Aluminum fittings

[Rob]

Two fold question to the group.....
1) Aluminum fittings source: I recall Ron E. made a post a while back about AN fitting purchase from Jegs and how bloody expensive this stuff is, but I haven't seen any posts specific to "Best Source" for fittings. I too am now in the need of multiple fittings so thought I'd ask the group what is the general consensus for the best source. Where do YOU get YOUR fittings. My local speed shop has closed (couldn't compete with Summit..), so I so longer have a local source.

2) Fitting color: I really don't want blue or red fittings. I have seen the listings in Summit / Jegs for the "Endura" and "Nickel" finishes. Planning on one of these, but have never used. Seems like a "No Brainer" question, but thought I'd throw it out. Truly just looking for clean anodized..... are there any other "no color" options.

Thanks for your input......
Rob

 

[David Morton]

Rob, I used Earls when they had a speed shop just north of their HQ in Longbeach. I believe that they have been sold to Holley / the performance plumbing department is now in Gasoline Alley, Indy. and the phone number 317-241 0318. They were extremely helpful to me at the time and delivered completed hoses to LAX at zero cost. Well worth a call and pick their brains.
They've opened a speed shop here in the UK as well located in Silverstone.
Dave M

 

[JimmyMac]

I have some original fittings which are nickel finished.
Your choice is also limited to the makers/fitting spec as quite a few nickel finished fittings were discontinued in recent years since most buyers prefer the red/blue stuff these days.

 

[chuck smith]

I only use Aeroquip nickle plated fittings and have been very happy with them

 

[JayPSC]

Going for these in black, also do them in polished too.

JEGS ''AN'' Swivel Hose End Fittings - Black - JEGS
JEGS ''AN'' Swivel Hose End Fittings - Polished - JEGS

 

[Bill Musarra]

If you like to keep your cost down, you might try what I did. I went on Ebay and used whatever size fitting I was looking for(an-10 for example) and put that into the search function. It will keep the number of results managable. If you just use AN fittiings, you will get PAGES of all that is out there. Figure that your highest bid price is about 50-60% of the list price. Put that in and don't look at the bidding prices again until the auction is ended. It will list your bid just over the auction price for you and will move it up until no bid is higher than yours or your maximum price is met. That way if you are outbid, you won't be tempted to bid "a liitle higher".
There are about three things tha are really important. The first thing is to know your fittings. some will work with more than one type of hose(braided and starlite for example). If you have to have swivel, don't bid on it if it doesn't say swivel. The second thing that is important is to know your prices of the fittings. Keep a Jegs or Summit book handy. If they aren't available download from Aeroquip or Earl's, or from the warehouses and keep it handy. The third is to se how much their shipping is. That is where most of them make a little more money. Figure that into your bid. If you see something interesting and you THINK you might bid, click on the "Watch this item". It will keep the item in your Ebay page, and you can mull over it. Pay attention to who is selling it. Many times the same person will have mutiple items and will give a discount on shipping of multiple items. One other thing, go to that persons listing of other items, or their online store to see if they have more of the same or more of what you are looking for.
I got lucky with many purchases. An aeroquip exec. past away and they were liquidating his assests which included many aeroquip machines that make the hoses along with thousands and thousands of fittings and hoses. A lot were had for the opening bid. Sometimes they would offer as many as you wanted, so it was X's the price. They did that for about a month before wholesaling the whole lot.
I am doing mine with quick connects and all braided lines, oil, water, and fuel. I guess I saved a couple of hundred doing it that way. Those AN-20 fittings and hoses are real expensive. I will resell those things I got and decided not to use, or their were a bag of 8, and I only needed two or three.
I first laid out a rough drawing of what I wanted, then looked up the online prices, and I was amazed at how much the total cost was.

Bill

 

[Rob]

Gents,
Thanks for the feedback. All good info.

Just to share back.... I just got off the phone with Earls, I will be putting a list together this weekend and getting a quote. Didn't know I could buy direct. I will let everyone know the results.
R

 

[Bobski]

I would be carefull in using Russel or Earl type fittings as the angled ones are bonded where the swivel is and have been known of comming apart. I would be looking at Speedflow fitting as they're a one piece fitting with a swivel and are worth the extra cost.
Just my 2c.

Bob.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Dont forget to use the full/high flow fittings not the standard 90deg. ones....the high flow use a tube to make the turn instead of doing a tight 90 inside the fitting itself....

 

[Ron McCall]

Rob,

I bought some of my fittings on Ebay. I got some GREAT deals on some brand new fittings!
I also bought a bunch of fittings from Summit.They offer their own "generic" fittings. They come in black and look very good.They are a fraction of the cost of the name brand fittings.

 

[Randy V]

I use nothing but Aeroquip on all our racecars and have not yet had a fitting fail. I can't say the same for Russell and Earls fittings..

You pay a little more up front for the Aeroquip - but just remember one thing - You'll likely never see an Earls or Russell fitting on any part of an aircraft or military hardware. You will see Aeroquip there though....

 

[Sandy]

I like Aeroquip, and is my preference as well. The only other that I might try are Goodridge, but harder to find around here. Earl's does have a good selection of brake fittings as I recall. Ebay is a good source for fittings too, lots of nascar stuff, box-o-fittings, etc, just be cautious of the hose (i.e., chuck it unless non critical use planned). For the few bucks more easier to hit up Summit or Jegs and get what you need and be sure your equipment is in order with no surprises.

One question I have is on the Nickel plated, any chance of that stuff flaking of the ally? Is it that type of plating, I never have used them but was always worried about that aspect of them.

Sandy

 

[Joey Dean]

I used to fix nuclear reactors for a living. Aeroquip is all that was used. We have done up to 10,000 psi hydrostatic test's with aeroquip and never leaked a drop, let alone failed. The hoses were so stiff and hard at full pressure you could use them as pry bars.

 

[Rob]

Good info guys thanks.

To the point of fitting flow Fran made...wanted to share an item that shouldn't be overlooked..... the oil filter relocator. I pulled my block fitting out of the box today and was terribly disappointed with the condition of the ports. The restrictions were terrible. The piece was a Trans-Dapt brand. Anyway, just wanted to throw it out there....don't forget to look inside these things before mounting. Here are some before and after pics.......

I used a ball nosed carbide porting tool. Just watch the threads when your doing it.....

 

[Dave Wharran]

Aeromotive makes black anodized fittings which are nice.
Their ID is tapered from the threaded end toward the flare.
I used a combination of these and Aeroquip's nickle plated fittings. No problems.

The Aeromotive fittings can be ordered from Summit Racing.
As with the Aeroquip fittings, they are pricey.

Aeromotive, Inc.

Dave

 

[fostereast]

One thing to keep in mind, a lot of the inexpensive AN fittings are cheap knock-offs. Hot Rod(I think) did an article last year and compared the cheap AN fittings from Jegs's with real ones and showed some of the differences. Mt recollection was it is worthwhile ot get the real thing.

 

[Randy V]

Another good tip for putting your lines together -

Always use either a good heavy grease or anti-seize on the threads of the fittings. This will keep them from galling and will allow the fitting to be disconnected and reconnected numerous times.

Also - Make sure that you flush your lines carefully with a good solvent or kerosine. This will wash all manner of crud from the lines. I went to flush some -12 oil lines that I put together for a customer car. Was not getting good flow. Finally put my air hose in the end and blew out a couple of packing peanuts.. That would have done the engine a lot of good.. ((sigh))

 

[Rob]

Excellent point Randy.
Just last winter I ran across similar issue when running the fuel lines on my 67 Stang. Bent up a fuel delivery tube from stock I had in the shop. Did NOT blow out prior to install. Beat my head against the shop wall for an afternoon trying to determine why I had no fuel up to the filter. Disassembled, blue out line and little bug/critter junk flew across the shop. 3 hrs wasted! Won't happen again.

 

[Howard Jones]

One bit of warning. Russell's tube 90degree AN -6 are very weak. They break at the drop of the hat. I have found Earls on the other hand to be strong enough that I haven't broken any of them. I think Aeroquips are OK also.

I get mine at Summit. Their house brand straight hose "swivel seal" type are the cheapest I have found. I would not however use them for engine oil lines or their tube 45, 90 degree fitting.

Their house brand AN adapters such as AN-6 to 3/8 pipe are made well enough.

These fittings can really run up a budget. It is not however an area to get cheap. You get what you pay for. The main thing is to use good stuff for the important things like oil, and water lines.