Bill's CAV #193 Build - Canadian Made

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#41
Another good day. Body fits pretty dam good when seen at 200 plus. Power coating done, will pick up Friday. Other half away for the weekend, I see progress coming on. The only fiberglass that needs attention is the R/F door or front clip, one or the other. Still debating what to do about #7 exhaust pipe, all most touching.
 

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#43
Very nice looking car Bill. Regarding #7, I too faced this same issue on my CAV. An option (I hope its still available) might come from none other then Holman Moody. I recall them offering a "Heat Shield" that might help you. http://www.holmanmoody.com/Heat.html

The problem might exasperate your issue though in that it will take up more space that might not exist.
 
#44
Throttle cable in and adjusted, took a bit of work to get right. Not much of a pedal assembly to work with. I'm ready to bleed the clutch and brakes, fuel lines in and ready to load the coolant, ( just water for the first test run ) Most of the day was spent on the rear clam. After a lot time trying to fit things up with the fire wall that is a way out of square, out came the tape measure only to find out the entire clam is all over the map and may not fit with out a lot of body work. not much fun after I payed Gulf Oil a fee to have a 1075 certificate on top of the cost of the paint job. I said lets not get to excited untill I fit the rear clam to the spider. The rear clam is bad but it may marry up to the also twisted spider. O ya I love where I live. I got a call, my CV joint bolts from ARP made it to Mopac Calgary Alberta today but for me to get my hands on them the freight is almost as much the bolts.
You should of called your brother!!!!!!
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#45
Can any one help me re bubble strip. The packaging scraps I got from CAV are softer and work nice. The new stuff I got from Mc Master Carr fits nice but the bubble is to firm.
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#46
Up date time, not a bad few days. Played with the body for another day, rotate the entire body clockwise, looked at from above, to help open the gap at the front of the passenger door. Got it a bit better. worked the front edge of dash to fit the profile under spider, fit and drill for nutserts in cowl cover to mount the spider. I have about a 7/8 air gap under dash to cowl cover so a bit of foam tape creates a plenum to direct defrost air. Got a start on a dash pad, waiting for glue and padding. Angle the speedo with 3 inch ABS sewer pipe, man that worked nice. Did the same idea with aluminum to hold the wiper motor in place. Still needs a torque arm just in case I have to turn it on. Not sure it was necessary but I now have SFI certified door straps. In between, that white stuff fell from the sky and made me change tires and help the boss in the house with electrics so I could get fed.
 

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Larry L.

Member
Lifetime Supporter
#47
'Word of caution, if I may, Bill. You r-e-a-l-l-y need a much taller ladder when decorating that tree....either that or you need a shorter tree! 'Waaaaay too risky 'leaning over' to do this-or-that while standing anywhere near the top of the ladder you're using in that photo...even if someone is holding the ladder while you're up there.

Don't ask me how I know...



GOPR0575.JPG
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#49
A little help needed, The side rails are full of coolant lines and wire, and I have no room to run AC lines to the forward. Short of building a taller center tunnel I'm out of ideas. No. 7 exhaust pipe is touching the clam and I was going to get into some fiberglass work till WALT suggested using a hood scoop of sorts that fits under the window, thanks Walt. some fiberglass will get cut out for other reasons as well. The opening around the injectors is an inch of center. Do I open things up or just allow for the exhaust clearance?
 

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Rick Muck- Mark IV

Member
GT40s Sponsor
#51
Bill,

I thought CAV put the condenser in the rear on the left side feed by the scoop? All the pictures I have seen show all that so you would only need room for the lines to the evaporator up front.
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#53
Hi Rick. I just built all the parts to mount the condenser and rad using my own ideas. The dryer is already mounted up front and a short line to the evaporator made. I didn't think of placing the condenser any where else. Would it be cool enough in the rear? It would be a lot of work to change. I think I'll be making my own tunnel to fit the lines.. Three inch abs sewer pipe worked out well for an angle bezel since I couldn't find one for a 3 3/8" gauge.
 

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Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#54
Door latches installed and outside release. I want to use something other than the typical, that's me. A plan to use a cable from new latch linkage i made will enter the door pocket to a lever. It's probably been done and i'm wanting it to look nice, any on have pics of what they have done?
 
#56
Bill, the build looks great and love the Blue and Orange livery. if it is not too much trouble, wondering how far from the front fire wall you power brake booster and master cylinder come out.
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#57
Joel, 11 inches will give you room. The tape shows about 10 3/4 in. about 272 mm. I just looked at the pic, It's quite distorted. Keep in mind, you will want to slide the master forward in order to re and re. The parts I used are early 80s Volkswagen Vanagon parts.
 

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Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#58
Thanks Neil, that's a nice looking handle. It could be used for other aps. as well,like pulling from two sides into center. ( rear clam release ? )
 

Bill Kearley

Member
GT40s Supporter
#59
A lot of time and looking at the same problem on other builds. The fuel filler pipe! I think I will have to modify the fuel cap assemblies to accept a smaller diameter pipe to gain room for the first turn rearward R and down to the neck on the tanks. Two inch cam-lok welded into the id of the cap asy. Then I will have to find a 2 in. tube/pipe that is fuel friendly with a 5 1/4 inch offset, I'd like to have one clamp at the top and one at the bottom only. Constructive help welcome, Ugly but it gave me the numbers. But of course to get it right I had to use R/H spinner on the left and L/H on the right, I know Walt understands me.
 

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#60
Joel, 11 inches will give you room. The tape shows about 10 3/4 in. about 272 mm. I just looked at the pic, It's quite distorted. Keep in mind, you will want to slide the master forward in order to re and re. The parts I used are early 80s Volkswagen Vanagon parts.
Thanks Bill, appreciate the information.
 
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