Doug's RCR

[Doug]

Got my RCR delivered this weekend! (Sort of). It's a deluxe kit+ that was purchased by a gentleman who decided not to complete the project. So, after a Banzai run to California and back, it's now my project!

I need input on one item. The chassis and aluminum panels have all been Scotch-Brited. I'm thinking I want a different type of chassis finish. What's the consensus on re-finishing the aluminum?

The pictures are very kind and do not show the real finish.

My first order of business will be to fit the body panels and make ready for paint. This will include all perforations in the fiberglas, window trimming/fitement, etc. Once done, on to the chassis.

Thanks.

 

[Graham]

Doug, congratulations on your purchase!! I got my RCR in the same way. I've spent the last two weeks painting the chassis in Satin Black. I deliberated for a while and then decided that was the way to go for me. Now that it's very nearly done (I'll have pictures on my build thread soon) I am very pleased with the result. The black is a perfect contrast to nice chrome / Ally parts that will sit along side.

Whichever way you go, enjoy!

Cheers,

Graham.

 

[Jim Craik]

Doug,

Cangratulations, it's a real beauty!

Good luck with you build, keep us informed (pix)

 

[Doug S.]

Doug, congratulations on your new acquisition--looking forward to seeing your build progress.

Oh, yeah, I fixed that "WIX MkII" issue that has been so confusing.....
(an inside issue for those of you who are wondering).

Most of the posts I've seen here on finishing the aluminum either mention anodization or a spray on product, I think it's called "POR" or "PQR"......I didn't really try to memorize it b/c I don't have a use for it yet, and I've slept since then so I may be way off, too.

I'm sure others will be much more knowledgable, so I'll exit with my best wishes for an enjoyable build!

Doug

 

[Jack]

Doug(s)
The coating is POR (Paint Over Rust). Works well. I have found satin black to look best on the 40 IMO. Although not building a GT40, My SL-C has a combination of
black and polished aluminum (I use Busch's Aluminum polish). My black coating is from Rust Bullet hardshell black, similar to POR-15.

 

[Randy V]

Congratulations Doug...

Since I only want to do this once -
I've got mine setup to be Powder Coated once all the rest of the final fitting is complete and I tear it down.

 

[Randy V]

By the way - It looks like your car was originally fitted with a Roll-Cage. Hopefully you got that cage from the seller..

You need to have that cage in place while you are fitting the Spider and doors as well as the dashboard.

 

[EGLITOM]

Hi Doug

Congratulations to your new toy

I will scotch up my chassis this week and than paint it satin black.
First coat is a thin one of etchprimer, which increase the paints adhesion to the aluminum. second and final coat is Polyurethan chassis paint which is very resistant to all kind of influences and keeps flexible to avoid stone chips.

TOM

 

[Alex]

Do you just not like the look of brushed aluminum, or is the issue it was done quite poorly? I find that if you wetsand up to 400 (so 150, 220, 320, 400), then finish with a red (maroon) scotchbrite pad it looks killer. Of course you want to make certain all your grain lines are even, otherwise, well, it looks like crap :laugh:

 

[Mark]

I like powder coat (satin black, or a very dark blue similar to the original's)...

Brushed does look killer, but it's a pita to keep up. Try going over a section with the red scotchbrite using mineral spirits, like you would use water when wet sanding...

 

[Doug]

Here's the problem with the chassis the way it stands right now; the Scotch-Brite finish looks more like it is a scrubbing vs. a finish that would be permanent.

I'm not against the brushed aluminum finish, just this one.

At this point I would not even be happy painting over it as is; I think there would be a lot of the marks showing through the paint finish.

At minimum I have to DA the entire chassis before painting, or DA it all to remove scratches, then work my way to a polished finish with increasingly finer abraisives.

Suggestions.

 

[Alex]

I like powder coat (satin black, or a very dark blue similar to the original's)...

Brushed does look killer, but it's a pita to keep up. Try going over a section with the red scotchbrite using mineral spirits, like you would use water when wet sanding...

fyi, you can seal it with Sharkhide - it's a rub-on clear-coat type product (dissolved with acetone/MEK) that keeps it looking like new for (supposedly) 8-10yrs if it's out of a marine environment (2-3 in a marine (salt water) environment)

I've got several brushed pieces I'm playing with right now. Sharkhide is invisible; now the problem I'm running into is my brushed pieces arn't even (sometimes deeper sanding scratches, etc...), but once I get it right, it looks killer.

 

[Mark Maybury]

Doug,
I have had good luck with my Factory 5 cars with self etching primer and IMRON Urethane. The chassis look great after 8 years and many miles on the sand covered roads that we have here in Maine.
Mark

 

[Doug]

Mark, Thanks for that. I am leaning towards the black chassis. BTW for RCR kit builders, what is the measurement on the front (leading edge) of the door prior to doing any fitting? Mine look a little short, but I have not done any kind of fitting as of yet - heading out to the shop now.

 

[Rob]

Congratulations Doug,
I chose the natural aluminum. The only down side was scratches showed. The scotch brite finish would permit you to re-scuff areas to keep the finish uniform. With that said, the next one will be powder coated.

Hey....how about some pics of the stang...!! :thumbsup:

 

[Doug]

Rob, I am considering the brushed look - took a scuff wheel to an area today to see what it would look like - no decisions yet.

Tell me, on the sequence; A/C, duct plenum, roll cage, dash, spider, then body panels? I'm a little freaked about the initial fitment of the front & rear clips, the spider, and rockers.... jitters I suppose.

Here's a few of the '69.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

I used a product labeled as DTM (Direct to Metal) on my aluminimum wheel center sections. Never chipped, and actually took abuse better than a powerder coat would have. It only came it light grey and black, and is meant as a primer for the color coat, but it has a satin finish.

 

[Brian Hamilton]

Beautiful '69 Fastback!!! I want one of those so bad I can taste it. Absolutely my favorite model Mustang Ever! Congrats on the new acquisition of the GT40. You'll enjoy building it I'm sure. Oh and welcome to the forum.

Laters,

Brian

 

[Doug]

Engine/Trans placement; How much forward/aft do I have to play with on the engine/trans? Do the axle shafts, trans output, and wheel hubs have to be in alignment, or can the trans outputs be up to 1.5-2" behind the hubs? Also, does the engine need to be level with the chassis? Thanks!! (Yes, some progress)

 

[Randy V]

Hi Doug,

I don't know what Transaxle you are planning on running.
I am using a Porsche G50/03 that I shortened to be very close to the same length as the G50/01..

I move the whole nine yards forward a couple of inches.. You can see all my measurements and how I did it here on my build website;
GT-Forty.com

You can have some misalignment fore/aft on the CVs but the lesser amount possible is best.