Joel K
Supporter
Does the DEI heat shield burn?
Hi Neil,
From their documentation. HEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II withstands up to 1750°F. The adhesive side holds past 450°F.
Does the DEI heat shield burn?
Hi Neil,
From their documentation. HEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II withstands up to 1750°F. The adhesive side holds past 450°F.
The important point is "does it burn?". Lots of materials will withstand high temperatures but at some point become flammable. The more flammable material in a car, the harder it is to extinguish. My Porsche 911 went up in a big cloud of smoke. With a rear/mid-engine car, you are the last to know you are on fire!Hi Neil,
From their documentation. HEI Floor & Tunnel Shield II withstands up to 1750°F. The adhesive side holds past 450°F.
Nice work.
Have you looked at the high temp tape for holding parts together for tacking? How did the hot glue work, any contamination of the welds?
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Polyester-Tape-Multi-Sized-PET/dp/B07VSR5BRH?th=1
You are right; it is misleading, however, to compare total area of small hole patterns, though. Air doesn't like to be funneled through small holes and the resulting restriction can be surprisingly high. A wire screen should have low restriction if one looks at its open area % but no....Unlike Richard Simmons, I do not want to be sweating to the oldies while cruising in the SLC down the New Jersey Turnpike so it’s time to revisit the evaporator install.
View attachment 128089
This post covers opening up the air vent holes and modifying how the Vintage Air evaporator is mounted to the chassis.
First up is opening up the air vent holes. As delivered, RCR cuts six 1” diameter holes in the chassis. The blower motor pushes air through these holes and into an anchor shaped fiberglass plenum which distributes air to the front and defroster vents…
View attachment 128088
A number of other builders have recommended this mod. Just for kicks I calculated the surface area of the 6 holes(4.61 square inches) versus the two 2” round front facing vents(6.28 square inches). So it looks like the six 1” holes likely creates an airflow restriction out of the evaporator. Sine the 3 elongated holes yield 11.35 square inches this mod makes total sense. Pic of the holes elongated with a jig saw…
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Also made matching holes in the evaporator…
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Next up is modifying how the evaporator is mounted to the chassis. The way Vintage Air recommends to install the evaporator is to use the two supplied brackets which attach to each front side of the evaporator case.
Since there is more weight toward the back of the unit I added two brackets to attach to the rear rivnut holes on each side of the blower motor. This really firms up the mounting of the evaporator to avoid any rattling...
View attachment 128092
During the initial install back on post #119 it was really difficult to get to the right rear bolt through the heater and AC lines in that area. Here is a pic of the left rear bolt…
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Just a bit of poor planning on my part. I knew at some point if I ever had to remove the unit it would be near impossible with a finished interior. So wanted to simplify the install for that rear bracket. Decided to attach the two rear brackets to a .25” piece of aluminum stock, added some threaded holes so it could be accessed and tightened from above.…
View attachment 128094
Now to reinstall the evaporator. Attach the evaporator to the front brackets without tightening the bolts and leave it at it’s lowest position. Before tightening the front bolts, push the evaporator up and screw in the rear bracket from above. The rear bracket holds the unit in place then tighten up the two front bolts and your done. Pic showing the rear bracket drawn up to the top chassis panel…
View attachment 128095
So to service and remove the evaporator I’ll first need to remove the dash and remove those top screws but feel it is a good trade off…
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Another item checked off the list!
Suspension position | Ride height | Passenger Side Axle Movement, total in-out range | Driver Side Axle Movement, total in-out range |
At Ride Height | 4.65” | .75” | .56” |
At 2” Compression | 2.65” | .875” | .625” |
At 1.5” of Droop | 6.15” | .625” | .5” |
post #178
Steve's GT-R Build Thread
Steve, Regarding your CV boot problem- It is common practice to place zip-ties over the rubber bellows of those CV joints to keep centrifugal force from over-expanding them at high speed. You might try that trick.www.gt40s.com
post #287
There has been other builders with the same issue. I just can’t recall who. Perhaps they will chime in.
This issue should be made into a sticky on the first page of both RCR forums.
That is a great modification Joel. I wish it was available as a kit. I’d buy it for sure. I keep reading about what a horror it is to fit the A-pillar covers.
Can you provide a material list and what was the machined the diameter of the tube that slip fit into the existing tube?