Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40

Devin

Supporter
Time to start getting the door gaps and panel lines perfected as well as finish up a few spots of backside reinforcing.
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Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Nice progress Devin!
Make sure you have all your door and clip gaskets in place while working your shut lines / gaps. They will change quite dramatically if done without the gaskets.
 
Did you decide on weather stripping yet? I'm not too crazy about how the bulb style that AP sent with my car functions.
 

Devin

Supporter
Did you decide on weather stripping yet? I'm not too crazy about how the bulb style that AP sent with my car functions.
Joe, I purchased a set of seals from an unnamed vendor and have fitted them this weekend to do a fit check with gap and sealing ability. I’m only partially satisfied but realize one of two things (or both) need to occur, 1) thicken up my door edges/lips 2) purchase a taller seal. Some areas appear to have adequate contact while others I can still see an obvious gap of 1/16-1/8 inch. I know McMaster-Carr has several varieties of seals and sizes but haven’t looked at other options just yet. Theses seals are IMO a little too short and the pinch weld is too narrow for my liking & application at this point.
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I am thinking I will need an upper roof support bracket to keep the roof sealed well and limit aerodynamic lift.

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I am looking to get the style of weather stripping you have to use for my doors. I think it won't bind on the door lip like the bulb style tends to do.
 

Devin

Supporter
Worked on the rear view mirror/dash cam this weekend. I found a great deal on a Wolfbox G930. It’s about the best & only option in a 10” mirror…as we all know that still is a lot of real estate to cover in the windscreen. After, searching extensively for a mount that would keep the mirror/screen as high and close to the roof as possible, I found a mount that would work that was designed for a 2004-07 Honda Fit. The other goal of mine was to keep the associated wiring and connections as inconspicuous as possible. Also due to the size of the 10” mirror as well as the fact that my steel roof support structure was offset 2” from centerline (running along the door threshold), I needed to mount the mirror off centered which seems to be ideal for best forward visibility. I’m currently making the dash cam to mirror mount bracket and will post a few pics of that when complete. Surprisingly the hardest part so far was fishing the lines through the roof cavity to the small access holes and the different bulky connectors combined with my earlier effort of spray insulation blocking some of the access along the way.
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Devin

Supporter
Was working this concurrently with the dash cam but finished up the upper door guide hardware today. I think things worked out rather well despite my bespoke inner door panels and my intentional inner roof support structure and door reinforcement plates in strategic places with these brackets in mind. Now I can finalize body work and door gaps.
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Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Take care with that as it will end up hitting your or someone else’s head.and will cause a deep cut.

I had similar on my car but they worked around the door shape and with no roll cage was higher! I still caught my head a few times……damn sore!

Ian
 

Devin

Supporter
Take care with that as it will end up hitting your or someone else’s head.and will cause a deep cut.

I had similar on my car but they worked around the door shape and with no roll cage was higher! I still caught my head a few times……damn sore!

Ian
Absolutely! Very rounded edges (may need just a bit more), profile doesn’t extend beyond the door edge and the roof bracket actually hugs the weatherstrip. Now if I can only keep from hitting the upper door roof LOL. It’s actually sharper right now than my newly added bracket.
 

Devin

Supporter
Any reason you went that route vs the ones that sit on top of the spider?
Two primary reasons…1) liked the cleaner roof look and 2) thought it would give me better door sealing with a “clamping” force. Also, I can imagine the tops of the door edges may get paint wear with vibration and/or lifting during operation & driving. To aid in the clean look, I’ve also decided against (for now) a roof mounted rear camera and Gurney bubble.

BTW, I will have a set of the eyebrow door guides that set on top available if interested PM me.
 

Devin

Supporter
Work proceeds on the center console and auxiliary panel in front of the shifter. The repurposed panel was acquired from one of my former offices and thought it would add to the bespoke aviation theme interior touches in the cockpit along with my push/pull circuit breakers and switches. It will function now as my air conditioning, defrost, fog light, electric master cutoff, and fire bottle T- handle controls. Since I have the space I will integrate two more air outlets.
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Was working this concurrently with the dash cam but finished up the upper door guide hardware today. I think things worked out rather well despite my bespoke inner door panels and my intentional inner roof support structure and door reinforcement plates in strategic places with these brackets in mind. Now I can finalize body work and door gaps.
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This is how AK Sportscars does it on their AK40. This is how I prefer it and will be doing mine that way. Considerably better I think than the eyebrows.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Work proceeds on the center console and auxiliary panel in front of the shifter. The repurposed panel was acquired from one of my former offices and thought it would add to the bespoke aviation theme interior touches in the cockpit along with my push/pull circuit breakers and switches. It will function now as my air conditioning, defrost, fog light, electric master cutoff, and fire bottle T- handle controls. Since I have the space I will integrate two more air outlets.
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How did the dash fit that I sold you?
 
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