Duncans GT-Forte Scratch Build
- Thread starter Duncan
- Start date
Very neat and tidy Duncan. I'm hoping to start fitting my Heater and A/C unit this weekend. If you have any further pics you could send me on email, they will be much appreciated.
Kevin,
Good spot! THere's no bleed at the moment. This is a first fix at the moment so I can sort all the pipework through the tunnel. There's a couple of threaded bosses on the top of the rad that I hope can simply be drilled through and plugged with a bolt / o ring.
Has anyone else done this on the winner racing rads?
Nick,
I'll try and get some detail pics later and send you an email if I get a chance,
Duncan
Good spot! THere's no bleed at the moment. This is a first fix at the moment so I can sort all the pipework through the tunnel. There's a couple of threaded bosses on the top of the rad that I hope can simply be drilled through and plugged with a bolt / o ring.
Has anyone else done this on the winner racing rads?
Nick,
I'll try and get some detail pics later and send you an email if I get a chance,
Duncan
Brett James-McCall
Moderator
Here's what I did Duncan
Duncan I have the exact radiator in my mk-1 on Saturday I drilled out those two threaded bosses welded onto the tank. I drilled into the tanks re-threaded and installed brass fittings to connect my vent hoses too. I wasn't sure they would end up thick enough but it worked good. I will connect them at a tee and run one 3/8 inch line down the tunnel and into a canton tank to bleed off the air, this is like the 4th or 5th I've done this way and it has worked great
Thanks guys. I've found a 7/16 brass pipe fitting at cbs which should work one i've drilled and tapped out one of the bosses.
More work on the water pipes. Needed to fit an m8 rivnut, but realised although i had some, my rivnut tool only goes upto m6. Came up with a cunning hack...
I inserted the rivnut in the hole and installed an m8 bolt with a couple of m10 and an m8 nut on it in the hole as below.
More work on the water pipes. Needed to fit an m8 rivnut, but realised although i had some, my rivnut tool only goes upto m6. Came up with a cunning hack...
I inserted the rivnut in the hole and installed an m8 bolt with a couple of m10 and an m8 nut on it in the hole as below.
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Then used three spanners to apply tension and compress the rivnut. The top one (head of the m8 bolt) is held stationary to avoid spinning the rivnut. The middle spanner (on the m8 nut) is tightened to squash the rivnut, whilst the lower spanner is held stationary on the m10 nut to stop the rivnut from spinning when the m8 nut is tightened. Basically the only rotating part is the m8 nut, which compresses the rivnut eithout spinning it as its tightened. Hope the makes sense.
Works surprisingly well. You can feel the rivnut quite well and Tell when it starts to compress and when to stop. Better than a set of rivnut pilers I think, plus you can apply a lot of force easier this way. I did a test run before hand on some scrap and it ain't going knowhere.
Works surprisingly well. You can feel the rivnut quite well and Tell when it starts to compress and when to stop. Better than a set of rivnut pilers I think, plus you can apply a lot of force easier this way. I did a test run before hand on some scrap and it ain't going knowhere.
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Had a bit of a down time after slicing my hand open on a piece of aluminium. Trip to A&E and a couple of weeks away from the garage.
Made up an adapter from the steering wheel to the weld on quick release adapter. Had to do this on the milling machine using the rotary table as I don't have a lathe. Came out okay though. Still to be anodised.
Might seem a bit out of sequence, however I want to fit the panels as soon as I can before they get damaged. To do that I need to get all the services and brake lines in place. To do that I need to fit the pedal box. To do that I need to understand the seating postion. To do that I need to mock up a seat and set up the steering wheel. Argh!
Made up an adapter from the steering wheel to the weld on quick release adapter. Had to do this on the milling machine using the rotary table as I don't have a lathe. Came out okay though. Still to be anodised.
Might seem a bit out of sequence, however I want to fit the panels as soon as I can before they get damaged. To do that I need to get all the services and brake lines in place. To do that I need to fit the pedal box. To do that I need to understand the seating postion. To do that I need to mock up a seat and set up the steering wheel. Argh!
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I want to remake the panel in front of the steering rack so it seals properly to avoid hot air coming into the cabin from the radiator. This is tricky with the clamp bosses for the front anti roll bar as they protude from the chassis a few mm. Designed a press tool and 3d printed it. First test on a scrap bit of sheet below. Not too bad, but might make a couple of revisions.
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Hi Ryan,
In this area it's 1.2mm 1050A aluminium sheet. Not sure of the hardness I'm afraid. I haven't annealed yet. Print is simply PLA at 210deg. I usually don't quite go to 100 as I find 95% enables you to loose any overextrusion due to filment variation. I'm going to redesign the tool above to make the area outside the pressing wider to reduce distorsion in the sheet round the feature. I'll also use it backed with 10mm mdf or ply plates to reduce the load on the 3d print. I find these things are great in compression, not as good in tension.
In this area it's 1.2mm 1050A aluminium sheet. Not sure of the hardness I'm afraid. I haven't annealed yet. Print is simply PLA at 210deg. I usually don't quite go to 100 as I find 95% enables you to loose any overextrusion due to filment variation. I'm going to redesign the tool above to make the area outside the pressing wider to reduce distorsion in the sheet round the feature. I'll also use it backed with 10mm mdf or ply plates to reduce the load on the 3d print. I find these things are great in compression, not as good in tension.
Finished off the panel in front of the steering rack, including using the 3D printed press to form round the anti-roll bar mounts, and used the rolling tool again to make a lip so the access panel can sit flush. Hopefully will reduce radiator heat ingress into the cabin.
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Made a mocked up seat to undertand the pedal box / steering location better and as a template for proper seats.
I've found that the pedal box is way too offset at the moment, so will need modifying to fit round the chassis tube.
Also made the firewall panel in front of the pedal box.
I've found that the pedal box is way too offset at the moment, so will need modifying to fit round the chassis tube.
Also made the firewall panel in front of the pedal box.
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Hi Duncan
So pleased to see your posts again. We have the same pedal box so I will check out my build to see just how offset the pedals are to the seating and steering.
Without going back through your posts and the history of the Forte Dashboard and version 2 chassis steering mount positions, have you checked both the steering and pedal box positions ?
Best.
Nick.
So pleased to see your posts again. We have the same pedal box so I will check out my build to see just how offset the pedals are to the seating and steering.
Without going back through your posts and the history of the Forte Dashboard and version 2 chassis steering mount positions, have you checked both the steering and pedal box positions ?
Best.
Nick.
Hi Duncan.
I’ve got mine in a very similar position to yours albeit hanging from above rather than floor mounted.
21cm from centre of accelerator to centre of clutch pedal.
I have about 1cm from the side of the clutch pedal to the tunnel.
I’m using Tilton pedal unit and I might slim the pedals down a bit.
Regards Bob.
I’ve got mine in a very similar position to yours albeit hanging from above rather than floor mounted.
21cm from centre of accelerator to centre of clutch pedal.
I have about 1cm from the side of the clutch pedal to the tunnel.
I’m using Tilton pedal unit and I might slim the pedals down a bit.
Regards Bob.
