Dean's GT-R build thread

[Dean Lampe]

You know how when you look at these build threads and it seems like everything goes so smooth without any problems? Well let me just say it's not the way it really is. Friday and Saturday I thought I would attach the flywheel and the clutch and then work on my fuel system.

I laid out the fuel system on paper and had ordered all the needed parts. The pumps, filters, fittings, regulator, lines, etc.. I also order grade 10.9 bolts for the pressure plate and flywheel. Just trying to get ready for the weekend in the garage.

So Friday night I started with the flywheel and the clutch. The flywheel was easy. The clutch and pressure plate was another story. These bolts, according to the internet, (probably first mistake!) need to be torqued to 35 foot lbs. So I started around the flywheel and at about 22 lbs, I snap off a grade 10.9 6mm bolt! What the heck! So I check the internet again and apparently it is more like 17 foot lbs. So I take it all apart and do it again with a goal of 20 foot lbs. SNAP! I broke another F....ing bolt! Take it apart again after throwing the broken bolt at my tool box. (like that would help!) With no more bolts, that's the end of that project. Now explain to me how according to my torque spec sheet I should be able to torque to 37 foot lbs but I can't get past 22?

Anyway, I just walked away. I had the fuel system to work on. So I grab my 20 ft roll of new Vibrant braided line and a fitting for my fuel tank pick up and get rolling. For the life of me I couldn't get the fitting assembled. I worked and worked but the black nylon over the stainless steel braid was just not going to work. Now I have done hundreds of fitting so I'm not new to this. As I look at a table of fittings, I realize this is not the best solution so no fuel system tonight. Box it back up and send it back to summit. I'm just going with the standard stainless steel line.

So after hours of frustrating work and learning about ways to do it wrong I just grabbed a beer and went in the house. There's always tomorrow.

 

[Ron R.]

Sorry to hear it.

I have a fairly religious friend who says that any swearing you do in the garage while working on a car doesn't count against you.

I've spent the weekend drilling out two head bolts on an engine I'm refurbishing. I thought it was going to be a quick easy project.....oh how wrong I was.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Here is a top of the line "Teflon lined" hose I have started to use. Expensive but designed with a ground path in the hose to dissipate a static charge. Very durable, looks cool plus easy to clean.

Racetronix - -6 Hose, Teflon, Conductive, SS BLACK=

 

[Dean Lampe]

Well here is something to hang on the wall!

Metric Bolt Torque Table - CNCexpo.com

ARP bolts on the way!

 

[Brian Kissel]

Dean, So if I read the chart correctly the torque for a 6mm 10.9 bolt is just over 11 ft lbs. (11.08) dry. Is that how you interpreted it ?
Regards Brian

 

[Dean Lampe]

That's right Brian. If you step up to 12.9 socket head bolts you can get to 14 -15 dry. That's still with a little light oil on the bottom of the head but not on the threads. That sure doesn't seem like much but the ARP bolt instructions for the correct size say torque to 11 foot lbs.

 

[Allan]

Check the ARP bolts to make sure they don't run out of thread and do not fully compress the pressure plate. I've seen it where they are torqued correctly and the washers still spin underneath the heads because the solid part of the bolt contacted the flywheel. Makes it easier to snap a bolt when that happens also.

I use M6 Thread Size, 65mm Long, 1.0mm Pitch 24mm to full 12.9

 

[Dean Lampe]

Thanks Allan! I appreciate you chiming in. If you see me run off track, please let me know! Some of this is pretty new to me.

 

[Dean Lampe]

I did get a few things done yesterday. I wanted bring the thread up to speed. I finished the prep work to put the fuel tank back in the car and bolt it in. I just put a fitting on each end of a 20ft braided line and pushed it through the tunnel. I was sure to mark the pick up hose. That could have been a problem down the road!



I ran the sending unit wires under the tank to the front of the car. I also put the brake lines that go through the tunnel in piece of hose to remove the chance for rattles.





This gave me an opportunity to put the front clip back on.

 

[Dean Lampe]

I had a pretty good weekend in the shop. I got quite a bit done but some times it doesn't look like much. For example, I put a piece of PVC pipe in the tunnel to run wires through later. I drilled a 7/8 hole in the plate and with the hose sticking through, I put a small pin through the lower pipe wall to keep it from sliding back. Then put the cover back in place.



I also fitted the front radiator tubes.





The hoses I used were just a couple I picked off the wall at O'Reilly's but here are the numbers if your interested.



For those that just can't believe the the body lines are as good as they look, I took a few pictures after just about an hour of final fitting. Now a piece of paper can be slide all the way around the doors without getting stuck.





That is amazing! The doors swings closed with very little effort and probably fits as good if not better that the original! (note the Hula girl on the dash for luck)

 

[Justin]

UNBELIEVABLE!!! Those panel gaps look better than the original.

 

[John]

For those that just can't believe the the body lines are as good as they look, I took a few pictures after just about an hour of final fitting. Now a piece of paper can be slide all the way around the doors without getting stuck.



That is amazing! The doors swings closed with very little effort and probably fits as good if not better that the original! (note the Hula girl on the dash for luck)

Wow, that really is amazing. It sets a new standard for this industry.

 

[Woody]

Impressive build Dean Good job. I'm just doing the gaps on my DRB now and its a huge job so I can appreciate how good yours is straight out of the mould .
Keep up the good work
Woody

 

[Dave]

A little tip, gap your panels with the door seals on. The seals can distort the panel a little.

Awesome work and another fantastic option on the market for us kit builders.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

We have them in RHD too Dave....

 

[mark b.]

I don't see it, and maybe there is one, an air bleed on the outlet side of the radiator?

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Post #49 top right is the air bleed at the highest point of the rad.

 

[mark b.]

Post #49 top right is the air bleed at the highest point of the rad.

Op, there you go. How about the lowest point? Maybe something to put a drain line on?

After having to take apart seemingly everyones "stuff", I find it beneficial to consider how it is going to come apart. Makes life so much easier...

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Mark,

Lots of hose connections are much easier to access than the bottom of the rad sitting on a front splitter in a semi sealed area

 

[Dean Lampe]

There are actually 3 different petcocks in the radiator. Very well designed.

I do agree with the notion of putting in the seals before final fit. I wanted to get to a point where the door was hung by the hinge and held closed by the latch and touched nothing else. That has been my intention with other project at this stage in the build. I've just never been able to do it so easily.