Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40

How did the dash fit that I sold you?
David, as with everything…I made it fit! It took a bit of trimming as I wanted to expose the lower structure of the dash support metalwork replicating the original race cars. I couldn’t have gotten this far without the parts I got from you and this forum!
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This weekend’s work was on the rear clam latch pockets as well as placing the front & rear clam bumpers to set the clam height and lower panel gaps. Next I’ll mix a batch of epoxy resin & colloidal powder for fastening the backing plate to the pocket opening.
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Mark H.

Supporter
I thought it looked familiar. I have a V-8 Lotus Europa project with a G86 transaxle and used the stock shifter box and cables too, but upgraded with a shorter throw shifter kit which was a big improvement. Just a comment.
 

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Quick evening project…conversion/upgraded short throw shifter from the stock plastic Porsche stick shifter. Spent too much time trying to gently convince the old plastic retainer/bearings to come out last night…went with the more expedient YouTube way of cutting the plastic retainer clips and quickly liberating the shifter. After a quick trial fit and small modification to the recommended installation and lubing all friction points, it installed in minutes and works great. The feel is so much more precise and will look better through the future bespoke open shift gate (to replicate the original types).
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Finished up my rear clam hinge and limit cables. Due to my “easy to remove” hinge pivot design, I needed to make a quick latch to keep the rear pivot support bar from inadvertently slipping out of the hinge beak when opening it to the vertical position. I wanted to keep with my aviation/racing heritage, so I utilized a pair of quick release safety pins to lock the latch into position. Once over center, I installed a pair of limit cables (12”) that are tethered to the clamshell rear tail support fiberglass structure. It worked out great to keep the clam nearly full vertical but yet keep the tail a good distance from any potential curb or parking spot concrete barrier (~5” clearance).
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I’m thinking about using a prop rod like Ford used on my late Mustang hoods, instead of cables. I’m a little concerned about a gust of wind blowing it shut.
Yea was thinking that I would carry an adjustable/folding prop just for shows and extended times it would be open. Mine is fairly heavy once over center so needed a positive heavy duty stop for any time I open it.
 
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