GTD40 Restoration

[Andy]

Hi Bill,
My rad cap is only 13 lbs, perhaps too low indeed.
The plan is indeed to have an expansion tank installed (temporary using the plastic can).

Another question. The starter which came with the car is old and tired one. The new battery was only just able to crank it, perhaps the power cables give too many resistance but when I hooked another battery to it, it started so I guess it needs a lot of starter power to kick it alive.
What is a recommend starter for a GTD40 Ford302-Renault UN1 combination ?
From the shape, I thought I didn't recognised it as a Ford V8 starter and guessing it is a Ford v6 starter ? From which car did it came. Granada v6 ?

 

[Andy]

Replaced the reservoir cap to the one you mentioned, on my other v8, had this cap, same brand and setting, and now no spills anymore, remains nice on temperature. Happy with the progress.
Ran the engine for 25 minutes, gonna check the spark plugs later when it cooled down.
To be sure, want to check if the cam and lifters are still healthy and properly break-in, is there a way to check them without removing the inlet Manifold ?

Trial fitted the rear hood, due to the new rollbars, need some small modification and cutout.

Found out the starter is working when I rotate the engine a little bit, so some internal rotors probably are dirty. Need to open it.

 

[Andy]

Does anyone know which starter is being used on the GTD40 ?

 

[Andy]

Starter partnumber is 73GB11000AA.
73GB11000AA was used on Ford Escort MkII, Granada 1.6 1981-1985
Delco DRS0400 equivalent.

When I search the web, it shows a starter with 3 bolts to fix to the engine while this one has only 2. Are the GTD40 starters modified to have only 2 bolts ?

 

[Andy]

Opened the starter partly, only the rear endcap. Looked clean inside like it was already revised. When hooking up straight to the battery, the jumpercables felt really hot, looks like it is pulling too much amperage. Looking to replace it, who can tell me which one I need to order ?

 

[Ian Anderson]

Hi Andy

I had heard about that problem with some GTD era cars

There was a geared starter motor made that worked extremely well, however I do not have any details to hand.

I seem to recall the name racemettle and googled this

Starter Motors

Could be worth an e mail to them

Ian

 

[Pierre-Louis]

Andy,

I have an early GTD too, and when I had to change the starter motor, I gave a call to Mick Sollis at Southern GT, sent him a pic of the hole in the gearbox (I lost the starter motor on the highway !), and received a new hi-torque unit, which had been an immediate and perfect fit...

IIRC, not more expensive than on other websites (and kindly, a fast shipping on my specific request).

 

[Andy]

After some more investigations...
Looks like it is a Ford Essex v6 used in Capri's.

High Torque Starter, FORD GT40 replica/Essex V6, Marcos, Scimitar GTE, TVR V6 - from Racetorations UK

or here

Ford Essex V4 & V6

I noticed also that the key lock burns in at the start position, probably better to add an extra relay in between the key lock and the solenoid of the starter to be safe.

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Andy,
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[Andy]

Start chasing a ghost in the starter section of the wiring loom.
Within the wiring, an alarm is fitted called "laserline 921K".
Laserline 921K

Sometimes, when turning the key for starting is not being responded by the starter solenoid. No click. While I can see the alarm is disabled. When I shut it down (power off the alarm), come back next day and try, it works.
After a while, it may refuse to start the car again.
When I provide the solenoid starter direct power 12V from the alternator, the starter is enthusiastic turning over now (done a compression test on the engine without the spark plugs). No hesitation like it now seems to have enough power for cranking. Wish it did this when the spark plugs are in.
The compression test was good (all within 150-160 psi).
First I suspected the key lock internally to be burned and give an irratic contact. Now it seems to be in a good shape checking with the multi meter.
Could it be the alarm is playing tricks with me and not letting through enough power to the solenoid (12V but not enough amperage) ? The wire size is little bit smaller as the normal GTD wiring cable. Don't know how the alarm works inside, with a standard relay internally of electronically ?

 

[Andy]

Currently resting the ghost and ordered new keylock.
Meantime resolved the hazard functioning.
The blinkers were working but as soon as the hazard switch was pushed, the blinkers kept on. Traced the messy wires and found out the hazard switch was incorrectly connected and bypassing the relay. Removed all the connection and wired it as it should be and works like a charm. Always rewarding to resolve this small issues :drunk:

Now focussing on the rear wheel setup and rims.
I noticed the rear rims are scraping the brake calipers.
The rims are HB501 Compomotive
Measured width between both outer edges of the rim.
W= 273 mm = 10.75" (is this possible correct?)
T=127mm = 5"
ET=10 mm = 0.5"
I red the width on GTD40 on the rear is 9" standard ?

The brake disc height between disk and the face of the rim = 23 mm
Perhaps this dimension should be higher to clear the brake caliper so needs another type of brake disc ?

The reartyres are 265/50VR15 COMP T/A BF Goodrich (had is time so will be replaced but 265 is not available anymore).
Checked clearance and I still have 10 mm clearance inner and outer side.

Planning to buy new set of rims and tyres anyway.
Which part of the setup is incorrectly and should be changed ?

 

[Andy]

Other topic.
Let the engine run warm.
Everything okay.
Idles nicely around 800 rpm.

I noticed when I open the rear deck/boot/lid whatever we call it,
the rpm goes upto 1000 rpm because it gets more fresh air....
when I close it, take a few seconds and it drops back to 800 rpm again.
Just wondering if its me alone or typical gt40.

Looks like at idle, there is not enough supply of fresh air for the engine and the engine really has to work harder to suck air in.

And another question;
Looking for a low profile oil breather.
Needed to smash the standard ford oil breather to fit under the hood/bonnet/rear deck/backflip/tail/... :laugh:
Just looking to connect some oil breather tubes to it...perhaps a fram pcv valve plug ?

 

[Ian Anderson]

Hi

If you swap rocker covers left and right the breather will be at the front, that may give it more clearance to the rear "clip"

Perhaps also when you close the clip it pinches the breather or pipe work causing a restriction and hence change of engine revs or perhaps even something simple like the routing of the accelerator cable that pulls slightly with clip open or closed

Ian

 

[Andy]

Hi Ian,
Both covers are identical, so if you swap them, the position of the breather valve remains the same or do you mean something else ?
During closure, nothing is blocked, just more air is able to access the carburator.
Regards
Andy

 

[Bill Musarra]

Andy,
I have to say that if your breather is as small as It appears, then the motor is sitting a little high to not clear the rear tray. I have a 90 degree AN fitting that goes to a remote catch can, and it clears with about an inch from the tray(351 Windsor like yours). However there is a cure that isn't too difficult. Swap your valve covers. It will move the breather to the front of the engine. Another solution is to find shorter valve covers. I could not see it, but do you have an oil filler hole on the other cover?? I have one of the push in caps on mine. It only sits about an inch away from the cover. Measure the height of your parts to see if the mew locations will fix the interference. If it still sits too proud then a shorter motor/trans mount is one answer. If that is to drastic then construct a new tray that is high enough for the clearance. Just involves a little fiberglass work. Hope these suggestions gets you going.
On the idle issue. There is no way that your air flow is that much different. Your intake area is not isolated from all air sources. Look for the accelerator cable being interfered with somewhere along the path by the rear clip being lowered. As an experiment. take your air filter off and put your hand over the carb inlet and see how much you have to cover to get the motor to slow down that much.

Bill

 

[Andy]

Hi Bill,
These valve covers have just holes for plug in style oil breathers.
On each valve cover, the left side has a hole.
I could plug off the right valve cover and use the other one to ventilate/breath but prefer using both as a venting point.
Just looking for some standard plug in types style breather cap which are very low profiles. I thought the standard PCV valves from FRAM, are suitable but not sure. Perhaps other shapes, brands if someone is familiar with ?
Welding a AN style is an option but for now looking for a simple plug in type.

The height of the engine is the standard GTD height. Lowering the engine is only possible f.e. with Southern GT new rear end frame. Not opted for this option (for now) but still can modify this later in case it is needed.

With regards the air...I did the test without airfilter so I could see if something was going on with cables and hoses. When I close the lid, it slowly drops the idle to 800 rpm like it consumes the oxygen from the air. When I open the lid, idle goes up like it is gasping fresh air and rpm goes up to 1000. It was a damp,light rain and chill day, not much wind.
Time will tell, just wondering if someone experienced the same and if it was a common thing. Looks like it is just me :drunk:

 

[Jac Mac]

Those rocker covers are junk, they have no baffleing inside to prevent oil being thrown directly at the breather or PCV and would cause you further issues with smoke/oil consumption if you continue to use them without baffleing . You would be better off with a couple of painted standard ford items or higher quality aftermarket ones that will clear the rockers etc and fit a PCV valve where the 'crushed breather is currently fitted.

With regard to idle speed... as you do not appear to have an air box around the carb its quite likely that with the rear clip closed the headers quickly raise the air temp in that area.

 

[Andy]

Hi Jac,

Luckly, they do have some baffling.
See pictures.
M/T ones would be nice for Christmas.
You can see the low profiles breather plugs on it, but since they are internally corroded, I will not use them and the fitment of the hose was not really fluid tight :laugh:

Higher Air temperature, that is indeed a good cause for reducing idling.
Do you noticed this effect aswell ?

Finished the interior. Back to the 80's style. Came with the car and is still in a good condition. next upgrade is to go fully black. sAinta claus ?

 

[Jac Mac]

Hi Jac,

Luckly, they do have some baffling.
See pictures.Yes they look good , but they are not, when you fit a PCV it can get pushed down against the baffle and any oil that sits on top of that baffle gets sucked into the motor, the owner eventually tears the whole motor apart thinking the rings are crap or the valve guides are stuffed and during the process someone sells him a set of better rocker covers and the problem is solved and the real cause flicked off to someone else to start the process over again.
M/T ones would be nice for Christmas.
You can see the low profiles breather plugs on it, but since they are internally corroded, I will not use them and the fitment of the hose was not really fluid tight :laugh:Have you ever wondered why they are corroded...??... likely that due to no PCV and poor breathing of the crankcase when running that condensation is present and settling in the mesh inside those breathers after shutdown to corrode quietly while your sleeping..

Higher Air temperature, that is indeed a good cause for reducing idling.
Do you noticed this effect aswell ? Too many times, I have lost count of the number of cars that have gained considerable power when you simply supply them with cool fresh air, usually after an owner has spent thousands on other bling bling crap.

Finished the interior. Back to the 80's style. Came with the car and is still in a good condition. next upgrade is to go fully black. sAinta claus ?

You mention in a previous post about the mod to drop the transaxle/modify rear sub frame.... why don't you shift that to the top of your to do list!

 

[Bill Musarra]

I just saw the good pic of your engine. Your oil filter is just tooo tall. It is higher than a 10AN 120 degree fitting. You might want to take a serious look at these. If this is your valve cover hole size?
Rubber Oil Baffle Grommet for Steel Valve Cover 1 25" OD 1" ID | eBay

Bill