Adjusting SPF wheel bearings.
- Thread starter steve c
- Start date
Richard,
Could be the emergency brakes.
Suggest you check before you pull the axles out to adjust the wheel bearings...easy check as you just need to remove the rotors to check that all is OK in there.
BTW if you need to adjust the wheel bearings Olthoff/SPF has a great tooll (like a socket but, has a number of pins that mate with the adjustment collar after the locking ring is removed.
Have you checked the wheel bearings by inner and outer force at 6 and 12 and found loose?
If 3 and 9 could be the strut/upright bearings.
Stev P2125
Could be the emergency brakes.
Suggest you check before you pull the axles out to adjust the wheel bearings...easy check as you just need to remove the rotors to check that all is OK in there.
BTW if you need to adjust the wheel bearings Olthoff/SPF has a great tooll (like a socket but, has a number of pins that mate with the adjustment collar after the locking ring is removed.
Have you checked the wheel bearings by inner and outer force at 6 and 12 and found loose?
If 3 and 9 could be the strut/upright bearings.
Stev P2125
Kelly
Lifetime Supporter
I've been chasing down some noises from the corners as I had some knocking at wheel frequency. I adjusted the front wheel bearings and no more noise from the front but I still have some (occasionally nasty) noise from the rear. I’m sort of surprised because the fronts weren’t really that loose but it did produce a faint knocking at wheel rotation frequency either when I was braking and rolling to a stop or somewhat lesser extent when I would rock the steering wheel back and forth.
The rears make a similar noise that becomes more pronounced after some driving. Pretty much same symptom as front. When I brake and roll to a stop I get knock or thump at wheel frequency. When I take off from a standing stop while turning I get an occasional intermittent rubbing sound. The differential may be causing the inside wheel to drag and accentuating it a bit. I can get some movement from the rear wheels when I grab them at 6:00 and 12:00 and give them a shake. So I guess there is enough play in the wheel bearing to allow enough run out in the rotors to cause some erratic pad drag and make the wheel rattle in the bearings with feedback from the brake pads. The noises are not right and attention getting enough that I need to pull it apart and have a look. I removed the rear drum parking brakes so it’s definitely not them. They will not be going back on my car.
I see some discussion about “clunking” earlier in this thread that seems to suggest this could be attributed to straight versus slightly twisted splines on the spindle. Really? Slightly twisted splines? That’s a new one on me.
So is the clearance in the straight splines enough to creat noticable clunk?
Best,
Kelly
The rears make a similar noise that becomes more pronounced after some driving. Pretty much same symptom as front. When I brake and roll to a stop I get knock or thump at wheel frequency. When I take off from a standing stop while turning I get an occasional intermittent rubbing sound. The differential may be causing the inside wheel to drag and accentuating it a bit. I can get some movement from the rear wheels when I grab them at 6:00 and 12:00 and give them a shake. So I guess there is enough play in the wheel bearing to allow enough run out in the rotors to cause some erratic pad drag and make the wheel rattle in the bearings with feedback from the brake pads. The noises are not right and attention getting enough that I need to pull it apart and have a look. I removed the rear drum parking brakes so it’s definitely not them. They will not be going back on my car.
I see some discussion about “clunking” earlier in this thread that seems to suggest this could be attributed to straight versus slightly twisted splines on the spindle. Really? Slightly twisted splines? That’s a new one on me.
So is the clearance in the straight splines enough to creat noticable clunk?
Best,
Kelly
I'm guessing my clunk is an axle bearing as I've been through the emer brakes and I still have the clunk. I don't feel any movement but it must be it. Can anyone here tell me the thread pitch and diameter on the knock offs? If I can buy a ready made nut for both sides I'll weld a plate between them with a threaded hole for the bolt. Then again I think I could also use the knock off put on backwards and a standard three legged puller to push the stub axle out.
Free is aways better. I had this conversation with my son just this morning. If humans weren't so lazy we wouldn't have worked so hard to invent things to make our lives easer. We really are strange.
I'm on my first road trip with the car and it rained all the way from Coeur d'Alene to Boise (7 hour drive). To say the least I will need to re-asses my water intrusion defenses. I just hope my right shoe dries out enough to wear today. For me the car is more comfortable than I would have ever imagined. Great drive, Hwy 55 into Boise has lots of twisty roads. I've been told it's beautiful too but who was looking?
Free is aways better. I had this conversation with my son just this morning. If humans weren't so lazy we wouldn't have worked so hard to invent things to make our lives easer. We really are strange.
I'm on my first road trip with the car and it rained all the way from Coeur d'Alene to Boise (7 hour drive). To say the least I will need to re-asses my water intrusion defenses. I just hope my right shoe dries out enough to wear today. For me the car is more comfortable than I would have ever imagined. Great drive, Hwy 55 into Boise has lots of twisty roads. I've been told it's beautiful too but who was looking?
Rick, thanks for the offer but I plugged those holes many moons ago. I think I need to make a water trap for the fresh air intake. North Idaho almost never rains very hard, that is until the day of my first road trip. Not much got in considering how hard it rained. I also need to look into new door seals. That was mostly a few drops on the head and lap. There is a thread about that here somewhere. I got over 20MPG which I thought was pretty good considering the number of cars I passed.
Sealing the side windows is another thing on my to do list.
Sealing the side windows is another thing on my to do list.
Kirby I send you a PM.
OK guy's I'll admit I'm sometime not the sharpest knife in the drawer but I'm stumped on this one. Kirby was very nice and loan me his set of tools. Well today I broke the right side tool. I started by removing the axel nut with the 36mm socket Kirby supplied. Next I disconnected the CV joint at the wheel end and moved it out of the way. Being the right side it has left hand threads so it was tough keeping the tool from trying to undue itself. Using my ¾” drive ratchet I tightened the big bolt that is supposed to push the axel out. I thought I was in luck when I heard a pop but instead of moving the axle it popped the welds but only after bending the cross piece. :embarassed: Did I miss something, will my name go on the wall of shame and be shunned forever? Sorry Kirby I'll have Olthoff send you a new set.
OK guy's I'll admit I'm sometime not the sharpest knife in the drawer but I'm stumped on this one. Kirby was very nice and loan me his set of tools. Well today I broke the right side tool. I started by removing the axel nut with the 36mm socket Kirby supplied. Next I disconnected the CV joint at the wheel end and moved it out of the way. Being the right side it has left hand threads so it was tough keeping the tool from trying to undue itself. Using my ¾” drive ratchet I tightened the big bolt that is supposed to push the axel out. I thought I was in luck when I heard a pop but instead of moving the axle it popped the welds but only after bending the cross piece. :embarassed: Did I miss something, will my name go on the wall of shame and be shunned forever? Sorry Kirby I'll have Olthoff send you a new set.
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The axle splines are not twisted, they are at zero tolerance fit. I have a similar tool and use it with no problem. Hold the welded cross bar with a wrench while snugging the push bolt against the axle. If the axle does not move with moderate force, about 50 ft./lbs., slap the push bolt with a hammer to break the surface tension of the splines and proceed to push the axle out. Next time don't use a breaker bar and a pipe and crank it until it breaks.
Richard,
Got your PM and replied. You're doing it right, as far as I'm concerned. Very surprised that the axle was that tight...
The suggestion about whacking it a good one when it is tight is something to try. I'd use heat as the absolute last resort... you'll cook all the grease, maybe have a fire, and I think you'd need a LOT of heat to get it into the axle...
I hardly used any torque to get mine out. As I tightened the 'push bolt', the axle just started moving. I know that's not very helpful for your situation...
Regards,
Kirby
Got your PM and replied. You're doing it right, as far as I'm concerned. Very surprised that the axle was that tight...
The suggestion about whacking it a good one when it is tight is something to try. I'd use heat as the absolute last resort... you'll cook all the grease, maybe have a fire, and I think you'd need a LOT of heat to get it into the axle...
I hardly used any torque to get mine out. As I tightened the 'push bolt', the axle just started moving. I know that's not very helpful for your situation...
Regards,
Kirby
Well I finally got it apart. A little help from a really big hammer. Of course it only moves it the tiny amount of slop there is in the threads. Even after it started to move it took 130 ft/lbs to keep it moving. It looks like there is anti-seize on the splines so you got me why it's so tight.
I also had to fix the tool well enough to get the job done. The tool has beautiful welds but they are small and don't penetrate very deeply, they also didn't weld the area on the thread side of the cross piece the place that would take the most stress.
The tool is either hardened or made out of some tough stuff. If I need to "fix" the other side I'll clearance drill it all the way through and put a nut on the other side. I worried about breaking the tap on every hole.
I also had to fix the tool well enough to get the job done. The tool has beautiful welds but they are small and don't penetrate very deeply, they also didn't weld the area on the thread side of the cross piece the place that would take the most stress.
The tool is either hardened or made out of some tough stuff. If I need to "fix" the other side I'll clearance drill it all the way through and put a nut on the other side. I worried about breaking the tap on every hole.
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Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Is there any chance your predecessor used loctite on it?
IAE I'm really glad you're doing this and documenting it .....
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
I have to know: did you take the B17 picture yourself? And if so is that Nine-O-Nine?
Sorry for the thread drift guys.
Yes I took the picture two weekends ago. It was one of those bucket list things, kind of like the GT40. The name of the plane is Aluminum Overcast. They do a loop of the western US every year. As you can see the view from the bombardiers seat is unforgettable. I was awed by the view and humbled with the thought of the men who sat in so many of these seats. I didn't plan the shoot but it turned out to be one of my better pictures.
Here is a link to my Picasa site with more GT40 and B17 pictures.
https://picasaweb.google.com/rwoerz/20110606?authkey=Gv1sRgCIWbvbj65K6z1AE
Alan BTW I'll be doing another bucket list think next month. I'm driving the GT40 from north Idaho to southern California including San Diego. Highway 1 should be a great drive this time of year. Maybe we can meet up at the coffee thing at the Ford design center.
If anyone would like to join me I'll be leaving Coeur d'Alene on the 8th of July going down through Portland the Bay Area and then down Hwy 1 sometime around the 10th. It would be great to have some company along the way.
Yes I took the picture two weekends ago. It was one of those bucket list things, kind of like the GT40. The name of the plane is Aluminum Overcast. They do a loop of the western US every year. As you can see the view from the bombardiers seat is unforgettable. I was awed by the view and humbled with the thought of the men who sat in so many of these seats. I didn't plan the shoot but it turned out to be one of my better pictures.
Here is a link to my Picasa site with more GT40 and B17 pictures.
https://picasaweb.google.com/rwoerz/20110606?authkey=Gv1sRgCIWbvbj65K6z1AE
Alan BTW I'll be doing another bucket list think next month. I'm driving the GT40 from north Idaho to southern California including San Diego. Highway 1 should be a great drive this time of year. Maybe we can meet up at the coffee thing at the Ford design center.
If anyone would like to join me I'll be leaving Coeur d'Alene on the 8th of July going down through Portland the Bay Area and then down Hwy 1 sometime around the 10th. It would be great to have some company along the way.
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Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Richard -- see e-mail.
Not to pressure you or anything, but have you gotten to the adjustment part of this whole project? I'm just dying to know what happens after you get through the removal phase.
And one other thing -- have you been able to tell what made it so hard to pull off? Since there's the theory about twisted splines, and your's is much later than most of the rest of us, maybe you've got them... ??
Not to pressure you or anything, but have you gotten to the adjustment part of this whole project? I'm just dying to know what happens after you get through the removal phase.
And one other thing -- have you been able to tell what made it so hard to pull off? Since there's the theory about twisted splines, and your's is much later than most of the rest of us, maybe you've got them... ??
