Looks nice Douglas. Keep up the great work.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
AKSPORTSCARS #17
- Thread starter Blwngt40
- Start date
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
It actually surprises me that most space frame cars use one floor pan from side to side.
My DAX had a left and right side floor pan and the tunnel was open from below. Allowed easy access and also with air rushing past additional cooling of the coolant tubes.
Ian
My DAX had a left and right side floor pan and the tunnel was open from below. Allowed easy access and also with air rushing past additional cooling of the coolant tubes.
Ian
I have thought about making cutting out the area under the tunnel and making a removable panel under it. But I have not dedicated myself to that yet.
I also purchased little stainless steel louvered panels from a boat store I had planned on placing on the bottom of that area to allow airflow sort of in the tunnel. Also it would allow as a drainage point for any condensation that might occur on the A/C lines.
Neil
Supporter
How about cutting in a NACA duct at the front of the pan under the tunnel and then vent the rear? This should allow airflow to cool the tubes.
That would be better as it wouldn't protrude down.
Small millstone, finished up all the tunnel plumbing, pressure tested the welda and got everything in place. I did forget to take pictures... but oh well. I also got the main floor panel on and made some closeout panels for behind it since AK doesnt have ones that go there. Added some access panels to then as well so I can have multiple points to get to the suspension link rods and the engine mount hardware.
Please ignore my piles "o" imma sit this right here for now...in the background.
I dont remember posting it, I also haven't look back to see if I did.... but before I flipped the frame, I got my steering column all made up and pedals mounted. (Though in this pic the pedals aren't mounted. )
Please ignore my piles "o" imma sit this right here for now...in the background.
I dont remember posting it, I also haven't look back to see if I did.... but before I flipped the frame, I got my steering column all made up and pedals mounted. (Though in this pic the pedals aren't mounted. )
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Neil
Supporter
A nut plate is designed to be placed on the backside of the sheet metal so no joggle should be necessary or even desirable.
If i joggled the perimeter of the panel that the close out panel would go on, the close out would sit flush with the rest of everything. Has nothing to do with the nut plates. Basic sheet metal shaping for cleanliness and appearance. I just choose not to do it.
Neil
Supporter
OK, I think I understand. You want the panels to fit flush on the outside.
Neil, I know you have some sheet metal time. I made a crude drawing hoping to explain my original intent. But did not do. It has two methods we use commonly on aircraft structures. One is a splice doubler used to support the inspection/close out panel. The other is simply joggling the holed area to not require extra material or hardware to support the same outcome. Depending how long the nut plates take to arrive, supposed to be this week. I might get bored and end up doing the top version of the drawing to keep busy.
Neil
Supporter
I misinterpreted your first description- sorry.
Douglas
I used the top method to make it easier without formers and to keep a nice crisp joint line between panels.
Clayton
I'm actually doing that as I type this.. lol yeah I got bored.
Doug, the stuff from Summit, is that a coating or a adhesive backed material. I’m on my phone and can’t get a real good look at it. Either way, nice job !!!!
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Brian, it is an Epoxy Coating.
From summit:
Summit Racing SUM-UP500Q: Paint, Chassis Shield, Epoxy, Satin, Black, 1 Quart, Each - Toughen up your frame, firewall, engine compartment, suspension components, and other underbody areas with Summit Chassis Shield paint. This high-grade epoxy paint sticks to bare metal--no primer is required--providing superior protection against peeling, cracking, and scratching. Silicone additives help to prevent damage from impacts and abrasions, and a powerful combination of rust inhibitors neutralizes rust and helps to prevent future corrosion. It's free of lead, chromate, and isocyanates, and it's so tough that road salt and gasoline can't hurt it! Summit Chassis Shield paints must be used with Summit Chassis Shield catalyst (sold separately).
I am coat the rest of the closeout panels and interior once the rest of it is put in place.
From summit:
SUM-UP500Q
Summit Racing SUM-UP500Q: Paint, Chassis Shield, Epoxy, Satin, Black, 1 Quart, Each - Toughen up your frame, firewall, engine compartment, suspension components, and other underbody areas with Summit Chassis Shield paint. This high-grade epoxy paint sticks to bare metal--no primer is required--providing superior protection against peeling, cracking, and scratching. Silicone additives help to prevent damage from impacts and abrasions, and a powerful combination of rust inhibitors neutralizes rust and helps to prevent future corrosion. It's free of lead, chromate, and isocyanates, and it's so tough that road salt and gasoline can't hurt it! Summit Chassis Shield paints must be used with Summit Chassis Shield catalyst (sold separately).
I am coat the rest of the closeout panels and interior once the rest of it is put in place.
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Thanks Doug !!
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
