Fling SLC Build Thread

The little fans on the rear vents are a great idea. How much difference do you think they will make on the engine compartment temperature? Living in West Texas any cooling ideas are welcome. Great build !!!
 
The little fans on the rear vents are a great idea. How much difference do you think they will make on the engine compartment temperature? Living in West Texas any cooling ideas are welcome. Great build !!!
I have no idea... it just seemed like the right thing to do. They are triggered to come on at 200 degrees. Much like the front vents, I just liked how it looked. Hopefully it will help.
 
Took the car out for a spin in the hundred degree weather today. Had a few miscellaneous things that occurred.

My throttle pedal quit responding. I had to stop, and undo my Throttle at my pin connection . Then it worked fine again. The connection at my foot pedal, the pin connection, and the connection to the engine all looked good. I’m unclear why that occurred? This is not the first time it happened.

My water temperature was running at 190, but it would spike to 300 and set off my alarm. It would almost instantaneously go back to the 190 and then spike again. I feel comfortable that I was running around 190, but I’ve either have a bad sensor or a bad connection with that ?

Lastly I was getting an alarm on my oil temp. I think I’ve got my alarm set to low. I was running 213. my understanding is I can run around 280 to 300 on the oil temperature?

Beyond that it went well. I would love to have anyone’s input or feedback on my issues . The car definitely drew a crowd.

ADA56547-40A3-450E-A307-8CDE60479B8E.jpeg
5E6CD40C-C087-475D-89AD-4493D57E7638.jpeg
 
Great to see it on the road Mike, great job!
Sometimes lengthening the throttle pedal wiring can cause the ECU to throw a code a shut the pedal down. You can hook up a code reader and see if that is the issue.
Could be air pockets/steam causing the intermittent 300 degrees. They should purge out as long as your expansion tank is above engine level.
Oil temps will run around 240 degrees.
 
Great to see it on the road Mike, great job!
Sometimes lengthening the throttle pedal wiring can cause the ECU to throw a code a shut the pedal down. You can hook up a code reader and see if that is the issue.
Could be air pockets/steam causing the intermittent 300 degrees. They should purge out as long as your expansion tank is above engine level.
Oil temps will run around 240 degrees.
Thank you Allan. I never would’ve gotten to this point without your help, Craig Sinasac, and David Schlemmer . My interior guy is running behind and it’s off to get that accomplished Soon and then it’s about wrapped up. Thank you once again.
 
My throttle pedal quit responding. I had to stop, and undo my Throttle at my pin connection . Then it worked fine again. The connection at my foot pedal, the pin connection, and the connection to the engine all looked good. I’m unclear why that occurred? This is not the first time it happened.

My water temperature was running at 190, but it would spike to 300 and set off my alarm. It would almost instantaneously go back to the 190 and then spike again. I feel comfortable that I was running around 190, but I’ve either have a bad sensor or a bad connection with that ?
water temp - sounds like the system isn't fully bled yet

throttle pedal - have you lengthened the wiring harness? if so that could trigger it. Alternatively it could be a problem with the harness itself - I got a gmpp harness where the throttle pedal would randomly stop working. I returned it, got another harness and then no issues.
 
Congrats!
Agreed, temp spikes sound like air entrapment. Although in my case it usually shows up as a false low temp spike.

I see that you have your weatherstrip on the body itself rather than the door. How is this strategy working out? Leaks? Are you able to attain good door gaps particularly at the upper rear corners? The upper rear is the hardest to maintain a fully closed gap as (at least in my case) the seals keep it from fully closing.
 
Congrats!
Agreed, temp spikes sound like air entrapment. Although in my case it usually shows up as a false low temp spike.

I see that you have your weatherstrip on the body itself rather than the door. How is this strategy working out? Leaks? Are you able to attain good door gaps particularly at the upper rear corners? The upper rear is the hardest to maintain a fully closed gap as (at least in my case) the seals keep it from fully closing.
I just don't have enough time in the car to know.... hasn't gotten wet yet. I am working on door seals now as the interior is about to be installed and I wanted some idea of where we might be in the end.... stay tuned. Doors close fully and it appears to be sealed. It is the front of the door that seems to be my biggest problem.
 
The horizontal area of the front of the door is notoriously tight, with most having the seal getting rolled off the door when closing. Another issue is the inconsistency of door seal area gap, which makes it a real challenge to find ONE size seal to be used all the way around the door.
 
Top