LBC Build Log - Apex
- Thread starter LBCportagee
- Start date
One issue we ran into was finding a splined steering shaft that matched the eclipse (maybe 14mm but measured .555). Moot issue because our fuel tank interfered with the stock steering location. We needed to lengthen the intermediate shaft coming out of the firewall so we machined a slip joint that was .555 on one side and 3/4 DD on the other. This way we could also purchase standard size u-joints to match up with the rack and 3/4 DD shaft we got.
Cut off the existing u joint and welded on the slip joint. The DD side just gets set screws.
Needed additional support so adding steering rod end. You can see slip joint at firewall that along with the short shaft drops down below fuel tank.
Cut off the existing u joint and welded on the slip joint. The DD side just gets set screws.
Needed additional support so adding steering rod end. You can see slip joint at firewall that along with the short shaft drops down below fuel tank.
Building this car is much more difficult than building other RCR kits because there are no directions on how to proceed and there are so few being built. It involves a lot of trial and error and buying a lot of parts that you later find do not fit as they interfere with critical parts later. I haven't decided if you save any money as you source parts individually instead of a group buy like RCR can. In the end, I think it will be a good car.
Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
The kits supplied were all Beta build prototypes essentially....
The Apex had not achieved production status and the project is with a new owner , they have plans to develop it further .
The Apex had not achieved production status and the project is with a new owner , they have plans to develop it further .
Honestly I'm just trying to stay positive about the build and just trying to move forward and onto the next thing to eventually complete the car. Obviously this isn't what I expected when I jumped in (most builds aren't) but I look at that as partially my mistake because I didn't wait to see what the build would require - I just anticipated the product would be like their other cars and went off the earlier discussion about the Apex on the forum.
I think in a lot of builds you would go back and do things differently given the chance, not necessarily regret. I already have a list of those here. It's part of the process. But to answer your question, going back to the beginning, there's no question I would pick another car. I think it could be easy to stick to a budget with the SLC and still have an awesome car.
Revisiting this post...just bought some headlamps on ebay. Kind of an impulse buy but hey. After looking recently I could find new HID assemblies for $590. But then you'd also have to buy all the light sockets and bulbs and covers and ballast etc. which add up. These are a set of used JDM lamps with all for $499. New aftermarket lamps (spec-d etc) would look more used then these within a month with their cheap plastic...so for a $200 premium I'm hoping this is a better deal (and I don't regret buying it after getting them in hand like most of my past used purchases on ebay).
.jpg)
Last edited:
More fueling. Filter and lift pump. UPS lost the majority of my fittings so can't go much further yet.
Will be using redhorse performance fittings for pretty much the entire system. They're very good quality for the price and I've had good results with them. Streetsideauto.com has pretty good prices on them. Using RH's series 205 E85 braided stainless.
Got my flex fuel sensor. You can usually use an OEM sensor instead of the aftermarket ECU part. Here the GM sensor is 1/3 the price of the Haltech one and it's the identical sensor. Also I prefer this style of SAE fuel line quick disconnect (over the plastic insert style). I don't usually buy Russell but the disconnect is a good part. I bought the Russell nut and sleeve, because matching brands is usually a good idea however this is why I don't buy Russell. Very poor finished part.
Curious why this redhorse version would not work?
EFI Fitting -06 AN Male to 3/8" SAE Quick-disconnect Female -black
– Redhorse Performance - We Bring Fast Things To Life
EFI Fitting -06 AN Male to 3/8" SAE Quick-disconnect Female -black
– Redhorse Performance - We Bring Fast Things To Life
Lapse of judgment. Needed $99 for free shipping at Summit and they don't carry RH...lol. Truthfully I wasn't thinking RH would have that style of quick release fitting and didn't see it until later. I considered sending it back but said f it.
Tacking up the business end of the harness mounts.
And the inside
And the inside
I think I may have screwed the pooch. Can someone with knowledge of the light brake inspection (California) chime in regards to DOT lights. These JDM OEM lights I bought are basically the same exact light as the US OEM lights however I don't think they will have DOT stamping. I'm guessing this as stupid as it sounds will be a problem.
EDIT: Well what's funny is the headlamp came with a broken mounting tab (I have the worst ebay luck), this time it works out because these JDM lights are going back to Japan. So I guess I'm buying US OEM halogen lights instead of the HID. I can't stomach 900 for those things.
EDIT: Well what's funny is the headlamp came with a broken mounting tab (I have the worst ebay luck), this time it works out because these JDM lights are going back to Japan. So I guess I'm buying US OEM halogen lights instead of the HID. I can't stomach 900 for those things.
Last edited:
Done
There was a lightweight panel in the tunnel of the eclipse they call a reinforcement panel. Was going to toss it but I think it will come in useful as a heat shield for the coolant lines in the tunnel....only problem, they interfere with the coolant lines in the tunnel. So cut out the center brace and the portion of the panel that went around it. Now can run the stainless tubes level front to back.
Also I bought this style of weld-in twin tube beta clamp's for the 1-1/2 stainless tubes in the tunnel. Little concerned about the plastic, believe it's probably polypropylene. Curious if anyone has used them and know if they will hold up to coolant line temperatures?
Got some aluminum angle I need to use up so I put together this battery box. Probably will be some changes for mounting
Also I bought this style of weld-in twin tube beta clamp's for the 1-1/2 stainless tubes in the tunnel. Little concerned about the plastic, believe it's probably polypropylene. Curious if anyone has used them and know if they will hold up to coolant line temperatures?
I have the exact same things holding my water pipes. So far, so good. Although I've only had the car on the dyno as the "hot" test. No street miles yet.
Scott
Lifetime Supporter
Hard to know if you aren't sure of the material... best way is to test it. My wife loves it when I use kitchen appliances for experiments. A 15 PSI pressure cooker with get to 250 F which is about the right temp. I'd drop it in and cook it for a couple of hours and see what happens. I'd be more worried about a plastic smell than it melting. If you don't have one you can get a new one from Amazon for $49
