fuel tank venting

Does anyone know if the sparco filler cap that comes with the kit is vented? If it is not are there any suggestions on venting the tank?
 
I'm using a modified Fuel Safe vent, connected to the vent bung on the tank. The plumbing goes tank -> vent -> carbon canister, though you could probably dispense with the canister and vent directly to the atmosphere if you didn't mind fumes in the garage, etc.

The vent allows air to freely pass through it, so air can escape when filling the tank, and air can be drawn in as the fuel is emptied. The valve also has a roll-over capability so if the car is upside down, fuel is prevented from escaping out the vent.

I've seen the Sparco filler cone modified with a welded-on barb that runs back to the tank, but I think I prefer the solution above.
 
I run a -8 hose upwards about 1.5-2ft, make an inverted U, then head downwards and just vent to the ground by the passenger side-scoop. I put a spare 40micron aeromotive filter inline, to prevent bugs, dirt, etc... from getting into it. I was initially going to use a roll-over valve, but after hearing stories of them getting stuck closed, etc... and not allowing proper venting I Just said f-it...I don't plan on flipping, and if I do flip, i'll have bigger problems (i.e., death).
 
Doug, you can buy them new, here is a chevy v8 can on ebay:
88-92 TPI Camaro Firebird Charcoal Emission Vapor Canister GM | eBay

I picked one up used for $20, they are all over ebay. It really helps cut the fumes. if you got a standard LS crate engine, the evap control will be deleted. you can have the ecu reflashed or get that new Chevy crate that has the Emissions codes in it. Also, i think the sparco is vented so that wouldnt hold your vaccuum
 
One comment on adding a carbon canister. It's only going to help with the fumes for a limitted time unless you have all of your smog controls in place. Normally, you have a solenoid on the engine that opens every so often to draw fresh air thru the cansiter, drawing the fuel vapors into the engine to be burned...which purges the vapors from the canister so that it can absorb more as the fuel tank vents. If you don't have this part hooked up to your canister, eventually the canister will fill with fuel vapors and start venting the fuel vapors to the atmosphere.......and you'll have the fuel smell the same as you would without the canister.
 
Thats what i figured would happen, i planned on defeating the ECU controlled evap valve and plumbing it into my intake vacuum. i didnt have to.

It cut fumes down 10x overnight and ive only blown it out with compressed air a few times last summer. I think because I left the one way valve on, it vents saturated fumes in but doenst allow them to escape? Dunno but when it works, i don't mess with it, I just moved onto other areas.
 
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