Fling SLC Build Thread

One last thing...


ONE LAST THING I WANT TO MENTION... FOR THOSE WHO HAVE ELECTRIC DOORS. I HAVE A PIN THAT GOES THOUGH THE DOOR/ARM CONNECTION. THE PIN HAS AIRCRAFT WIRE SECURED TO IT WHICH TRAVELS THROUGH THE BODY INTO THE INTERIOR. IF A FIRE SHOULD OCCUR OR MY WIFE IS PISSED OFF AND I CANT GET THE DOORS OPEN, PULL THE WIRE HANDLE AND THE DOOR IS DISCONNECTED.
Can you show pics of this? When I tried this, the effort to pull the pin was too great when seated in the car.

But I'd really be happy to be shown how it can be made to work!
 
Can you show pics of this? When I tried this, the effort to pull the pin was too great when seated in the car.

But I'd really be happy to be shown how it can be made to work!
Car is at interior shop. When I get it back in 2 weeks, I'll get pics and post them.
 
Need a little help. Made my first very short trip in the car after getting back from the interior shop for preliminary fitment.Took it to the gas station for fuel. While the car made it, every time I would slow and push the clutch in... the engine would die. This occurred on every stop. Then when bringing it back into the garage, rough idle. 60 pounds on fuel pressure, filters look good. Thoughts?
 
Are you running any kind of signal to your VSS? I assuming an LS motor?

Just went to your first post, LS motor. This sounds like the symptoms that have been cured by folks running a Dakota Digital gps signal to their VSS.
 
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PeteB

GT40s Supporter
I had to get a custom tune done to solve the stalling issue. The tuner thought it had to do with the much smaller flywheel than the GM tune was set up for.
 
Thanks- a video of you pulling the pin would be impressive!
Will,
I have been "pulling the pin" with the door open. When closed, the tension is too much. I am considering slightly bending the bracket so a solid bar with a handle can go through to the cockpit. then the part that goes into the hinge bracket will be machined to a taper. Maybe that will allow pulling??? stay tuned
 
Oil temp running 220. Have an oil cooler. Recommended alarm temp?
Are you seeing that temperature while moving, or while stopped/idling? Do you have a thermostat on your oil cooler, if so, what temperature does it fully open?

Seems there's a huge amount of variance in what corvette and Camaro owners think is normal but from what I've pulled 220 is OK.

I found this and I'm on board with the recommended ranges:

What Is The Optimum Engine Oil Temperature? - Hot Rod Network

230-260 ideal, oil breakdown at about 275 (synthetic). Short trips up as high as 300 under extreme conditions but I would probably change my oil out if I was doing a track day and I hit 300F.

Keep in mind you do want oil temps to get up high enough that any moisture in the system can boil off.

Oil temps are expected to come down slightly once the engine is broken in and clearances open up.
 
Are you seeing that temperature while moving, or while stopped/idling? Do you have a thermostat on your oil cooler, if so, what temperature does it fully open?

Seems there's a huge amount of variance in what corvette and Camaro owners think is normal but from what I've pulled 220 is OK.

I found this and I'm on board with the recommended ranges:

What Is The Optimum Engine Oil Temperature? - Hot Rod Network

230-260 ideal, oil breakdown at about 275 (synthetic). Short trips up as high as 300 under extreme conditions but I would probably change my oil out if I was doing a track day and I hit 300F.

Keep in mind you do want oil temps to get up high enough that any moisture in the system can boil off.

Oil temps are expected to come down slightly once the engine is broken in and clearances open up.
Indeed I have a thermostat for my oil cooler... Improved Racing. 180 degrees. I will change my alarm to 245ish?
 
I would start there and be ready to nudge it up if you’re getting too many false alarms. The AIM system I use can be set to have an obnoxious alarm that obscures the dash if an alarm goes off, if yours the same way you’ll want the threshold high enough to be in real alarm territory to avoid excessive warnings; 245 seems like it’s still in the realm of normal operation based on the reading I did.
 
I should be getting my car back from body in the next week or so. It will be primed and blocked- ready for paint or wrap. Got good news... the Autometer LCD dash just had a software update. It now has high beam, and turn signal indicators. It already had odometer. A few things to do before interior- putting in larger gauge cable/wire from starter to battery, and installing new gated shifter. My intent is to put a few miles on it before it is either painted or wrapped.Light at the end of the tunnel. Already thinking about next project (Formula car of some kind?).
 
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