Brett's RS GTD

Thanks to Frank for getting me through a little wobble yesterday when.... the timing chain did not seal in a different place, grr. I won't be buying Victor Reinz gaskets again. The Fel-Pro ones hadn't had that problem.

Also had to tap ones of the holes out to a larger size, as despite re-tapping after years it appears it just turns now and that could have attributed to it. It's left quite a small area between the bolt hole and the water pump inlet area, but hopefully will be OK.

Frank has suggested doing away with the paper gaskets and sealing with something called 3 Bond, so that's winging it's way to me now...
 
Well the pain and prostration to the god of perseverance continues.

I can't get the pump area to seal and it shows when I put it under pressure (16psi). Initially I thought this was down to the fact of the need to retap as mentioned above. This may have left not enough material between the pump face and the plate




I've tried sealing with Three Bond twice and it appears to be leaking at the bottom part of the pump.

So I think I have 2 options now:
1 - New Pump, but I have also removed the impellor and would have to do so again. Would also need to put a helicoil into the larger tapped hole
2 - Make up (with help) something like Andy Green did here: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=52576&d=1303232650
 
Well the pain and prostration to the god of perseverance continues.

I can't get the pump area to seal and it shows when I put it under pressure (16psi). Initially I thought this was down to the fact of the need to retap as mentioned above. This may have left not enough material between the pump face and the plate




I've tried sealing with Three Bond twice and it appears to be leaking at the bottom part of the pump.

So I think I have 2 options now:
1 - New Pump, but I have also removed the impellor and would have to do so again. Would also need to put a helicoil into the larger tapped hole
2 - Make up (with help) something like Andy Green did here: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=52576&d=1303232650
1.There is a 'Catch 22' for all you folk who disable the ford impeller and water pump as Brett has done here, since you no longer have the impeller to generate suction at the pump inlet and heater/thermostat bypass returns your electric pump will now push coolant out of both those 5/8" heater hose fittings in the opposite direction to the correct flow.

2.In Bretts case he could get the pump housing machined/skimmed on a surface grinder and fabricate a replacement sandwich plate out of flat 1/8" alloy since there is no requirement for impeller clearance to fix his current 'leak', but the situation in '1' above still needs to be addressed.
 
I think that I am going to go the new pump route, but not take the impellor out (it will be disabled though, so I will see how that goes)

Real Steel do a an Airtex 1028H that is aluminium, so would also give a weight saving over the current. I'll need to thread repair the timing cover too, though now I am thinking that I may have made the hole size too big for thread repair.
 
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So to give a little more detail, as I had a 10mm instead of 3/8 bolt I re-tapped the hole to that.

I think that I may not be able to helicoil it, as the drill size for them appears to be 8.3mm and then you tap. from there. I assume that this will not work now.

Only other option maybe to get an EZ Lok Thin Wall insert that uses a 7/16 tap and then goes in.

Any thoughts anyone please? Thanks
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
I'm now sure what the presense of an impellor will make in sealing the system as you've yet to run it and are only pressure testing. There are multiple gaskets for Ford timing chain covers, water pumps and rear water pump cover. Getting the right ones can always be a little tricky.
Have you used sealant on the bolts after cleaning all the threads?
Here is how I handled my waterpump as I converted it to a water manifold and am running the heater hoses off of the transfer tubing in the front of the car.
It has not yet been pressure tested, but I am not worried about it at this point.
GT-Forty.com
 
I am literally at the end of my tether now.

New water pump, sealed up with gaskets and Ultra Copper and this. Really not sure where to go from here, maybe take off gaskets and try Three Bond.



 
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Yes there is, I am not sure whether it is coming from the pump side or timing cover die though.

Test was done by pumping the system up to 16psi
 
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The timing cover to plate joint only needs to seal around the two coolant entry holes thru to the block, the pump to plate side must seal entirely around the pump. There are two bolts at bottom rear side of pump/plate that hold and seal the plate to the pump at that point, sometimes if the wrong bolts are used at that point they will foul on the timing cover and prevent a proper seal.

Gaskets...

The one between plate and front timing cover must have provision to entirely circle those coolant entry passages to the block.
The other should match the whole machined face of the water pump casting.

I hope your not refitting the engine / trans to the car each time, this sort of testing can be done out on the engine stand or floor.
 
Thanks Jac,
Yes using the low head bolts as supplied with the pump.

No I am not taking the engine out, but am doing it in situ.

Have tried resealing again, but taken out the paper gaskets. I think if this does not work then I may look at a new timing cover, as this one has required some bolt hole retapping.
 
So long time between updates and apologies, some people may have noticed that I have not been on the forum much recently due to work commitments - launching Fords is hard work :D

Sadly despite new timing cover, water pump and seals; the pressure test failed again at the new timing cover and pump. SO either I am doing something majorly wrong, or something is wrong.

Either way, the engine has to come out (again). It means I need to borrow thew crane from Nick again and then I have spoken to Frank who is going to take a joint look at it for me, which means getting it down to Hailsham. That's trying to fit it in with all the other pressures at the moment (it took me 8 weeks to fit the new timing cover...)

Brett
 

NickD

Supporter
So long time between updates and apologies, some people may have noticed that I have not been on the forum much recently due to work commitments - launching Fords is hard work :D

Sadly despite new timing cover, water pump and seals; the pressure test failed again at the new timing cover and pump. SO either I am doing something majorly wrong, or something is wrong.

Either way, the engine has to come out (again). It means I need to borrow thew crane from Nick again and then I have spoken to Frank who is going to take a joint look at it for me, which means getting it down to Hailsham. That's trying to fit it in with all the other pressures at the moment (it took me 8 weeks to fit the new timing cover...)

Brett
Hang in there bud, I'm sure you'll get there. You couldn't be doing worse than me ;-(
 
Well a lot of people may have noticed that I have not been so active lately; I've had to take some time away for personal reasons, but hopefully I'll get back on the road to trying to get it finished...

First step, try and get an engine that works... I've admitted that I need help and so I packed it off earlier this week and fully expect to be told that I have messed it up lol
 

Keith

Moderator
You'll get there Brett. We're all rooting for you. Just imagine the feeling when it's gone & dusted, IVA approved and you're driving it home!

One more heave! :)
 
Ford Rangers are fab motors, I've got one too :thumbsup: Only car you can stick a tonne of stuff in the back, transported engines loads of times.

Stick with it, bite size chunks, each step is a step closer to finishing.
 
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