A.J.'s SL-C build thread

MarkB · Aug 4, 2015

Very nice!

Scott R. · Aug 4, 2015

I see the tilton name on it, but can't seem to find the parts anywhere. Where did you find the mount itself?

StuM5 · Aug 4, 2015

Those sliding pedals are an awesome idea!
Just wondering how you will work them when the pedal box is in any position other than closest to the driver?
When braking won't you have to lift the heal of your foot onto that centre plate to apply the brake? Unless, you rest your foot on that higher plate in the first place and twist it to apply the accelerator. I think i would catch the base of that raised section with my heal.
sorry, just interested in the dynamics of it.

cheers
Stuart

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w

unctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w

oNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-AU</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w

ontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w

ontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->

Pow3r · Aug 4, 2015

I got the idea for the linear actuator from Troy on a 2" stoke actuator that he recommended for the park brake.

Linear Actuator - Heavy Duty 12 Volt 6" Stroke Amazon

The aluminum on top of the slider is 3/4" aluminum channel. The hold-downs to the floor behind the radiator are made from 2" steel channel. Both ends of the actuator have 1/4-20 1.75" screws/locknuts securing each end. The piece that attaches the actuator to the aluminum channel is made from 3/4" steel bar stock.

Screw sizes:
5/16-18 1" + locknuts for holddowns and to hold clevice to 3/4" Al channel 92185A583

3/4" Al channel to carriage bolts on slider: M4x0.7 3/4" (I think I cut them shorter)

Grommet: 9307K71

All materials without web links came from Home Depot

Currently the setup is being powered manually by holding the leads to a lawn mower battery and switch polarity to reverse direction.:idea: I'm going to worry about buttons/switches/wiring later. I have a sinking suspicion that it will require a call to Infinity Box to resolve how to make it work.

I don't expect that my heels will be close enough to the base of the assembly to get hung up on the corner of the plate. It all depends on my posture/ergonomics when driving. And I have NO idea how that is going to shake out. That's a big reason why I did the adjustable pedals because I really don't have any idea where I'm going to want them. Also, there is going to be sound deadening and carpet around the bracket on the floor, leaving the bracket exposed. This should come up close to flush with the bracket. I don't see it as being an issue.

Another point is I was very careful not to have any slop in the connections/linkages. I don't want it rattling or there to be any slop at all. So far, it seems I've accomplished that.

The actuator is intended to be for doors, and is a screw design. When it stops, it doesn't budge. Also, because of the tendancy of the slider to bind if you're not applying force directly to the edge of the plate, it doesn't require much force at all to keep the slider from moving. In fact, I have Ballistol on the slide surface to allow it to slide smoothly.

A.J.

Pow3r · Aug 4, 2015

Scott R. said:
I see the tilton name on it, but can't seem to find the parts anywhere. Where did you find the mount itself?

Are you referring to the sliding assembly? I got that from Fran.

A.J.

MADE_IN_AMERICA · Aug 4, 2015

I like the adjustable pedal idea but how does this effect clutch tension? seems like the moving it would loosen or tighten the clutch but I'm not familiar with the pedals in these cars so I'm assuming its different.

Pow3r · Aug 4, 2015

It appears to be all hydraulic so shouldn't be an issue. But I don't have my gearbox/slave cylinder yet so I can't confirm.

A.J.

Eric McClellan · Aug 4, 2015

MADE_IN_AMERICA said:
I like the adjustable pedal idea but how does this effect clutch tension? seems like the moving it would loosen or tighten the clutch but I'm not familiar with the pedals in these cars so I'm assuming its different.

It shouldn't have any effect because the clutch MC is attached to the pedal assembly.

trader · Aug 4, 2015

All the hose / lines seem to be steel braided so FLEX shouldn't be a problem.

MB · Aug 4, 2015

Pow3r said:
http://www.mcmaster.com/mv1437769867/#catalog/92185A583

Currently the setup is being powered manually by holding the leads to a lawn mower battery and switch polarity to reverse direction.:idea: I'm going to worry about buttons/switches/wiring later. I have a sinking suspicion that it will require a call to Infinity Box to resolve how to make it work.

Infinitybox "inMotion": Used to control components that have to move in both directions. (Up / Down / In / Out, etc.)

Mike

trader · Aug 4, 2015

All the hose / lines seem to be steel braided so FLEX shouldn't be a problem.

MB · Aug 4, 2015

Pow3r said:
http://www.mcmaster.com/mv1437769867/#catalog/92185A583

Currently the setup is being powered manually by holding the leads to a lawn mower battery and switch polarity to reverse direction.:idea: I'm going to worry about buttons/switches/wiring later. I have a sinking suspicion that it will require a call to Infinity Box to resolve how to make it work.

Infinitybox "inMotion": Used to control components that have to move in both directions. (Up / Down / In / Out, etc.)

Mike

Scott R. · Aug 4, 2015

A 3 position momentary rocker should work to operate. Like push up extends, push down retracts, middle is "off". Just don't know what would happen when you hit max piston travel. Try it and find out.

Mesa · Aug 4, 2015

IMO It is a real value to have the doors open all the way up like you show. Your modification seems to be indicating the gas struts are too short, or am I missing some aspect of the challenge?

I am liking the power actuation of the pedal set, seeing what you did I was all scheming adding that feature to my remotely adjustable pedals. Reality struck with the realization my swaybar is where your actuator is.

Nice work.

Pow3r · Aug 5, 2015

Thanks everyone for the compliments.

Mesa said:
IMO It is a real value to have the doors open all the way up like you show.

I agree. I felt it was critical.

Mesa said:
Your modification seems to be indicating the gas struts are too short, or am I missing some aspect of the challenge?

The length of the shocks is somewhat irrelevant to the swing of the doors. The shocks are as long as they are because they have to reach around the 45 degree corner on the chassis. If it weren't for that, the shocks could be shorter. The issue with the travel on the open position is the ball stud contacts the back side of the hinge inside the A post. The shock is not fully extended. You can't cut a clearance hole to allow it to pass through because not only is the hinge blocking it, so is the hinge bolt. My mod simply allows more travel. And keeps it all inside the A post

Mesa said:
I am liking the power actuation of the pedal set, seeing what you did I was all scheming adding that feature to my remotely adjustable pedals. Reality struck with the realization my swaybar is where your actuator is.

Uh oh, what you're telling me is if I decide to add sway bars that it could be an issue.... :cry:

A.J.

Pow3r · Aug 9, 2015

Scott R. said:
A 3 position momentary rocker should work to operate. Like push up extends, push down retracts, middle is "off". Just don't know what would happen when you hit max piston travel. Try it and find out.

At max piston travel, the thing just shuts off. It's very nice. I thought it was broken because it wasn't working, until I realized I needed to reverse polarity to make it go the other way. The problem is when it is at the pedal limit, but still is trying to finish it's stroke. It doesn't seem to have a current limit sensor. So it keeps trying to pull "home" and is pretty strong. That will need to be addressed.

I did find a module from Watson's Street Works that is polarity-reversing. It's $32. Looks like a relay, which might be all that it is. I'll need at least 2, one for the pedals and one for the park brake. The inMotion from Infinity Box is over $500 :shocked2: And it only includes 5 outputs. I don't see that being cost effective.

A.J.

Scott R. · Aug 9, 2015

A limit switch could work also. Put it so it interrupts the circuit once triggered at the desired point. One for each direction. Think you would have about $10 max into the switch, and two rocker type limit switches.

Lambo · Aug 10, 2015

Hi a few pages back you were having issues with storing the body, a member on another forum had the same problem and came up with this, he just wheeled it outside or into the adjacent car park space, I don't know it will work for you but its worth a look. If you had another garage space and a high enough ceiling maybe the wife could park her car under it.

AllanSLC · Aug 10, 2015

Pow3r said:
At max piston travel, the thing just shuts off. It's very nice. I thought it was broken because it wasn't working, until I realized I needed to reverse polarity to make it go the other way. The problem is when it is at the pedal limit, but still is trying to finish it's stroke. It doesn't seem to have a current limit sensor. So it keeps trying to pull "home" and is pretty strong. That will need to be addressed.

I did find a module from Watson's Street Works that is polarity-reversing. It's $32. Looks like a relay, which might be all that it is. I'll need at least 2, one for the pedals and one for the park brake. The inMotion from Infinity Box is over $500 :shocked2: And it only includes 5 outputs. I don't see that being cost effective.

A.J.

If you use a motor controller like this, [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SSYXW0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage]Amazon.com: AutoLoc MOTORCT2 2 Channel Motor Control Unit: Automotive[/ame]
you can easily program it to stop where you want and it automatically reverses.

Mesa · Aug 10, 2015

Swaybar-
Not really to worry AJ, my bars are custom made. As far as the street Superlite swaybar offerings, I don't know where they locate as I've never seen them.

A.J.'s SL-C build thread

Mark B.

Scott Rowland

Stu Coleman

Attachments

A.J. Schreder

A.J. Schreder

Henry

A.J. Schreder

Eric McClellan

Damian

Michael

Damian

Michael

Scott Rowland

Mesa

A.J. Schreder

A.J. Schreder

Scott Rowland

Graeme Stebbing

Attachments

Allan

Mesa

Similar threads