Chuck and Ryan's RCR Build


Do you have any pictures of the full car with the chrome mirrors on the doors?

Don't have any decent pics with the mirror. Went out to the garage to get one. Opened the door. Here is what I saw. Figure I best wait until it melts before I roll it out and snap a pic.

If this weather keeps up Al Gore will need to find another 'cause.'


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Air Filters

A couple of the original GT 40s on display at the Shelby Museum in Boulder, Colorado, had screens inside the air intake vents on the rear clip. This is a good idea that keeps the big chunks out of the way of the carbs. Duplicating this detail was a nice evening project.

Stainless steel screen was obtained from Pegasus, part number 3641-12 x 18. It is #6 x .035 medium mesh. A 12” x 18” sheet was plenty. After making the usual pattern, it was cut out with a cutting tool about 3/16” under size. (Note that there is slight variation from left to right, so make separate patterns for each side.) The edge was trimmed with edge grip rubber seal. We used 1/16” edge with a 13/64” bulb (we pulled the bulb off), since we had some handy (McMaster-Carr, Part # 1120A181).

Long ago before the body was painted we had placed three Nutserts on each side in anticipation of adding these screens later. Three small stainless button head screws fit snugly between the screen openings, holding them securely in place.

With the back glass in place, they are relatively inconspicuous.

Although proper carb filters would be best, we liked the look of those eight separate trumpets, so opted for separate carb covers. We found these slick velocity stack filters at Pierce Manifolds. About $160 for the set. They are made specifically for the IDF carbs. Nicely made, with two layers of screening and a very fine mesh in-between. Part number 99217.250. Pierce Manifolds, Gilroy, CA. (408)842-6667.


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These kind of filters limit the airflow usualy up to rate of 30%.
Just do a calculation how mucl less surface you have.
My reco, either open ( or max the tea strainer solution) or some big surface K&N or similar filters ( the issue is the won´t fit underneath the rear glass)



Hey Tom

Yea, I know. If we take it to the track, it takes about ten seconds to pop them off and a few more minutes to reset the idle mixture. Zipping around town or the local highways, where most of our miles will likely add up, the loss in power should not much matter. The idea of something getting sucked into those carbs is more disconcerting the a slight loss in air flow for routine driving.

If one believes the specs, the restriction on these filters is much less than the black booties.

Hope you are feeling better!

Well done, indeed!
You have been an inspiration to me in my early stages of SL-C assembly. Lot's of well thought out and masterfully accomplished ideas. Thanks!


Recovery / Oil Breather / Puke Tank

So what exactly does one call the tank used to collect the blow by products from inside the valve covers? Regardless, we had a real problem with oil dripping from the single breather cap with just modest driving for short distances. Another post on this forum resulted in some good ideas and options.

A Moroso Oil Breather Tank, part number 85465, was selected since it has two input fittings, looks appropriate in this application, and since it was cheaper than a Canton tank (which has only one input fitting). AN fittings and hoses were used to connect it to the valve covers in our usual black / silver color scheme. The parts are available from Jegs and Summit.

The valve covers were drilled and tapped dead center. Deflectors were than fabricated from eighth inch aluminum and welded about 3/8” below the opening. The Guerny Weslake covers have plenty of space underneath, so we had no concerns about clearance.

The breather cap was replaced. We found a cheap rubber cap for a couple of bucks, but unfortunately it was marked “710” instead of “OIL”. Since it was such a good deal we used it anyway.

Amazing how much cleaner this makes everything. No more oil dripping out of the filler cap. No more oil dripping down on the exhaust manifold. No more oil accumulating on the chassis. Thanks, Jac Mac, for the good advice.


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Chuck, I've heard tell about those pesky 7I0 caps making their way onto cars and displacing defenseless hard working OIL caps. The engine looks terrific and I'm sure others will be on their guard.
Chuck--- Very nice work. Your attention to detail really pays off. As has been said before, you are a real inspiration to us who are still in the build.