AK SPORTS CAR GT40

bill kearley said:

Depending on your build , what is shown in post 123 could be an issue. The stock firing order for 289 and 302 is 15426378

Click to expand...

ok, here is what i have :
hope this clears up any miss-understanding from my previous post..

Jerry41 said:

you may be coorect and probably are..
However what i have seems to work ?
yes. it pushes water towards radiator and then to engine and sucks from the swirl pot.
IM sure there are going to be lots of people totally disagree with me but I have very good flow as seen with the rad cap off
Jerry

Click to expand...

Yep I was just following the manufacturers recommendation for mine, I presume that the main reason for having the pump after the rad is so that it will run cooler and therefore give it a longer life (ignoring the high pressure/low pressure argument), I do have a small concern for you though with your new placement I think you might still get problems in the pump over time with an air pocket here which looks almost impossible to bleed


The recommended configuration has the "out" at the top of the pump

156Chris said:

Yep I was just following the manufacturers recommendation for mine, I presume that the main reason for having the pump after the rad is so that it will run cooler and therefore give it a longer life (ignoring the high pressure/low pressure argument), I do have a small concern for you though with your new placement I think you might still get problems in the pump over time with an air pocket here which looks almost impossible to bleed

View attachment 151758
The recommended configuration has the "out" at the top of the pump

Click to expand...

i agree with you.
but my thoughts are that the flow of water is so great that any air will get swept along with the flow of water ?

Jerry41 said:

i agree with you.
but my thoughts are that the flow of water is so great that any air will get swept along with the flow of water ?

Click to expand...

Yep, hopefully as it's almost certainly a centrifugal pump it should get pulled through, fingers crossed

156Chris said:

Yep, hopefully as it's almost certainly a centrifugal pump it should get pulled through, fingers crossed

Click to expand...

When I did an engine run up a few weeks ago I had good cooling and good flow.
Jerry

just completed corner weights...
results attached if anyone is interested.
2 lots shown..
without driver and with driver.
all fluids filled and 4 gallons in each tank

Its been a while since i did an update ...so here goes..
All work now completed..yipeee ( that is to present for the IVA )
stripe added, front and rear clam stays added
mesh over rad fitted
tow points added
Fitted a couple fans to the oil rad as it seemed to be getting hot on tickover.. now stays steady at about 90 cent
'tin foiled' the whole of the rear clam.
'tin foiled' the 2 cooling fans ( boat bilge air fans ) that blow over the exhaust and engine.( melted one so it does get hot in here. )
fitted an FIA Plumbed in fire suppression ( electric operation using own internal battery, much easier to connect up than wire pull cables )
If used for racing the it requires 3 outlets to engine and 2 to cockpit.
I have decided to run all 5 to the engine.
using my short driveway i tested out the brakes to make sure i could get a lock up..not possible so assumed needed to be bedded in
Took it to local race track for a shakedown.... driving around paddock the brakes were total crap !!! but it did stop it ..
out on to track.. had to run with some extra rear mufflers to get below the 100 dB limit , also engine still not run in so no silly revs to be used ( limit it to 4k )
car runs in straight line, turns in to corner nicely, steering self centres and is not heavy....brakes are 'interesting' after a few laps they are still not stopping the car ...... investigate later....
engine runs nice and smooth and at 80 c
manage to get it wound up a bit on the straight and just touch 130 mph....
Ok , thats enough... lets bring it home....
car at home.... oil showing around the gearbox breather so have now put breather pipe on and routed to catch tank
major brake issue to sort out....
ended up changing the master cylinders from .75 to .625.. that improved it but was still unable to lock up wheels on my drive way.
changed out the pads to Green stuff green pads... wow... that worked....can now lock up all 4 wheels .
maybe that was all that was required was to change to a different pad ? ..
The pedal is a bit 'softer' and travels a bit more distance but this is expected with smaller master cylinders.
foam covered the internal plate that holds the roof down as kept hitting helmet on it.
Thats about it...
next milestone is the IVA.....
I'll update when that part is over...
some pictures attached..

And a few more pictures

Bravo Jerry,
I've just had a look through your photo's and here's a couple of observations. I presume you're borrowing a set of large (radiused) wheel nuts. The use of spinners used to be a Fail. I can't see clearly from the photo but have you fitted the required labels for master cylinders and bias bar.
Re your brake issue, you could do a voluntary MOT and see the brake figures on their rollers. It is also worth checking the hand brake. I'm not sure what you've fitted but if its like mine (small separate handbrake calipers) then the performance is crap. Whilst at the MOT place you can be assured it meets the emissions and have a print out. Also (to state the obvious) an MOT inspection may pick up on something small that you've overlooked or forgot to check.
I note you have a towing eye at the front ...... will that fail on the radius gauge test? I presume it's easy to remove ..... if it was me I'd take it off rather than drawing the inspectors eyes to it.
Hope all goes well and look forward to further updates.
Are you planning to visit Malvern ...... I'm thinking of going.
Best regards
Steve.

Steve Dean said:

Bravo Jerry,
I've just had a look through your photo's and here's a couple of observations. I presume you're borrowing a set of large (radiused) wheel nuts. The use of spinners used to be a Fail. I can't see clearly from the photo but have you fitted the required labels for master cylinders and bias bar.
Re your brake issue, you could do a voluntary MOT and see the brake figures on their rollers. It is also worth checking the hand brake. I'm not sure what you've fitted but if its like mine (small separate handbrake calipers) then the performance is crap. Whilst at the MOT place you can be assured it meets the emissions and have a print out. Also (to state the obvious) an MOT inspection may pick up on something small that you've overlooked or forgot to check.
I note you have a towing eye at the front ...... will that fail on the radius gauge test? I presume it's easy to remove ..... if it was me I'd take it off rather than drawing the inspectors eyes to it.
Hope all goes well and look forward to further updates.
Are you planning to visit Malvern ...... I'm thinking of going.
Best regards
Steve.

Click to expand...

Thanks Steve for being a second set of eyes...
Yes...nuts will be fitted instead of spinners ( borrowed from AK )
Labels fitted at bias bar and at resivoirs and bias locked and pinned.
park brake is electric to my own design using audi Q6 calipers.. when applied it stalls the engine if i try to pull away !
emmissions not a problem as i am 1972 block ( smoke check only )
front tow eye will be removed...( forgot that one !! )
did sound test 96 db at 4500... ( limit is 99db )
yes, considering doing a 'pre MOT' check .
nor sure Malvern...got a lot of house decorating to catch up on ( 3 years worth )
Thanks again Steve.
Jerry

Hi Jerry, I was thinking of using the Q5 parking brake (knowing Audi these are probably identical to the Q6) just wondering if you have more details/pictures of how you installed this?

156Chris said:

Hi Jerry, I was thinking of using the Q5 parking brake (knowing Audi these are probably identical to the Q6) just wondering if you have more details/pictures of how you installed this?

Click to expand...

have a look at post number 30 above
Sorry, just checked and i used A8 Calipers...

Rear Left Electric Brake Caliper w/ motor For Audi A8 S8 4E 2002-2010 4E0615403B​

Rear Right Electric Brake Caliper w/ motor For Audi A8 S8 4E 2002-2010 4E0615404​

and these pads:

For Audi A8 D3 4.2 Quattro Genuine Bosch Rear Brake Disc Pads Set​

and i have a video here:

I also had to machine the outer face as it rubbed on the inner part of the wheel rim, plus had to machine a bit extra to clear any lead weights stuck on.

I have finished the electronics and I rely on time rather than current reading.
If interested I can forward to you my circuit diag.
it uses two timers ( one for on time and one for off time ), 2 resistors ( to limit on current ) and numerous relays...
also incorporates requirement of IVA...
Jerry

Thanks Jerry, I thought I'd watched all your videos on YouTube so don't know how I missed that one. I'm going to use time and current values to determine when to remove power from the motor. Also probably add a speed interlock so the handbrake can't be turned on when driving (I know you've added a ardware interlock for this)

Nice work Jerry! Great report - thanks for sharing it!

Big-Foot said:

Nice work Jerry! Great report - thanks for sharing it!

Click to expand...

Thanks Randy

156Chris said:

Hi Jerry, I was thinking of using the Q5 parking brake (knowing Audi these are probably identical to the Q6) just wondering if you have more details/pictures of how you installed this?

Click to expand...

Hi Chris...

some figures that may help you on electric brake install...
I inserted a 0.47 ohm in the connection for brake on ( seperate r for left and right )
and no resistor for brake off
i obviously have resistance in my wiring loom !
when brake on is demanded i see initial 12v across the brake motor that drops to 2.5 volts when brake is fully applied ( motor stall )
and i see 0 volts rising to 4.5 volts across the .47 ohm resistor ( this gives a current flow of about 9 amps )
if you add up the voltages it comes to 7 volts..... so i am dropping about 5 volts across my loom and various relay contacts.
I have a timer set to run for 1.7 seconds when apply brake ( this gives a duration of about .5 second for the motor to be in stall condition.) and a seperate timer to run for 0.7 seconds when brake off is demanded.

hope this is of some use.
Jerry

Jerry41 said:

And a few more pictures

Click to expand...

Curious, where are your side windows?

Mark Duquette said:

Curious, where are your side windows?

Click to expand...

To pass IVA and get a registration number and legally drive on the road all 'screens' must meet a standard and be marked accordingly.
As side windows are of perspex material they are not compatible with standards.
Therefore car is presented for IVA with no side windows fitted and NO PROVISION for them to be fitted.
it is NOT a requirement of IVA to have side windows.
Jerry

need to ask will electric handbrake meet iva requirements?thought it had to be a mechanical set up.as like you jerry have been looking at electric calipers!

murfeey said:

need to ask will electric handbrake meet iva requirements?thought it had to be a mechanical set up.as like you jerry have been looking at electric calipers!

Click to expand...

Section 09c of IVA MANUAL :

14. With the ignition off, an electrically operated parking brake switch must be capable of applying the brake but must not be capable of releasing the brake. The switch must be protected from inadvertent use.

It is mechanical as the motor drives a treaded rod that applies mechanical pressure to the pad.

Jerry