Cool thank you. I'll check them out.
Looks good - with noted exception of the air bubbles…. I used a single long bolt for my top&bottom hinge points as my door surfaces where the hinge plates bolt on were not parallel And I had a bit of binding there. The single bolt forced the hinge point to be in the exact same plane top to bottom…. Door handle hinge point - yeah, someone did not have any sort of durability in mind by just anchring the door handle with a bolt glassed into the door. I found some channel iron that gave me an incredibly durable pivot point.
BTW - air pockets:
I found hundreds of air bubbles in my body. I literally took a small welding chipping hammer to open all them up that I could find. The Gelcoat cannot be trusted to not open up to expose a bubble.. You don’t want that to happen after it has been painted…
Exactly what I did for my anti-intrusion beams…Thanks Randy,
I was debating on trying 1 long bolt as well. I was thinking it would beef the feel of the door up even more. I was also thinking this would allow me to install tubing inside the door at the hinge point. I could then tie that into the anti intrusion system I plan to add to the door. I would like the door to have some steel tieing it together from the hinge to the latch.
Sean
I have this same exact problem in the same exact place. Passenger door rear part of the roof is too high .... trying to come up with a solution. let me know if you figure anything out.I decided to add bushings to the door hinges as seen in Randy’s build. I went with the bushings when I noticed a lot of slack in the hinge system. The bushings tightened everything up and makes for a smooth opening door.
These doors are going to require quite a bit of patience to make fit properly. The driver door sets pretty good, but the passenger door doesn’t seem to line up with the spider properly. I’m going to check a few things on the spider and the door before moving forward with the doors.
Unfortunately I found several air bubbles when cutting the hole for the handles. I’m going to look at reenforcing the handle pivots with some sort of angle iron. I don’t like the idea of fiberglass as a pivot point.
Looking real goodI decided to put the doors on hold a bit and play, it’s been a been a while since I started it. Exhaust pipes look pretty good.
It’s the new low airflow design. Helps to warm the engine up on cold days.
Thanks Rob.Nice work Sean. That thing sounds great.
Are you planning to do the body work and paint? I always dread that part. Makes such a mess.
SeanMade a new video. Found a fouled plug causing the backfire. Sounds much better now.
Sean
What’s the specs on your wheels and tires? Brand?
Your build is coming along nicely keep up the great work.
Devin
Which size bushings worked out best for the door hinges?I decided to add bushings to the door hinges as seen in Randy’s build. I went with the bushings when I noticed a lot of slack in the hinge system. The bushings tightened everything up and makes for a smooth opening door.
These doors are going to require quite a bit of patience to make fit properly. The driver door sets pretty good, but the passenger door doesn’t seem to line up with the spider properly. I’m going to check a few things on the spider and the door before moving forward with the doors.
Unfortunately I found several air bubbles when cutting the hole for the handles. I’m going to look at reenforcing the handle pivots with some sort of angle iron. I don’t like the idea of fiberglass as a pivot point.