CamT's build thread

I plan to document my SLC build in as much detail as I can muster. Similar to a few others, I'm planning to create a more detailed build site elsewhere and link or pull info here to keep it more concise (I tend to ramble). Will post more info in the coming days! is where it'll live for now.
I'm running the 525hp cam, Cam!

I resisted getting a yellow car; thought it might be too confusing to have 2 Cams with yellow SLCs.
JBurer - I've got $10 on it!

I'll update my blog post with more configuration updates as they occur but here's where I'm at so far.

My build configuration:

Factory options as part of base kit:

- Race tail option
- Orange gel coat
- Door mounted side mirrors
- One-piece side windows
- CF10 wheels in gunmetal gray (19″F/20″R)
- Dropped floor pan
- KOSO dash display [this was the least ugly of the dash options but I won’t be using this]

Additional options:

- Carbon fiber rear wing
- Carbon fiber rear window louvers/vents
- Carbon fiber interior tub
- Carbon fiber front fender vents
- A-pillar covers (fiberglass)
- Front lift kit
- Street splitter w/optional tunnels
- Inner fender panel kit
- Adjustable pedal assembly
- Graziano transaxle accessory kit (clutch, flywheel, starter, etc) [In hindsight I wish I had sourced these components myself, the SPEC clutch has replaceable friction elements if your clutch wears out whereas the factory option does not. Hopefully I never wear out my clutch!]
- GM LS engine front dress kit
- Graziano transmission (V8) [This is used in both the Audi R8 and the Lamborghini Gallardo. These cars use high-revving engines and the internal gears are configured for high RPM operation. However, I believe the gear ratios are inappropriate for a light street car using a lower revving American V8 so I sourced a set of drop gears to re-gear the transmission. Originally I was told this was an easy mod; now that I’ve seen a transmission updated with these gears I now know this is not true! This is a significant R&R of the trans internals and requires clearancing of the case internals.]


- GM LS376/525hp crate motor [I sourced this from Pace Performance, they start with a GM LS3 430hp motor and update the cam to the 525hp version. It’s identical to the GM 525hp crate motor and ~$1k cheaper. Warranty is 1 year instead of 2.]
- GM Performance engine controller kit/ECU.
- Improved Racing LS3 C6 oil pan w/scraper & baffle kit [The GM crate motors ship with the Camaro style oil pan which is too deep for the SLC and exceeds the lower envelope of the chassis, sacrificing ground clearance. The C6 version is less tall and the scraper/baffle kit will help combat oil starvation/pressure issues these engines are notorious for. I plan to run it in this configuration but may opt to add an Accusump at a later time if needed.]
- Earl’s 25-row stacked plate coolers [1 for trans and 1 for engine oil.]


- Tillett B5 carbon fiber seats [I originally ordered the pre-2016 seats which feature CF on both the front and rear shells but I received the 2016 seats which have a fiberglass rear half-shell. This apparently makes the seat lighter and stiffer but I wanted the all-carbon option. After seeing the carbon interior tub I think this may have inadvertently been better as there may have been TOO much carbon fiber (is there such a thing? Maybe.)]
- AIM MXS Strada dash [Aesthetically much nicer and better laid out than the KOSO or Digidash options offered by the factory. The Strada version is a slightly stripped down version of the MXS/MXG except does not have data recording capability and non-AMP connectors. Not a big deal for my intended application.]
- Alpine ILX-007 radio [I’ve gotten heat from some folks for putting a radio into the SLC, bite me��. Going with the Alpine unit as it’s slim and has Apple Car Play compatibility. Haven’t purchased this yet as I’m hoping a more updated version will be released before I get to this point in the build.]
- Blackvue 650s 2ch (truck) dash cam [Due to a recent fender bender I’ve got PTSD about getting into accidents with people and not having evidence of what actually occurred. Every vehicle I own from now on will have a dash cam. The truck option has a rear camera which is water/weather resistant and meant to be secured to an exposed location. I plan to install this in the engine compartment which may get wet during a car wash or if I get caught out in the rain.]

Other stuff

- Second Skin Damplifier Pro CLD (constrained layer damper) [I’ll be using patches of these on chassis and body panels to dampen vibrations which may cause noise. This is step 1 of the noise suppression plan. Highly recommend contacting Second Skin directly to see if they have any B stock available at a significantly reduced price.]
- Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro [I’ll be using sheets of these to absorb and block any noise not knocked out by the Damplifier Pro. This is step 2 of the noise suppression plan.]
- Carpeting [Areas of the interior not covered by the CF tub will get carpeting or some other fabric cover to help suppress sound. This is step 3 of the noise suppression plan.]
- Second Skin Thermal Block [Many builders use Lava Mat for heat deflection/barrier purposes. This stuff is relatively thin but has a gold reflective surface. This helps with radiant heating but the convective and conduction properties of this option don’t really seem to be ideal for the application. The Thermal Block is a thicker mat and has a silver reflective surface. I believe this will be a more effective thermal barrier, but I do lose the bling factor. I’ve seen gold foil available on Ebay which I may use as a top layer to get that bling factor back ;)] Black Friday deals at Second Skin were really good!
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I've owed an update for a few days now so I'll start with the obligatory receiving pictures.

The orange gel coat on this car blew me away and I now understand why some people just leave it as is. Straight out of the mold this car looks so good and this color in particular is eye catching. Not much to say about the car that hasn't been said, it looks like it's going 100mph standing still. I'm planning to go with a Halloween orange/black theme for the first iteration of this car's life.

Getting ready to be loaded at RCR.

First time seeing her. Wow.

Getting it off the truck and into the driveway.





This is my happy face.

Getting the car down to the lower garage. Some very tense moments and when I learned all about high siding a low car.

Raised and ready for work! Sneaking away in the evenings to touch it and start the slow process of getting the build started. Will be chipping away at this for the next few months until I can dedicate some real time and energy into this car.

Head on shot of the CF10 wheels, nothing special from this angle but when viewed at an angle the concavity of the spokes really changes the character of this wheel and adds even more aggressiveness to the car - best wheel choice imho.

Yes, I have small hands ...

Finally got the rear and front clams off today. Looks like automotive jewelry under there!


A nice shot of the old and the new. The car in the background started life with a hand cranked motor! It gets about as much attention as I imagine the SLC will.
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Hey Cam,
Your sportbike is showing through :)
It's high centering not high siding!

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The center spider has finally been removed and I've made serious tracks on getting the car disassembled. I'll need to find a place to stow the Graz for a while and plan to eventually have the drop gears installed. For now it's staying in the frame, I'm very quickly running out of floor space! Likely most people wouldn't have as much of an issue but I've ordered almost everything I need for the car short of miscellaneous materials and hardware. Due to my compressed build schedule I've been trying to get everything here and ready once I'm able to jump into the build with both feet.

The suspension is no joke, these billet pieces are beautiful and it kills me to see the few nicks and scratches already on them. My OCD is going to be screaming once this gets on the road and debris starts to mar their finish.


All the suspension's been removed and the interior tub and cage are also out. I need to get some angle and rubber for rhefuel tank anchor points next. I'm finally at a point now where I can start to make forward progress on the build itself. It's been tough not being able to run down to the garage each night to work on this project, Life seems to have other priorities for now.

For those who've powdercoated their calipers, did you first strip the factory coating and if yes, how did you do it? I'm wondering if the black color is an anodize or paint.


Sneak peek of a recent arrival ...

Experimenting with different shift knobs leads me to believe your shift knob may be to big to fit without your front knuckles hitting the dash sifting into 3rd and 5th if you have a rear view camera installed. I elected to go with a momo knob that had a smaller circumference.
Talk to your powder coater. Many have a chemical dip to cleanse the metal surface. They will probably clean it anyway to guarantee their product.
I had my calipers powder coated by Armor Tech, here in Florida, and they did not need me to do anything. They did not even have to disassemble the calipers. They block out all of the seals and threads. They came out as nice, if not nicer than my Ferrari Brembos or my Porsche Brembos.


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Thanks for the heads up Jon - it may look like I have large hands but they're actually quite tiny ;) hopefully I won't have that problem. I plan to mount my rear view monitor in the conventional overhead location but I did want to run a radio down below the center binnacle. I'll be sure to keep this in mind as I set the center dash and console area up.

Dan - I'll be my own powder coater on this job! I do plan to bake the parts and apply a cleaner before applying the powder however. I'll try a paint stripper the next opportunity I get to see if it does anything but figured I would ping the community.
Mark - in your second pic, I can't tell if the circles where the bolts go through are black or metal colored, can you check? Wondering if they removed the black coating before going to the powder.

I'm opting to remove all the seals before powdecoating. It's a bit of a pain in the butt but I'm trying to minimize my opportunity for screwing thkngs up ;)

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man

Your post initiated a discussion with my powder coater, and he insisted that the calipers needed to be brought in gutted. My interpretation of this detailed discussion was that the out-gassing, and curing temperatures are on the margins of what the o-rings can handle, and perhaps for his liability concerns, he chooses not to coat fully assembled calipers.

I wonder if perhaps there is a lower temperature powder coating that is being used here.
Cam: I will look when I am at my shop to see if any coating was removed in the areas you mentioned.

As for removing the seals, I spoke with the owner of Armor Tech, who had a big shop up north, retired, and now has a rather "boutique" business in powder coating. He insists, having done jobs for clients around the country, that the temperatures required for the powder coat process are lower than the temperatures the seals are designed to undergo in function. He has photos of his work on cars in SEMA. I consider him an authority, but you can give him a call.