shut perfect but now it hits on the striker like the door opening got shorter somehow. The result is that the striker drags on the inner door just before it would normally latch, then it hits hard after the first click of the latch happens. Is the striker hitting the far side of the latch mechanism? Is that was what is causing the hard stop before it fully closes?
By the front pan do you mean the bolt-on aluminum 'floor' that sits below the radiator?
If so, I'd have to guess 'no' based on my experiences - changing the front clip never did anything, positive/negative to effect my doors. All the changes come from the spyder (I'm assuming you've got it bolted down) and the hinge mechanism themselves. For example, how I space the rod end for the door hinge can change everything - if I have 1 washer, rod end, 2 washers, but say reverse the order (2 washer, rod end, 1 washer) all off a sudden it won't close.
However, if all you touched was that aluminum floor then it does seem quite suspicious - if the spyder isn't bolted down (last I saw you had it on a bodybuck?) then I could see changing the front clip causing it to twist slightly somewhere effecting your door.
If so, I'd have to guess 'no' based on my experiences - changing the front clip never did anything, positive/negative to effect my doors. All the changes come from the spyder (I'm assuming you've got it bolted down) and the hinge mechanism themselves. For example, how I space the rod end for the door hinge can change everything - if I have 1 washer, rod end, 2 washers, but say reverse the order (2 washer, rod end, 1 washer) all off a sudden it won't close.
However, if all you touched was that aluminum floor then it does seem quite suspicious - if the spyder isn't bolted down (last I saw you had it on a bodybuck?) then I could see changing the front clip causing it to twist slightly somewhere effecting your door.
No Alex, I was just yapping about the front pan as a side note. I don't think it has any effect on the subject. Nor should anything I did to the car yesterday (?) My question was - what now is stopping the door from closing properly. I'm sure I can figure it out, I just think it's odd that all the sudden it no longer works properly and what the conflict might be.
Oh sure, go ahead and confuse me with floor pan talk
Assuming you havn't changed any of your 'settings' on the door hinge (washer spacings, etc...) and the fiberglass hasn't magically moved (I know a lot of people say it's a living creature, but after 4 fiberglass cars and extreme temp changes, -50*c to +30*c, I've never seen it happen), I'd look at 2 things from my experiences
1 - From the last time the doors worked properly have you done anything that would "touch" the spyder section (e.g., when you closed up the rear firewall gap, did the doors work properly after that or is this the first time you've put them on since). I've found that it is very sensitive to small changes - for example, I tried a small piece of bulb seal on the rear firewall. Even though the spyder was bolted down, the bulb seal twisted the top of it juuuust slightly such that my rear clip didn't sit right anymore (couldn't latch my quick release pins) and my door didn't latch properly anymore. So from that I've been leery to seal up the rear firewall and instead make certain I have a slight gap to ensure the spyder isn't sitting on anything.
2 - The lower door hinge is incredibly sensitive to how you tighten it. For example, on the forward-most nuts, if I turn them an extra 1/4 turn I can go from the bottom of the door and the sides being perfectly even to the the bottom kicked out 1/8'' and the sides twisted inwards. Just from a slight 1/4 turn. Alternatively on the rear-most nuts if you tighten them more than hand tight you can twist the door unintentionally (I end up hand-tightening them, then back up with a nylock down the road). SO basically I'm just trying to see if you're tightening down the front hinge the same as before, because I've found an extra 1/8 of a turn of a nut can have a HUGE impact on if the door can latch and how it sits.
Failing that, I'm not certain - that's about all I ran into that caused the door to twist and not align/latch properly. I suppose worst case is you just undo your striker and move it around a bit in the slot until it latches fully again.
Assuming you havn't changed any of your 'settings' on the door hinge (washer spacings, etc...) and the fiberglass hasn't magically moved (I know a lot of people say it's a living creature, but after 4 fiberglass cars and extreme temp changes, -50*c to +30*c, I've never seen it happen), I'd look at 2 things from my experiences
1 - From the last time the doors worked properly have you done anything that would "touch" the spyder section (e.g., when you closed up the rear firewall gap, did the doors work properly after that or is this the first time you've put them on since). I've found that it is very sensitive to small changes - for example, I tried a small piece of bulb seal on the rear firewall. Even though the spyder was bolted down, the bulb seal twisted the top of it juuuust slightly such that my rear clip didn't sit right anymore (couldn't latch my quick release pins) and my door didn't latch properly anymore. So from that I've been leery to seal up the rear firewall and instead make certain I have a slight gap to ensure the spyder isn't sitting on anything.
2 - The lower door hinge is incredibly sensitive to how you tighten it. For example, on the forward-most nuts, if I turn them an extra 1/4 turn I can go from the bottom of the door and the sides being perfectly even to the the bottom kicked out 1/8'' and the sides twisted inwards. Just from a slight 1/4 turn. Alternatively on the rear-most nuts if you tighten them more than hand tight you can twist the door unintentionally (I end up hand-tightening them, then back up with a nylock down the road). SO basically I'm just trying to see if you're tightening down the front hinge the same as before, because I've found an extra 1/8 of a turn of a nut can have a HUGE impact on if the door can latch and how it sits.
Failing that, I'm not certain - that's about all I ran into that caused the door to twist and not align/latch properly. I suppose worst case is you just undo your striker and move it around a bit in the slot until it latches fully again.
That could be a culprit - Rob, is this the first time you've had the doors on since you closed up the gaps?
As said above, I've found the spyder to be (even when bolted down) very sensitive to changes and anything touching it. For example, when I tried the bulb seal on the rear firewall - the bulbseal wasn't jammed into the spyder and propping it up, but it was juuuust barely touching it. And just that small touch was enough to put some slight twist here and there which translated into the rear clip quick release pins not sliding in properly anymore (my qr pins basically slide through 6 5/16'' holes so it's very easy to tell if a misalignment is going on).
Even if the flange is behind it and not touching anything perhaps a verrrry slight twist happened somewhere when the fiberglass was curing?
The other thing I've found from doing my body mods/installing stuff is that you should try to do it with the spyder on the chassis - for whatever reason things just don't seem to translate well (atleast when I've tried doing it) doing them off the chassis and expecting it to line up properly on the chassis.
I'll figure it out as soon as I have time to look into it. I was hoping someone had a similar experience with the 'hard stop' portion of the comments, there is some conflict with the latch / striker. The door shut fine before and after the flange mods...and has always shut fine up to the end of that day of work. I'll find it, no worries.
Thanks for the thoughts
Thanks for the thoughts
I was fiddling around with the wing position and the pivot points. It has been a goal to make the tail and the wing move in one motion. Jack had a good idea in that the assy should pivot at the base so I went there first, I like the idea that the assy move rearward as it opens offering nice access to the engine bay. Unfortunately the clip moves back rather quick on initial movement and will fowl the tops of my rads, so I will need to move the pivot point up the assy more to prevent that. The wing is really high in these shots but it's easy to make the mock up shorter...kind of hard to raise it. The assy will be all of a trellis design not solid as shown in this mock up work, the clip will need to be slotted and reinforced to allow the canards to go through uninterrupted.
Still looking for wing height to rear view mirror information. What is the best wing height on an SLC to allow best rear vision. At this height one would look under the wing. Cam had given some feedback. Anyone else have real world recommendations?
Thanks
Still looking for wing height to rear view mirror information. What is the best wing height on an SLC to allow best rear vision. At this height one would look under the wing. Cam had given some feedback. Anyone else have real world recommendations?
Thanks
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looks cool...we hinge the rear wing in a similar position and its separate from the tail section...
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