Michael Fling
Supporter
wow- TY Troy!
Fling SLC Build Thread
- Thread starter mcfling
- Start date
Michael Fling
Supporter
I forgot to mention... The final headlights are 2009 Nissan Altima headlights- not 2010. These have the turn reflector in the inside- not on the outside. I think this will help the lines of the car. This particular one has halos. It is available in a blacked-out version too. Headlights and tail lights are from www.carid.
I recently put a thin layer of VPS on the headlight lens. Then a frame was boxed around it. It was then filled with fibetglass. This piece will be blended into the reshaped fender. This will give an exact transition point between fiberglass and headlight.
I recently put a thin layer of VPS on the headlight lens. Then a frame was boxed around it. It was then filled with fibetglass. This piece will be blended into the reshaped fender. This will give an exact transition point between fiberglass and headlight.
Michael Fling
Supporter
A side note to the build: My son Tyler and I have raced together for 14 years. He started when he was 10. My world ha revolved around him. Last weekend we moved him in to his new apartment in Atlanta. He had the good fortune to be hired by Porsche as a driver/coach at their new headquarters. I really miss him but I am so happy for him too.
While going through training, he has gotten to see a few cool things:
While going through training, he has gotten to see a few cool things:
Michael Fling
Supporter
I mounted the cold air induction box today. Turned out well...
Michael Fling
Supporter
Getting all the wiring secured and in place. BTW- TY Eric for the Vintage wiring video. I have run extra 16 gauge wire (4), 2 coax, and a 22/5 from front to back for "things" that may be needed after the body is in place. I am making a removable access panel on the driver side so that I can service the Accusump and reach the electronic throttle connection if needed. The box for the E Stopp will be under the dash too (for serviceability). I am needing various connections from the ISIS for ignition power and constant power... electric doors, interior lighting, etc. There are 2 wires from the front that can do this (a blue and red wire) which run to the hydrolytic pump. I found these at Lowes:
These allowed me to run the single blue and red wires to then multiply the connections to a fuse box- one for constant power and one for ign. power.
I wanted to have easy access to the fuses. I mounted the fuse boxes to a hinge. It is mounted to the frame behind the dash. It is secured up where it is not visible. When needed, it can be rotated down for clear visibility.
Craig has been the leader of the pack and a great help to me. TY.
These allowed me to run the single blue and red wires to then multiply the connections to a fuse box- one for constant power and one for ign. power.
I wanted to have easy access to the fuses. I mounted the fuse boxes to a hinge. It is mounted to the frame behind the dash. It is secured up where it is not visible. When needed, it can be rotated down for clear visibility.
Craig has been the leader of the pack and a great help to me. TY.
Michael Fling
Supporter
I wanted my rear wing placed over the back of the car. I know the aerodynamic testing was done with it more to the rear, but I still wanted to change it. I had these struts fabricated:
They extend through the body and are attached to a "U' shaped bracket I had fabricated. This bracket is very rigid. I connected adjustable heim jointed struts from the bracket to the frame.
I can adjust these struts to lengthen or shorten them so the wing angle can be adjusted. They carry the load to the chassis. It tucks in perfectly under the cold air box. It allows the rear clam to open/close without having to remove the wing.
I am unclear if the aluminum inside the rear wing extends far enough over for me to tap into it?
I like how it turned out...
They extend through the body and are attached to a "U' shaped bracket I had fabricated. This bracket is very rigid. I connected adjustable heim jointed struts from the bracket to the frame.
I can adjust these struts to lengthen or shorten them so the wing angle can be adjusted. They carry the load to the chassis. It tucks in perfectly under the cold air box. It allows the rear clam to open/close without having to remove the wing.
I am unclear if the aluminum inside the rear wing extends far enough over for me to tap into it?
I like how it turned out...
Ken Roberts
Supporter
That's very creative Michael. Is that one of Fran's wings?
Yes, it's the standard wing supplied with a race tail
Very nicely done. I like the positioning and how you came through the body cleanly.
I personally feel that a rear wing would be best right over the rear axles. Sure it could give you more down force farther back, but in doing so it would cause less down force on the front by the leverage factor. I find it much harder to create down force on the front than on the rear with a big wing. I would think just another degree or two on the attack angle would compensate for the forward position and also have more front down force for an overall positive result. I have moved the wing on my race car forward by about 12" and took some angle out of it to keep it balanced.
I too did the flip down fuse/component panel, the less time spent head first in the foot box the better! Many nice detail service minded items in your build that will pay for themselves down the road.
How is the lateral stability of the wing setup? I have some concern on my own wing that it may want to oscillate side to side while underway. There seem to be few comments on that possibility by road going examples.
How is the lateral stability of the wing setup? I have some concern on my own wing that it may want to oscillate side to side while underway. There seem to be few comments on that possibility by road going examples.
Michael Fling
Supporter
Take a look at the "U" shaped piece that connects from 1 side to the other. It makes this very rigid. Fran expressed concern about the wing mounting to the bar and not to the chassis. I will be posting next week as I am having the design changed so that the force goes to the chassis and not the bar... stay tuned.
Troy.
I can tell you having spent masses of time , energy and resources on the race SLC aero with CFD, that the wing mounted higher and further back, when used with our full aero package is far more effective than one mounted above the rear axle.
Adding more wing angle increases drag but not necessarily effective downforce....its a subtle balance of drag vs lift and aero balance.
Changing the center of pressure on the car drastically effects handling...
I can tell you having spent masses of time , energy and resources on the race SLC aero with CFD, that the wing mounted higher and further back, when used with our full aero package is far more effective than one mounted above the rear axle.
Adding more wing angle increases drag but not necessarily effective downforce....its a subtle balance of drag vs lift and aero balance.
Changing the center of pressure on the car drastically effects handling...
I too was wondering about that mounting - I thought mounting to the bodywork and not the chassis was a big no-no with functional spoilers.
Michael Fling
Supporter
This wing position is NOT attached to the body at all. That would be a no-no. Fran advised me before I decided to change the wing location that the original testing was completed with the wing back and up. My decision was for 2 reasons:
1. I wanted a wing that could hinge with the bonnet with no need to disconnect anything.
2. I like how it looks better with the wing more forward
When you see the changes next week, you will se that the wing is higher. It will be set to the height of my modified roof air inlet.
As I have progressed with this build, I have changed my utilization of the car. It will be a street car and occasional track car. I already have a custom interior shop lined up. The design is a 2 tone leather. In bigger news, I have a new custom leather adjustable seat that should be here in 3-4 weeks. It slides forward/backward, has a 5 point harness accommodation, and has a back that is adjustable. I have invested with a company to have these designed and manufactured. When the prototype returns, I will give you an update on availability.
The Autometer LCD Sportsman Dash was supposed to be available by now. It is not yet. I am dragging my feet in regards to the dash until I have that unit. It is amazing. Backup camera, rearview camera, interior dome light,door switches etc mounted on overhead panel. I have electric doors as per the master Allan. I have the one piece tub (mine has been sectioned for easy install/removal). It didn't concern me to do that because the interior will be carpet/leather etc. Think a Porsche interior.... that is what I am after.
1. I wanted a wing that could hinge with the bonnet with no need to disconnect anything.
2. I like how it looks better with the wing more forward
When you see the changes next week, you will se that the wing is higher. It will be set to the height of my modified roof air inlet.
As I have progressed with this build, I have changed my utilization of the car. It will be a street car and occasional track car. I already have a custom interior shop lined up. The design is a 2 tone leather. In bigger news, I have a new custom leather adjustable seat that should be here in 3-4 weeks. It slides forward/backward, has a 5 point harness accommodation, and has a back that is adjustable. I have invested with a company to have these designed and manufactured. When the prototype returns, I will give you an update on availability.
The Autometer LCD Sportsman Dash was supposed to be available by now. It is not yet. I am dragging my feet in regards to the dash until I have that unit. It is amazing. Backup camera, rearview camera, interior dome light,door switches etc mounted on overhead panel. I have electric doors as per the master Allan. I have the one piece tub (mine has been sectioned for easy install/removal). It didn't concern me to do that because the interior will be carpet/leather etc. Think a Porsche interior.... that is what I am after.
Fling. If you are running an LS you can could look at HP Tuners software as I think they have it that could work on a tablet and give you gauges you might want to use. I am using an MS3pro ecu and will be using a 7" tablet or larger and have my tunerstudio software running all the time on that so I can see the engine parameters as I want and only costs me $50 for a tablet at bestbuy. Even if I have to run a small laptop screen and use a keepboard somehow it will be nice to have all the time in the car and can be done what you like. EFI Analytics TunerStudio | tunerstudio.com
Tabbed Dashboards - Add as many dashboards as you wish allowing yout to quickly change views depending on what you may be working on or to provide different look in a snap.
Gauge Styles - A growing list of available Gauge styles gives you the power to create dashboard designs limited only by your imagination. Additional Gauge Styles can requested any time you think of one.
Full Screen Dashboards - With a simple double click or selecting from the menu you can make any tabbed dash go full screen. You can even set it up to go straight to full screen on startup.
Dashboard Designer - Modify any dash in a snap or build your own from the ground up with designer mode. Designer mode gives you a full WYSIWYG drag and drop interface allowing you to place gauges anywhere you like. You select the styles, limits, fonts, colors, titles and text. You can save and share your work or just show it off.
If you google this and look at images to see what others have done. tunerstudio custom gauge
Tabbed Dashboards - Add as many dashboards as you wish allowing yout to quickly change views depending on what you may be working on or to provide different look in a snap.
Gauge Styles - A growing list of available Gauge styles gives you the power to create dashboard designs limited only by your imagination. Additional Gauge Styles can requested any time you think of one.
Full Screen Dashboards - With a simple double click or selecting from the menu you can make any tabbed dash go full screen. You can even set it up to go straight to full screen on startup.
Dashboard Designer - Modify any dash in a snap or build your own from the ground up with designer mode. Designer mode gives you a full WYSIWYG drag and drop interface allowing you to place gauges anywhere you like. You select the styles, limits, fonts, colors, titles and text. You can save and share your work or just show it off.
If you google this and look at images to see what others have done. tunerstudio custom gauge
Those types of gauges are great for supplemental information, but as main gauge, they have a few drawbacks that, IMO, make them unsatisfactory for street use. First, they tend not to have an odometer. Most everyone wants an odo to measure overall car use, and in some states it is required. Second, they tend not to have the kinds of warning or signal lights that a street car needs, like turn signals, high beam lamps, OBD2 warning light, etc. And third, they tend to be very engine-centric, meaning that signals that don't come from the engine, or aren't in the OBD2 data stream or recognized from their own sensors, just can't be displayed. For example, you will likely want a fuel level gauge on your car- but many such tools (I don't know about TunerStudio) don't have a way to read fuel level in a tank unless it is a recognized PID in the OBD2 data stream.
There are such gauges, but they tend to be extremely expensive (I'm thinking of the Motec series here), which takes them out of the $50 tablet and free software approach, right into tens of thousands of dollars for a full Motec harness, display and accessories like sensors that is installed and setup by a pro shop.
The stock gauge is actually pretty good; it's only real drawback is the lack of an oil pressure gauge. However, with the correct switch, it's easy to wire up the included oil pressure warning light to come on when pressure is low. I've done so on my car, and it reassuring to see the light come on when ignition is on with the engine off, and see it go off when the engine is started and oil pressure exceeds the switch setting.
There are such gauges, but they tend to be extremely expensive (I'm thinking of the Motec series here), which takes them out of the $50 tablet and free software approach, right into tens of thousands of dollars for a full Motec harness, display and accessories like sensors that is installed and setup by a pro shop.
The stock gauge is actually pretty good; it's only real drawback is the lack of an oil pressure gauge. However, with the correct switch, it's easy to wire up the included oil pressure warning light to come on when pressure is low. I've done so on my car, and it reassuring to see the light come on when ignition is on with the engine off, and see it go off when the engine is started and oil pressure exceeds the switch setting.
I use an aircraft fuel sending unit that sends out a 0-5v signal that works well. On the MS3 it can input this value and make a fuel gauge.
I do agree just some warning lights would be nice though. On my race car I have gone from lots of gauges to just wanting almost none. Just a high water temp warning light, low water pressure warning light, fuel low light, shift light, surge tank low light and currently a tach, but really just a shift light is that is needed there. Then I can leave the rest to driving. On a street car it is different though, but it can be kept simple. Just some ideas out there for different things.
I do agree just some warning lights would be nice though. On my race car I have gone from lots of gauges to just wanting almost none. Just a high water temp warning light, low water pressure warning light, fuel low light, shift light, surge tank low light and currently a tach, but really just a shift light is that is needed there. Then I can leave the rest to driving. On a street car it is different though, but it can be kept simple. Just some ideas out there for different things.
