GT-Forte GTs40 build

Finally got round to welding up from the piece I cut out in Jan

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/35077-gt-forte-gts40-build-14.html#post398511



Just need to cap the end of the open tube

Then modified my 'development' seat to version 1.1.

Lopped off the top (might take a bit more off later)



then increased the length and decreased the slope of the 'ramp' on the bottom.


I just completed exactly the same step with the steering rack mounts as yourself. Seems very sturdy, seemed such a shame to cut the support rail.
 
Had a delivery today





Also removed part of the pedal box so it doesn't interfere with the downlink for the steering.

Before



After




It's a massively thick fabricated steel construction copied to look (nearly) the same as the cast magnesium design in the originals. Even with removing that section there is no significant loss of strength.
 
That certainly looks the business bud, hope you were as pleased as me when I received mine last week.

I'm hoping Darren has my Pedal Box and rear lower reverse 'A' Frames on there way as I am hoping for a busy weekend.

Best.


Nick.
 
David,
Who modified the throttle linkage to suit the Toyota 4 age TBs, on your inlet system...I have the same set-up but cobbled the mods myself & your,s puts mine to shame.
Cheers Eddie.
 
They're OBX, quality is patchy.

TB's and trumpets are beautiful, manifold isn't the best of casting or machining plus needed a bit of grinding to fit and will need some serious port matching.

Overall I'm happy for the price I paid, I was going to go motorcycle TB's and make up my own manifold, this (even with the work) is still far less work!
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
David, it appears the brakes m\c outlets are tied together with a tee fitting? If that's the case and permanant it will defeat the purpose of two m\c's.
 
Hi Tim, it's not permanent, that's just how they came (they're second hand SPF I think). I've left it that way until I plum it properly.
Also I thought that was the inlet rather than the outlet. :)
 
Thanks, Hopefully it will be when completed! :)

Anyway, trial fitted the itb's today. Touch of grinding as mentioned.

Trial fitted fuel rails also


Need to modify the rails and plan on making a 'turkey pan' and 'sealing' it to the rear clip.

Yes the engine is still filthy. :) No point cleaning/rebuilding it just yet though.
 

Keith

Moderator
Is that the 4.2 litre, Toyota, Lexus or the old 'Soarer' ?

What kind of numbers do you expect out of that lump?

Should sound quite nice although they are a cross plane crank I think?

Don't they run 5.7 litre Toyota V8's in Nascar now? Should be interesting to get hold of one of those lumps......
 

Keith

Moderator
Yes, Lexus LS400 / Soarer, 4.0 V8.

Cross plane crank, same firing order as the SBF. Will rev to 9k though.

Expect about 280-300hp to start with, a fair chunk more with some cams and porting. I'm not going massive power with it though.

Should sound nice - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d99eJ6ErWL8#t=18
Yes, nice engine. If you can get it to 400 that would be perfect...and you're not going to break a gearbox with it either.
 
Indeed, [email protected] is 438Nm, about bang on for the specified limit for the gearbox (450Nm). That's pretty high for NA though.

Plan is not to even open it up (apart from cam covers and maybe sump), get it on the road first then worry about tuning. Probably get cams (and springs), maybe some port work and leave at that.

If I want big power they're meant to be very good for turbocharging, as in ~550hp off stock unopened engines good.
 
Minor update (sorry didn't take pictures due to a lack of charge).

Got through an order of laser cut bits, I now have exhaust manifold flanges, "fuel cell" blanking plates[0] and most importantly door hinge bracket adjusters.

So I took the RHS sill top off, drilled for the bottom mounting plates, filled in the hole in the door I'd cut in the wrong place[1], clamped the top mount in place and trial hung the door. Now needs the spider sorting at the front but going to hang both doors and get the rear spacing and alignment right first. Then I can properly drill the spider and mount (with some adjustment possible still for the front/rear clip fitment).



[0] I bought 10 as it was cheaper than 2... Anyone want a pair!
[1] Classic example of don't make assumptions! I presumed that placing holes in the same relative places top and bottom would result in a vertical hinge. D'Oh! Oh well, good practice with fibreglass at least...
 
Started on proper door hinges.
RHS top


They'll be bolted in (with some load spreaders behind) and I'll fibreglass the space in between the plate and the door so they sit properly flat. I'll also need to add some extra fibreglass to the inside at the bottom. The door hinge area wasn't flat and in flattening it went through in one place so will need to build up inside.
 
Should do another update! :)

Once more not too much change, slowly but surely getting there though.

So as per my last update needed to add in some extra fibreglass to the inside at the bottom... Done!



So re-cut the holes to give the RHS bottom hinge


Which meant then I could construct an AIB



And hang the door...


Which then meant I had to align the spider which is where I'm at right now.
With the spider not bolted down it shuts beautifully but only lines up at the back, roof and A pillar are all wrong which worried me for a short while until I moved the spider into place and clamped it down. Now right door lines up well but won't quite shut, needs a few mm taken off the door top (the roof section) at the front as it catches on the roof as it closes.

The left door I've not got as far with but doesn't fit the gap due to being a few mm too long at the back. Don't want to start cutting that yet, going to get the hinge fitted first and turn the car round first (it's fitted tight up against the left wall atm).

Next stage is to verify the spider is exactly where I want and then drill/bolt it down. I think I shall be doing the same as others and trimming it down to a mounting section with aluminium sheet under it. I've already made the sheet.

Think I may weld in some more plate for bolting it to though as without it being full size not as many good solid bits of chassis to bolt to!

Then once the spider is 100% I can cut the door to shut/fit then fit the lock which then means I can properly attach the hinges...

Also got a few items through, tanks


Awaiting straps though so not the best of mounting yet! ;)



Rear radius arms


Rear reversed A-arms


Fuel Caps


Also got fuse box, washer kit and brake fluid reservoir (Still need another one for the clutch).

On an unrelated note I've changed my mind on how I plan on mounting the air-con, I was going to bolt it in both sides but that would mean it was there for life or would require drilling off a whole load of rivets to get at it. I've decided to mount one side on pins and bolt in the other. That should allow it to be removed if ever required.

After many many hours considering it also decided how to do the front bulkhead, I've been scratching my head whether to do it mid M/C or to move it forward and make the pedal box part of it. I figure can just about fit it in front of the M/C's.

Finally been looking into getting some seats made up, current plan is to make them like RCR's (and the originals) with a seat base and a removable back.
 
Had a day off work today so spent pretty much the day on the car.

First thing was a couple of panels, then in with the engine again so I could sort out the mounting brackets. It took me hours to get it in, now I've raised the car up I don't have enough height on the engine crane to get it over the horseshoe (actually first attempt I didn't have enough height to get the sump above the bottom of the chassis!)

With a bit of ingenuity I managed to get the engine closer to the arm so I could get it high enough, still had to thread the engine through the horseshoe rather than over but it's in again...





Ok so it's from the wrong side but this should be my rear view through the window!



Then onto getting the engine central and started on the brackets. One of the reasons I'd put this off for so long was both the length of time needed to put the engine in and I thought I'd need to remove and replace the engine a few times to get them located. Once in though I realised I've just about got enough space to drill pilot location holes and then I can do the bigger ones from the other side / off the car.
 
Wow, 9 Months since my last update. :(

Car has pretty much been on hold while we've done a loft conversion. Coming to the end now (although I still have a massive list of jobs to sort) and want to get some movement on the car again.

So, while I've done nothing actually on the car itself I've still been thinking about it and have made a few purchases.

Main thing is that I've decided to make my own uprights, front and back. I just don't like the front Granada ones with their massive compromises, ridiculous scrub and bendy spindles.

At the front I've decided to go with 350Z hubs and disks. The 350Z hubs are a Gen3 bearing/hub (inc speed sensor), they are pretty much the lowest profile ones I can find but are also suitable for a heavier RWD sports car so no issues with overloading them. The brake disks are 324mm x 30mm and because they are for a production car with a healthy "upgrade" / modification scene I can get off the shelf upgraded disks.

For the rear I'm going with Audi bearings, hubs and disks. Basically off a ~2004 A6 to match the gearbox which means my entire drive train should match OEM apart from driveshaft lengths (and angles!) The bearings are the same ones used up to the RS6, hubs are RS4 so should be plenty enough.
The disks are 312 x 25mm (vented)

I'm not 100% decided on calipers but I'm swaying towards HiSpec, Billet 4 Radial or Monster 4 Radial for the front and the SVA Billet 4 Universal Lug (with integrated handbrake) for the rear. Handbrake has been a pain as things like the Wilwood spot calipers don't go wide enough.

I've bought the hubs and brake disks for front and rear. Design for the rear uprights is 95% there (fabricated steel), Design for the fronts is 80% there (machined aluminium). Plan on buying some calipers this weekend at the Stoneleigh Kit Car show.

Only downside to going this route is that the front hubs use a stud mount with a PCD 114mm x 5 and the rears use bolt with a PCD of 112mm x 5. Shouldn't really make a difference though as I'm not going to be carrying a spare and the front/rear wheels wouldn't be interchangeable anyway. Only time it's going to be a pain is before I buy my proper wheels, I can't just get a cheap nasty set off ebay to roll round on I'd have to buy two sets!
 
I ATE'NT DEAD

So 16 months since my last update and I've just been slacking in updating this thread. Lots has happened.

So lets start off with seats.

I created aluminium seat backs and bases based on my "test" seat.


Seats are fixed although the backs hinge forward to allow access to behind, I'll probably knock up a bear-claw latch later but for now and IVA they're bolted to the bulkhead.

The bases (and seat back) attach on this structure which allows proper mounting of 6-point harness anti-submarine straps with correct location within 20° of vertically down from the torso. Although arguably a little close together the lack of distance to them and being so close to the floor makes it tricky to get much more separation.



I braced and closed up the front of the fuel filler area


The flange there should make it easy to put on a "hatch" to seal off that area for IVA.

Also welded a weld-nut to the chassis there to allow an earth strap to the tanks (you can just see the bolt in it at the moment peaking up in the bottom left corner)

Gear lever mounted


After some talk both here and in other places about roll cages on "street" cars I had a long hard think about it and after a sit in the car waving my noggin about and seeing that it was rather easy to hit it on the cage I decided to remove it.

Thing is though that I *might* want to take it on the track later in which case a cage would be nice....

So, out came the cage along with the stub tubes onto the rear hoop and in it's place I welded this.





It sit's almost flush to the rear bulkhead but allows a bolt in cage at a later date if I so desire.

So, now the rear bulkhead is 99% finished, window hole cut etc.



Oh and lower bulkhead also



Fuel tank mounts created. Lower:



and upper


Also all the tank straps but I don't seem to have a photo of those.

Tunnel all created



Along with front bulkhead (not yet cut for "services")


Floor cut out, marked up, pilot drilled, fitted, drilled and drilled again... Going with 4.8mm rivets for the floor. 4mm almost everywhere else.



Plus lots and lots of panelling which I have taken few pictures of.

My rear uprights turned up so started on some adapters to fit the Audi bearings/hubs



Finally I've had lots of parts arrive of which I appear to have taken no pictures... Only one, warning lights and switches
 
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