Brett's RS GTD

Well, it's been a long time, but hopefully I can get back to putting the engine together over Easter. Finally got the rotating assembly back from the balancers. To put in conext a lot of the wait has been down to me, he's only had it under 2 weeks. If you need some bits balancing, then can recommend Alex MacFadzean.

 
Finally got some forward movement again today :)

Started back on the re-build of the engine. However, I've hit a problem. I seem to have mislaid the washer that goes on the oil pump shaft. Does anyone know where you can source one please, or the size I should be looking for? Munroe's book says it is a Tinnerman washer?





 
Im almost scared to ask... why do 2 pistons have an arrow rearward and the other 2 fwd.... plus some would consider that the right bank with pistons marked 'L'?, ... and did you pressure test the block after your 'oops' repair.
 

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I knew someone would pick up on that :) Arrows are from the balancer, it was him marking up to make sure that he had pistons and rods the right way round. Before you ask. To make sure, I makred a divided box up with numbered areas and Front, back, Damper, Flywheel to make sure they understood where it all went. Yes, my left is some peoples' right in this case. It was just the way I did it at the time.

No, sadly not had time to test. I am going to have to take a some faith. You can see the JB Weld now over the patch then braze repair.

Brett
 

Randy V

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As long as that block was cleaner than a hound's tooth, you have no worries about the JB Weld.. I've done similar things with no negative effects.
 
I knew someone would pick up on that :) Arrows are from the balancer, it was him marking up to make sure that he had pistons and rods the right way round. Before you ask. To make sure, I makred a divided box up with numbered areas and Front, back, Damper, Flywheel to make sure they understood where it all went. Yes, my left is some peoples' right in this case. It was just the way I did it at the time.

Brett
That answer does not compute... to make it simple, on a Small Block Ford the inlet valve pocket on the piston crown should be on the same side of the rod Big End with the bevel and bearing insert offset to clear the fillet radius of the crankshaft journal. If you have pistons with offset pin it gets a bit more tricky with pistons for left or right bank as well.
 
Answer does compute, just not typing it that well. Fillets in big ends are all correct. the guy just marked them up with an arrow pointing one way and then put corresponding arrow on the rod to make sure he did not get them the wrong way round, visual matching so to speak.

Unless of course I am being an idiot again. My simple view: Pistons are installed as per Keith Black install instructions, big ends are correct way round
 
So small update. Managed to get the engine back in and fill with coolant for pressure test. Good and bad news

Good news is that the previous leaks are fixed

Bad news. Have bad seal on the intake manifold, but only show up when spraying with foamy water; also, seem to have some weeping coming from the bolt that holds the alternator bracket.

So it looks like I am going to have to take them off to have a look/replace gaskets
 
Excuses in any random order: Kids, Building work, business work, funds

Probably another 11 at the rate I am going... Maybe a retirement present to myself LOL
 
It's not the getting in.............it's the getting out again that killed me!
Though, still missing it like hell.
Need to win the lottery, get a Superformance and a private personal physio!
Good luck though Brett....It's definitely worth it.
Cheers,
Geoff.
 
well had to pull the engine again.

As I undid everything, this happened, though I had seen a drip when pressurising, but I though it may have been a bad seal on the gasket.



It appears not. On closer inspection, it seems the hole is no longer blind and goes straight through to the coolant passages.



Is there anything that I can do apart for put sealant on the threads to seal it up?
 

Randy V

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On SBF engines, I use liquid teflon thread sealant on all the bolts that go into the block with the exception of motor mount and bellhousing bolts..
 
On SBF engines, I use liquid teflon thread sealant on all the bolts that go into the block with the exception of motor mount and bellhousing bolts..
I can understand that in 5.0 blocks etc, but all earlier 221/260/289/302/351 blocks are all blind in the block, no point in sealant. Perhaps Randy is getting confused with those other Bow Tie things he occasionally plays with. Bretts 'Mexico' block has obviously had an 'oops' in a previous life and a possibly frozen bolt drilled out and the hole drilled thru to water jacket during the repair process.
Clean the threaded hole in block, you could use a long 5/16 unc stud if your happy to have to remove the pan prior to timing cover at o'haul time or a long bolt with flat sealing washer type head with liberal sealant coating to fix. Pic is upside down for those that might be trying to work out the bolt position.
 

Randy V

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Sorry to disagree Jack, but the older 351w lower head bolts have water on the other side (last one I worked on was an 84 block), and the bottom 4 timing cover bolts (two on each side) as well as the thru bolts on the water pump all hit water on that particular block.
The 5.0 is the same way. Can't speak to the earlier 221/260/289 as I cannot remember for sure.
Even though the top headbolts are generally blind, I have gotten into the practice of using the sealant on those as well in order to get consistent torque values.

Also, make sure you have sealant on those 6 flywheel bolts Brett... Their's oil on the inside of them...
 
Thanks guys. Yes, already have sealant on the flywheel bolts, well pipe threadlocker.

Going to have to go for the sealant approach, as you can see from the first picture, it is the alternator mount that has a long socket cap bolt. Now need to measure it to see how far into the block it goes.

All things being equal, I'm getting quite quick now pulling the engine...
 
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