Awesome looking car Dean. I agree it was worth the wait and can't wait to see the Lampe touches going forward! 
Dean's GT-R build thread
- Thread starter Dlampe
- Start date
The first thing I decided to tackle was to remove the fuel tank and clean it out. The front of the car must come off to get the tank out and to remove the stainless steal coolant lines. It was super easy. I just marked were the bolts were in the slots to make sure it went back together the same way. It is just a few bolts and the whole thing comes right off.
Then you can take the cover plate off of the front of the tub to get to the tunnel.
With the cover off, you can pull the tank right out. The tank is a really nice piece. It is fully baffled and the bungs are welded in for the sending unit and the return lines. The pick up tube is welded in as well. Again, a really top quality piece.
I blew air through the tank but it was spotless. I found no material in the tank at all. The tank sides extend down about 2 inches to create a channel to run the coolant pipes. Anyway, I want to bolt the tank in the tunnel so I slid it back in and drilled 4 holes through the tunnel and through those "legs". You can see a 1/4 in bolt in the hole in the picture.
I removed the tank again and put some edge molding on the bottom edges to avoid any rattles in the future. Next I installed some nut zerts in the tank flange.
If you don't have this tool in your shop, you need it. It is a good quality nut rivet tool. It allows you to put threaded inserts into these aluminum panels.
Here is a picture of the inserts in the tank.
I was going to insulate the coolant tubes but i had extra tape so I decided to insulate the bottom of the tank too.
Next we needed to tape the holes for the sending unit. The holes are drilled to 5/32 which is the size needed for a 10-24 tap. We used grease to catch the cuttings and kept the tank clean.
I am using these 3/8 in thick slats to act as spacers between the tank and the tunnel. This will allow me to tighten the 4 bolts that hold the tank down without distorting the aluminum.
We wrapped the pipes and finished insulating the bottom of the tank. It took 3 bags of tape 15 ft long by 3 inches wide.
Next I am going to get into the gauge box and get the fuel sender so I can get the tank buttoned up.
Then you can take the cover plate off of the front of the tub to get to the tunnel.
With the cover off, you can pull the tank right out. The tank is a really nice piece. It is fully baffled and the bungs are welded in for the sending unit and the return lines. The pick up tube is welded in as well. Again, a really top quality piece.
I blew air through the tank but it was spotless. I found no material in the tank at all. The tank sides extend down about 2 inches to create a channel to run the coolant pipes. Anyway, I want to bolt the tank in the tunnel so I slid it back in and drilled 4 holes through the tunnel and through those "legs". You can see a 1/4 in bolt in the hole in the picture.
I removed the tank again and put some edge molding on the bottom edges to avoid any rattles in the future. Next I installed some nut zerts in the tank flange.
If you don't have this tool in your shop, you need it. It is a good quality nut rivet tool. It allows you to put threaded inserts into these aluminum panels.
Here is a picture of the inserts in the tank.
I was going to insulate the coolant tubes but i had extra tape so I decided to insulate the bottom of the tank too.
Next we needed to tape the holes for the sending unit. The holes are drilled to 5/32 which is the size needed for a 10-24 tap. We used grease to catch the cuttings and kept the tank clean.
I am using these 3/8 in thick slats to act as spacers between the tank and the tunnel. This will allow me to tighten the 4 bolts that hold the tank down without distorting the aluminum.
We wrapped the pipes and finished insulating the bottom of the tank. It took 3 bags of tape 15 ft long by 3 inches wide.
Next I am going to get into the gauge box and get the fuel sender so I can get the tank buttoned up.
Dean,
Am really enjoying your build log!
Which gearset did you get in your Graziano?
Keep it coming.
Mike
Am really enjoying your build log!
Which gearset did you get in your Graziano?
Keep it coming.
Mike
Maybe Fran will correct me but I am pretty sure I am running to shorter gear package. This is a street legal track day car so I wanted the tighter gears. The Coyote engine needs to run in a higher rpm range for peak power so I think it will work great for this application. I can always throw in that drop gear and widen the ratio's later if I don't like it.
Ken Roberts
Supporter
Here is a tip for you Dean. Purchase some silicone pipe sleeve from McMaster-Carr for the long lengths of coolant tubing that travels under the fuel tank. It is helpful in keeping the radiated heat away from the fuel tank. You know how well silicone oven gloves work. I converted over to this stuff on my SLC. Keeps the noise down in the wheel wells from stone strikes too. If you already have wrapped heat tape on your pipes I'd recommend the 1 3/4" size.
Here is a link to it McMaster-Carr
Here is a picture of it on a 1 1/2" tube. It's pricey but worth the cost for piece of mind.
McMaster-Carr
Here is a link to it McMaster-Carr
Here is a picture of it on a 1 1/2" tube. It's pricey but worth the cost for piece of mind.
McMaster-Carr
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This is really a great looking car. Really like the front air dam too (I had something similar incorporated into mine). If you want to talk over the Coyote aspect, drop me a line. I've spent a LOT of time researching and have just recently completed the custom headers for it. Jason in Australia, Renato here in the US, and a few others of us also went the Modular Ford route.
Michael Fling
Supporter
Congratulations Dean! Beautiful car. I know you will do a bang up job.
Putting a Coyote in my SLC... should be getting fired up for the first time soon. I know it is going to need custom tuning due to the changes required on the intake... we should collaborate.
Dean,
That tank looks good but your PM inbox tank is full.
Mike
That tank looks good but your PM inbox tank is full.
Mike
Inbox is clean now. Please try again.
I thought I would throw out a mid week update. I try to get into the garage about every night to do something. Sometimes it doesn't amount to much and sometimes it does. I had a very sharp body shop owner stop by and look at the glass work and give me his opinion on how to proceed.
In his opinion he thought it would best to work over the panels with 600 then 1000 grit to clean up any scratches and the seams. He is going to paint all the stripes then we will clear the whole thing. He didn't see a reason to paint it blue again since the body work was really unnecessary. We are going to start with the first few panels this weekend. He thought he could have it complete in about a month.epper:
I needed another bung welded into my tank for a return line so I had that done on Tuesday. Now the tank is ready to put back into the car. I put the sending unit in after reading the calibration instructions. It sounds complicated until you realize it is already calibrated correctly! This is a very nice and accurate piece. I used it in my SLC and it performed flawlessly.
It's been a little like Christmas around here this week. My engine showed up here today.
My son told me yesterday afternoon that I had 15 boxes on the porch!:shocked: I spent last night laying them out so I could see what I had and what was still missing.
In this pile is my fuel system. I decided to use all black fittings and black braided hose. It's just a personal choice but I think it will look cool. I'll probably lay out the system this week and show you what I decided to go with. I'm going to start "dressing" the engine and, if it goes well, I would like to get it mated to the trans axle and resting in the car this weekend.
In his opinion he thought it would best to work over the panels with 600 then 1000 grit to clean up any scratches and the seams. He is going to paint all the stripes then we will clear the whole thing. He didn't see a reason to paint it blue again since the body work was really unnecessary. We are going to start with the first few panels this weekend. He thought he could have it complete in about a month.
epper:I needed another bung welded into my tank for a return line so I had that done on Tuesday. Now the tank is ready to put back into the car. I put the sending unit in after reading the calibration instructions. It sounds complicated until you realize it is already calibrated correctly! This is a very nice and accurate piece. I used it in my SLC and it performed flawlessly.
It's been a little like Christmas around here this week. My engine showed up here today.
My son told me yesterday afternoon that I had 15 boxes on the porch!:shocked: I spent last night laying them out so I could see what I had and what was still missing.
In this pile is my fuel system. I decided to use all black fittings and black braided hose. It's just a personal choice but I think it will look cool. I'll probably lay out the system this week and show you what I decided to go with. I'm going to start "dressing" the engine and, if it goes well, I would like to get it mated to the trans axle and resting in the car this weekend.
Smokin'
I would of liked to seen a pic of you carrying the box with the Coyote in it!
