Bill's CAV #193 Build - Canadian Made

Rick Muck- Mark IV

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#21
Wood stove making heat in the shop. Brake lines all run, pedal asy. in. Spent half the day on my head. Shocks in,wheel alignment, home made distributor in and timed. A little more work to do on the dash and hope to install it for the last time. Still looking for nostril hinges, cooling system all plumbed. I have a question about insulation under rear clam. What is the best mat type "pad" I can put on the fiberglass above the headers? Seat tracks installed on the seats but I see a big pain mounting them to the floor, no room for fingers.
Bill,

Under the rear calm we use the LizardSkin sprayable ceramic. Works well and no issues with it falling off. Many of the stick-on insulations get loose when warm. As long as you prep and clean the surface we have never had the LizardSkin peel or fall off. Also can be sprayed into convoluted areas that matting will not work in like the recess directly above the exhaust megaphones.
 
#22
Bill, regarding installing seat and track to the floor, my #40 CAV has bolts welded to the inside of the tracks that penetrate through the floor. Washers that look like a bell fit over the protruding threads and a nut nestles inside the washer. You need to trim the excess shaft extending past the washer to avoid bottoming and/or scrapping. Still is fun to remove the seats due the closeness of the car to the ground. Jacking the car or having it on a lift makes it very easy.
 

Bill Kearley

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GT40s Supporter
#23
Thank you Rick, I'll find some and use it. As far as the seat tracks go Tom, that makes me think a bit farther and would be a detour from the language Jane would hear coming from the shop. Some oval socket head bolts installed from the underside with fender washers maybe.
Some more pics of what some may call progress. I'm not happy with the look of the mess of brake lines around the master and regulator but it will work, just have to secure or dampen the lines a bit from any vibration, did't have the tools ness to make a better job.
 

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Bill Kearley

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GT40s Supporter
#25
After a good look around Walt, I think my rack is VW. Is it the same as yours? Do you have wheel contact with water lines? I ordered 14 mil 2 part collars, da wrong size, took the boot of and found a larger dia. to deal with.
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#27
Just found some older pics near start of build. Had to chop up the Kennedy to lower the engine and still have a very tight fit at clam and exhaust. And no, the booster was just lets see how it didn't fit.
 

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Bill Kearley

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#28
Would any one have pics of there trans mount? I have an RBT with cable shift CNC. A pain in the ass to work the pas side with out it looking ugly. I have a plate sitting on Freightliner rad mount rubbers that fit and work nice on the left only.
 

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Bill Kearley

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#29
Throttle cable in and adjusted, took a bit of work to get right. Not much of a pedal assembly to work with. I'm ready to bleed the clutch and brakes, fuel lines in and ready to load the coolant, ( just water for the first test run ) Most of the day was spent on the rear clam. After a lot time trying to fit things up with the fire wall that is a way out of square, out came the tape measure only to find out the entire clam is all over the map and may not fit with out a lot of body work. not much fun after I payed Gulf Oil a fee to have a 1075 certificate on top of the cost of the paint job. I said lets not get to excited untill I fit the rear clam to the spider. The rear clam is bad but it may marry up to the also twisted spider. O ya I love where I live. I got a call, my CV joint bolts from ARP made it to Mopac Calgary Alberta today but for me to get my hands on them the freight is almost as much the bolts.
 
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Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#32
Got some more bits yesterday, Just put a log on the fire and going to get at er. I have the A/C lines bent over the rad and will have to go 40 miles to the next town to get the rubber hose ends pressed on. ugly so no pics. Will test fit the trans mount today and have it power coated next week. A few more details to take care of and then get to work on the the interior then with a lot of luck fit the body.
It isn't to bad but If anybody has a cure for a heavy throttle ( Borla 8 stack ) please let me Know.
 

Rick Merz

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Lifetime Supporter
#34
I have the Borla 8 stack (58mm version) and it does take a heavy foot to operate but you get used to it. I think that Borla put some pretty stiff springs in the butterfly shafts.
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#36
Rearranged a little wiring today as well as work on the shifter cables to get a better adjustment. My shifter has limited travel. Having a bit of fun deciding the best way to have the AC lines come of the comp. I don't like the 90' fitting and would like to tweek the 135' but afraid I may ruin it. Cooling system ready to fill. CV joint bolts should show up soon, I hope, postal strike a pain in the ass. Played with the steering and will require a 5/16 spacer at each end of the rack to stop tire contact with the coolant lines.
 

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Bill Kearley

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#37
Cold wet day today. Pot of coffee on the wood stove. A good day to finish the trans mount and make a muffler support.
It could be a productive day if I don't waste half the day at my fabricator/neighbour/ buddy's place welding up the muffler support.
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#38
All day fitting spider and doors. I mus say I was very concerned but things came together. I'll fine tune then fit the latches tomorrow, take off the spider and install some kind of headliner and with a bit of luck install spider for the last time.
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#40
Thanks Walt, I was quite shocked that it came together the way it did. When I first put the rear clam on and aligned it with the twisted fire wall and had 2 inches of left rear tire outside the fiberglass I thought I was in for a battle. The tape measure shows a lot problems with the fiberglass layup of the clam. The rear wheel alignment is square with the tub at the moment and will have to move the L rear in about 1/4 inch and the R rear out about 1/4. don't think I'll notice anything in the handling. The roof part of the doors is riding about 1/8 inch high on the weather strip but I don't have the guide plates in yet, should be a nice fit when done. Yesterday I had some parts I made dropped of in Terrace for power coating, trans mount, muffler support and a bracket for the receiver dryer. One brain storm I will have to endure is how to run the AC lines forward. The side channels are full and little ore no room in the center past the shifter and park brake.
 
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