Differences in GTD kits?

I am a new GTD owner and have heard GTD's referred to as "Mk1", "MkII", and "MkIII". Sorry to show my ignorance here, but can someone explain the differences? I don't know if those represent GTD's replication of the various types of GT40's that were produced, or if they indicate production changes in GTD's kit, or what.

Also, can anyone tell me which of the three mine would be classified as? The seller had no information in that regard. I do know the car was built around 1998-99 and that the last five digits of the VIN are 30592, if that is any indication--

Thanks--
 

Brian Magee

Supporter
Hi Snakeeyes

The different Mk's refer to the body style of the original cars.

Mk.I - This is the standard and most common car which I believe yours is.

Mk.II - This is very similar to the Mk.I but has extra scoops either side of the car just behind the side windows and above the normal scoops.

Mk.III - This is the road car and has twin headlamps, more rounded front wings and a longer tail section.

Hope this helps,

Brian.
 
Thanks, Brian. I wondered if it was that simple, but I'm always looking for ways to outsmart myself.
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Snakeeyes it sounds like you have an early 90's chassis - if the vin is a factory assigned number. Most GTD chassis's had the factory number stamped on the frame at the front of the car around the brake boosters. Unfortunately not all chassis's got stamped, but take a look. If the rear anti roll bar is mounted low across the rear of the frame you have one of the later frames. If the anti roll bar is mounted high, just under the exhaust, and linked to the lower suspension arms with a link you have the early style GTD chassis. Also look at where the pedal box mounts to the frame. If the frame has been cut and inset 1 1/2" you have an extended pedal box which will allow for longer legged drivers. This was an option starting around 1989/90. Check the mounting of your steering rack. It should have 3/8" to 7/16" spacer blocks under the rack to improve bump steer. If it is hot where you are you might want to look into some higher output radiator fans which will also probably require at least 80 amps of alternator output. Hope this will help you enjoy cruising in your new toy!
 
Thank you, Bud. I will print this and check the car out when I get home tonight. I may have to look into the improved cooling feature--I drove the car the day I brought her home, it was only about 65 F outside, but it was warm in the cockpit even with the a/c on...can't imagine it when it's 105 out.

Thanks for the tips!
 
Bob, I also have a GTD that I bought from Bud. I had cooling problems as well. I decided on a custom Aluminum Radiator. It has been the best $300 I have spent.

The guy who does it is in US. Email me If you need his web address (I am trying to find it!!).
 
Bob,

Here is his website http://www.streetrodstuff.com/

His name is Dick Zakrzewski. He is a retired Mechanical Engineer. He built 2 custom Aluminum radiators for me. One for the GTD ($308)and the other for my Cobra ($268). He is a great guy. Good Luck
 
G

Guest

Guest
If you think your AC is ineffective then check the compressor. Early GTD systems used a 505 compressor and later cars had a 705. I have no idea what any of that means but that is the info I beleive to be the case. Also most standard GTDs put the AC rad in the engine bay so it uses mainly hot air to cool it. Not cool! Some had a another made that mounted on the front of the main engine rad so it got fresh air and that improved the cooling effiency of the AC. It did not muck up the engine cooling by doing this but if have engine cooling problems to start with then this may not be a good idea. I originally bought the AC gear but never fitted it and so sold it on. Another learning experience for me there! Also I removed the heater thingy under the dash which hardly ever got turned on and saved a bit of weight. Lots of space generated though.

Malcolm
 
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