Chuck and Ryan's RCR Build

gsharapa · Jul 11, 2015

I also have checked in and out on your build over the years and glad to hear Ryan ended up at Ford Motor Company. As a Ford employee of 38 years I'm happy to see more performance driven new employees to continue to carry the performance banner into the future!

CESLAW · Apr 1, 2016

Sound Enhancement

Several current performance vehicles enhance the driver’s experience by piping sound from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment, as we noted on Ryan’s 2016 Mustang GT. It may be accomplished electronically or passively, typically by tapping into the intake manifold.

The GT 40 is not typically described as a ‘quiet’ car with 500 HP exhausting through straight pipes out the rear, but because it is directed out the rear and with side glass in place some drivers will actually operate the car without ear plugs. Ryan and I wanted to explore a way to enhance the aural experience.

The passive route was selected. A hose was connected to one of the Weber carbs at the intake manifold below the right rear carb. Ideally a separate hose would be connected to each and then connected together, but we were concerned this could adversely affect the performance of the carbs. It would be much easier with a single carburetor, and would undoubtedly produce a better sound effect. The hose was then run into the cabin along the shifter cables to the forward end of the shift mechanism.

The hose must be sealed, but yet sound needs to pass through, so a diaphragm was added using wax paper. The wax paper was placed over the end of the 3/8” ID hose and a piece of 5/8” ID hose slid over, after which a clamp was placed to hold it in place. A small envelope with extra sections of 3” diameter wax paper is carried along in case of a failure on the road, which would obviously have an adverse effect on the engine’s performance.

To keep it simple the ‘output’ side was simply left extending from the forward end of the shifter on the passenger side. We plan to modify the arrangement and move the hose so it will be less conspicuous. Since these are low frequency sounds they are non-directional so a better location will be found.
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DaveClemo · Apr 1, 2016

Hi guys, long time follower, first time poster in this thread, and I just want to say: Nice mod!

BTW, you missed last year!

Pantera1889 · Apr 1, 2016

Keeping the tradition alive I see!!

Ron

CESLAW · May 29, 2016

Weight and Balance

With the Carbon Cub nearing completion we barrowed a set of auto racing scales to complete the weight and balance calculation. With the scales in hand Ryan suggested we weigh the GT. Well, you can’t just weigh it. If you are going to weigh it you might just as well make some adjustments.

First the good news. The GT weighed in at 2450 pounds empty (we subtracted the weight of the full tanks of fuel).

Next we discovered the left front wheel was nearly 100 pounds heavier than the right. The left rear wheel was more than 150 pounds lighter than the right. Time for some adjusting

We adjusted the spring height in eighth inch increments. A small change makes a big difference. When finished the left and right weights were within about ten pounds of each other.

We then checked ride height. The front was exactly equal. The left rear was about 1/8” higher.

At this point we called it quits.

CESLAW · Dec 4, 2016

Throttle Cable

While Ryan was driving the GT in August on a visit home, the throttle cable snapped at the pedal end. Actually the tiny crimped fitting came off.

When the car was built originally we used a nine foot long Lokar throttle cable. It worked well with a Holly style carburetor, but it was never happy with the four Weber carbs. The Webers have a total of five return springs working against the pedal and the resistance made for a less than satisfactory feel. So we decided to explore alternatives.

Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies sells custom length cables. After lots of measuring we ordered a cable with 10/32 stud ends. Jacket length was 108 inches and cable length was 112.5 inches. Shortened stud ends were ordered. The length of travel, which is the most critical dimension was 2.1 inches. The have a nice web page that makes determining the correct dimensions straightforward. These dimensions were dictated by the new bracket we fabricated and will obviously vary depending on the specific set up used.

The cable bracket that came with the Webers was a forward pull design that used a bell crank to make the 90 degree turn to the carb linkage connection. We wanted a bracket that would pull directly on the linkage, which meant a side pull. This is the same arrangement used on the original Mark I GT 40. A pattern was made and the bracket cut from a piece of aluminum. The stainless steel upright was taken from the existing bracket.

The end fittings for the cable were ordered from McMaster Carr. At the throttle end part number 2447K11, clevis rod end, 10-32 female, 13/16” length, was a direct replacement for the original fitting. At the carb end part number 6058K35, ball joint linkage, shielded stainless, 10-32, right hand thread, is used.

This upgrade works splendidly. The Pegasus cable is beefier than the Lokar, has a Teflon lining and hence is very smooth, and the threaded ends have a much larger crimp area and thus should not fail. Eliminating the bell crank also improved the throttle feel.
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GRPNR1P · Dec 12, 2016

Just wanted to complement an awesome build. What a great story you and your son share! That's sort of thing I'm hoping to be able to create one day with my own build and son.

CESLAW · Dec 14, 2016

Thanks Jordy. It has been a great experience on many levels. And more to come . . . .

CESLAW · Apr 1, 2017

Night Driving

The Lucas control switches on the GT are lined up like soldiers in a review line. That is how they did it in the sixties. But when driving in total darkness it may be difficult to identify switches, particularly if you do not want to take your eyes off the road. The consequences of flipping switches blindly while driving at high speeds could have serious consequences; such as flipping off the fuel pump instead of the auxiliary fan.

A simple solution was sought.

There is a company that manufacturers an inexpensive braille ribbon printer. The Reizen RL-350 Braille Labeler can be purchased on line for around $25.

Labels were made to identify the primary switches on the GT. A single letter was used to keep it simple except where two letters were needed to prevent confusion. The following are the braille abbreviations we used:

Headlights: L
Driving Lights: D
Fuel Left: FL
Fuel Right: FR
Auxiliary Fan: AF
Turn indicator: T
Horn: H

The braille labels were printed on black adhesive labeling tape. Once in place they are virtually impossible to see so they do not detract from the appearance of the control panel during daylight hours.

This simple upgrade has several benefits. First, the driver can positively identify the control switches without taking his eyes off the road. Second, the labels are virtually invisible so they do not detract from the appearance of the control panel. Third, they provide a degree of theft protection since very few car thieves know the braille alphabet. Fourth, one can drive late at night wearing dark sunglasses and still locate the switches with confidence. The only down sides are that the driver won’t be able to wear expensive leather driving gloves unless one fingertip is cut from the glove and the operator will need to learn braille.

A photo of the labels installed on the panel is attached, but as you can see they are virtually invisible.

P-nut · Apr 1, 2017

I see what you did there, Chuck!

But what is the use case for Russian or Chinese drivers? Do they need to learn Braille in the latin alphabet?

CESLAW · Apr 1, 2017

Will

Since English is the universal language for pilots, i figured it would also be for GT40 drivers. I may be assuming too much.

So that is a good point which i will get to work on.

Chuck

ChrisMartino · Apr 2, 2017

What was the date posted?

CESLAW · Apr 2, 2017

So what could the date posted possibly have to do with anything?

Tom T · Apr 3, 2017

So Chuck are saying that I shouldn't go the route of the cup holders?

CESLAW · Apr 5, 2017

Tom

Fortunately both the cupholders and the braille labels are completely compatible upgrades. The day will never come that I would fool into thinking otherwise.

Chuck

CESLAW · Jul 13, 2017

Fuel System Revisions

It has been more than four years since we upgraded the GT as chronicled on this blog. The GT has not been driven much between Ryan’s employment working on the current Ford GT and my preoccupation with building and flying the Carbon Cub. With the airplane complete there is more time to attend to the GT. Driving it more, I have been bothered by a persistent but intermittent fuel delivery problem. This was mentioned in a post in May 2013, noting the Holly HP-125 pumps would seem to lose their prime and the pressure at the regulator would seem to fluctuate. On occasion the engine would just die due to fuel starvation.

The Holly fuel pumps were installed with the input about six to twelve inches above the level of the fuel, depending upon how full the tanks were. With no resistance on the output side this was not a problem. But with a regulator set at less than three pounds pressure the pumps often have a hard time priming. Holly specifically states that the pump should be installed at or below the pickup level, so it is not a fault of the pumps, per se. With a regular set at seven pounds pressure for a four barrel carburetor they worked fine. But with the Weber IDAs set at two pounds this was a problem.

Facet makes a pump specifically designed to pull from a fuel tank well below the level of the pump. One specific model is rated at 50 GPM and will pull from 50 inches. (Pegasus part number FAC-40290). It comes with an integrated fuel filter on the input side and a check valve. Output pressure is more than adequate. It is approximately the same size as the Holley pumps.

We did a test installation and immediately discovered two things. First, they are LOUD. But with straight exhausts should not be an issue. Second, the pressure immediately came up to 3 pounds without fanfare, and stayed there several minutes even when the pump was off, confirming that the check valve worked. So on to the final installation.

Mark Clapp · Jul 14, 2017

Hi Chuck, I've used the Facet Dura-Lift pump for years now and it has been great. The pressure output is too high for a Holley 4 barrel at I believe nine pounds pressure so a regulator is needed to lower that some. It is loud but I like the plastic filter housing, which looks to me like the vintage glass ones.

Mark Clapp

CESLAW · Jul 14, 2017

Mark

Glad to hear a good report on the Facet pumps. It is my first experience with them. Ryan insisted I pull the label off, after which it did indeed have a more vintage look.

Chuck

Big-Foot · Jul 14, 2017

I have a couple of these pumps. One I just designated as a fluid transfer pump - works great for sucking all the ATF out of an automatic transmission before pulling the pan.
The other I installed in my street rod.
Yes they do make a little noise if you mount them solidly. I tend to make isolation mounts - the one in the street rod I used rubber washers under the two mounting points which is to a bracket that is then isolated by 1/8" thick EPDM rubber between the bracket and the frame of the car. I can only hear it when the engine is not running.
Oh - and these pumps will build ~11 PSI so you need a regulator (I use a deadhead - Aeromotive)..
-- tried to upload pics but they failed --
:cry:

CESLAW · Jul 16, 2017

Randy:

You must have read my mind, as you will see in the next post. Glad to get another good report on the Facet pumps.

Chuck

Chuck and Ryan's RCR Build

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