Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40
- Thread starter Wolfman
- Start date
So I see that lots of these kits come with warped body panels, does the warping stops when the car is build or will it happen again if the car sits outside for a while? Is that an issue with fiber glass bodies?
Devin
Supporter
Andres, from my experience with two cobra replica bodies, various fiberglass car parts and these GT40 body parts, yes there is always additional warping and flexing of the parts and panels once they are taken from their original molds. I suspect some is due to the fact that they aren’t “fully cured” once they are shipped to the customer and yet continue to “dry or cure”. This is why it’s important during the storage of the parts & panels to properly support them or initially install them on the chassis and avoid high temps in the storage facility until the build begins. In the case of my panels and parts, they were made at least 25yrs ago and weren’t stored in the best ways and conditions prior to my acquisition of them in 2005.
EVERY fiberglass body I’ve ever dealt with has had SOME warping, misalignment and has needed modifications to make them fit properly. MY BUILD has added another additional challenge of being sourced from different manufacturers and of varying levels of quality on top of being a scratch built chassis (see my entire log from the beginning).
Devin
Supporter
Been working the leveling of the side sill tops in preparation for a small build up of the base of the rear clam, the rear clam alignment pins and side latches. As with any structure, I’m starting with a level base to build on. Unfortunately the inside edge was lower and thinner than the outside edge so last weekend I built them up with epoxy resin & silica mix and light weight fiberglass matting. Today, a quick hit with a 40 grit inline sander and mini DA took care of the 90% solution. A light coat of filler will smooth out the imperfections later.
Devin
Supporter
Today’s work was on building the base of the rear clam to the correct level and installation of the passenger side alignment pin. It was built up in rough form to expedite proper fitting post alignment pins to make final body work & filler across panel openings easier. BTW, cardboard with clear box tape makes a great spacer that allows for easy release from the kitty hair filler and paint sticks are a good measure for final panel gaps…they will need to be sanded more to allow for primer and paint thickness.
Devin
Supporter
I got a set of the pinch weld push on door seals from a vendor a couple years ago similar to Steele Products 90-3717-277. The other openings I’ll measure and order a typical push on bulb seal.
Devin
Supporter
Didn’t want to get all dusty with fiberglass this past weekend, so ended up doing the final mounting of the clutch and transaxle to the engine. Don’t pay attention to the temp valve covers as those will get replaced with a set of G-W replica covers once some milling of the bolt holes is complete (due to some manufacturing misalignment in the castings). Also did some cleaning of the G86.20 case as well.
Devin
Supporter
Joe I’ve had a small amount of luck with heat and will build up unlevel surfaces within reason but major surgery has been more satisfying, quicker (in some ways) and I can make things fit my custom 2” stretch and scratch built frame & spider. I did it to myself…so I can’t get mad at anyone else
Devin
Supporter
Working on the roof / rear clam top misalignment. The top of the clam was bowed too far up. Some clamping and heat in multiple heat & cooling cycles got it from about 1/8” to 3/16” too high to just about right. I used a two stage 110V electric heat gun on the highest setting. One side “benefit” was that it exposed a large void & air pocket under the gelcoat along the edge of the back “window” recess.
Paul Hendrickx
Supporter
hello, is this an Porsche 996 six speed box? should it not be inversed? or is your engine reverse rotation?
