Howard B's RCR 40

[Howard Beck]

Jack, here's tonight's offering...

Parking Brake Calipers and Hand Brake Mounting​

Tools:
5/16” and two smaller drill bits
Electric variable speed hand drill
Workmate bench as a vice
3/8” X 16 Tap (Craftsman)
10mm hex head socket 3/8” drive
3/8” ratchet with 3” extension
1 7/16” socket 1/2” drive
½“ drive ratchet
Penetrating oil
Greenlee multi-sized drill bit.
Appropriate sized open end wrenches
Allen wrench
Rotary tool and grinder tip

Supplies:
Four 3/8 - 16 X 1” stainless steel hex head cap screws
Four 3/8 stainless steel washers
Wilwood parking brakes (RCR supplied)
Brake caliper mounting brackets (RCR supplied)
Painters tape
Hand brake assembly (RCR supplied)
Stainless steel button head screws for the mounting frame and attaching the handle (two 5/16th x ¾ inch and four ¼ X ¾)

Procedure:

1. Follow the instructions in the RCR build manual. I used tape on the drill bits as a marker set at 1 inch depth to know when to stop drilling.
2. Exception: The brake caliper spacer had too small bolt holes which I drilled out on the drill press and polished for better presentation.
3. Second exception, I will need to purchase four more caliper bolts for the spacers. The originals are slightly too short with the new spacers in place on the larger brake disc. The lock washers won’t fit comfortably on the bolts. Maybe Lok-tite will do the trick(?)
4. Test out brake lever action and adjust and pads with the adjustment bolt on the back allowing for good lock down and release of the caliper.
5. Secure the adjustment bolt with the locking nut against the back of the caliper.
6. Follow the RCR instructions for mounting the hand brake handle assembly.
7. Drill the holes in the firewall and the back inboard part of the chassis where they exit to the parking brake calipers.
8. One hole in the mounting frame was not quite in line, the rotary tool and grinder tip were use to lengthen the forward hole on the mounting bracket to allow attachment of the brake handle to the bracket.
9. After assembly of the handle assembly and mounting bracket place it in the appropriate position spine tunnel and mark the floor for drilling the holes to attach the entire assembly to the floor.
10. Make sure the brake will engage correctly and can be adjusted to operate properly before bolting it to the floor.
11. Drill the attachment point holes as marked and attach the assembly.
12. Attach and tighten all the cable points as needed.
13. Do not over drill the holes for the cables as noted in the RCR build manual.


Time required: 7 hours. The time didn’t include rounding up the tap & die set (I don’t have one) and getting a 10mm hex head socket. That was another 2 hours of chasing around.
Total: 9 hours

 

[Howard Beck]

The rest of the pics...

 

[Howard Beck]

Door latch catch Pins​

Tools:
Table saw
Drill bits
Painter’s masking tape
Drill Press
Pencil
Tape measure
Allen wrench

Supplies:
Two 1” X 3” X ¾” pieces of oak to model door pin mounts
Door latch pins (from RCR)
Four button head hex cap screws ¾” long

I modeled the door pin mounting bases in wood (oak) since I don’t have ready access to metal bending and machining equipment. Working in wood I can fabricate part mock ups quickly and correct errors immediately. I will take the mock ups and replicate them in metal at a friend’s metal shop. The mock ups are strong enough to temporally use for construction and alignment of the door. I also use wood for the door hinge shims because I could shape them as needed.

Procedure:

1. Measure the mounting base thickness from inside the car with the door closed, remember to accommodate the washer thickness for the latch pin.
2. Cut the oak blocks to the size of the mounting blocks required to mount latch pins.
3. Drill the center hole in the blocks to insert the latch pins, done with three different size bits to control the small pieces of wood on the drill press. I allowed the pin room to self tap into the hole in the oak. Use a drill bit 1 size smaller than the diameter of the thread of the pin for tapping purposes.
4. Measure off and drill two holes, one on each side of the latch pin hole, for the firewall mount of the latch pin base and drill them to accommodate button head mounting screws through the firewall. I used the self tapping technique above.
5. Trial fit the firewall mounting screws in the mounting block from the opposite side of the latch pin.
6. Remove the screws after they have been properly fitted.
7. Screw the latch pin into the center hole.
8. Get in the car with the latch pin (mounted in the base) and painters tape and close the door completely.
9. With the latch in the open position insert the latch pin, center it, and push in to close the latch.
10. Press the latch pin mounting base to the firewall facing in the direction and position you prefer.
11. While holding the base to the firewall in the centered position for correct door closing outline the block with pieces of the painter’s tape on two adjacent sides of the block.
12. Release the door latch from inside the door while holding the block.
13. Open the door, get out, then hold the block to the firewall exactly in the tape outline and drill one mounting hole in the firewall through the one of holes already drilled in the block
14. Clean and size the firewall hole as needed.
15. With the block press to the firewall in the correct position insert and screw in the first screw.
16. Test align the door closing to confirm it will strike in the right place.
17. Drill the second hole through the block, and attach it as the first was done.
18. Close the door gently for a trial operation and push it until the door latches.
19. Release the latch from inside the door.


Time required: 5 hours.

 

[Jack]

Very well done Howard! Keep 'em coming.

 

[artd]

Howard,

Great build. I cant wait to see pics of your engine...


Art

 

[Howard Beck]

I have had a bug for the past couple of days. I seem to be over it today, so I am back at it. Time for another post.

This is quite simple but very effective. You will see. From simple minds come simple things?

Door Handle and Latch hook up​

Tools:
Wire cutters
Needle nose pliers

Supplies:
Four steel key rings approximately 1” in diameter (key rings were “give a-ways” handed out at trade shows)
Two 3” long springs the width of a pencil with long hooks on the ends (from the local hardware)

Procedure:

1. Link two key rings together.
2. Remove the door handle and insert one of the key rings in the hole on the handle lever.
3. Place the handle back in the door.
4. Attach the second key ring into the hole in the release lever of the latch from inside the door.
5. Cut the springs to an appropriate shape and length to attach in the slot of the handle securely and attach the other end under one of the mounting screws to the door latch to create a door handle return action.
6. Do trials, closing the latch and opening with the handle.
7. Adjust the spring length and key rings as needed.
8. Close the door gently for a trial operation and push it until the door latches.
9. Release the latch with the door.


Time required: 5 hours. (The time doesn’t include other attempts, this was not my first solution, but was the best and simplest so far.)


I will think about installing locks later.

 

[Howard Beck]

One heck of a tedious job....I am glad it's over. I do need to set up the Heli-coils prior to painting. This was just to get the windows and lamp covers squared away. (or is that rounded away?)

Window and Headlamp Cover Fitting & Mounting​

Tools:
Belt Sander
Work-mate bench
Dremel Tool
Painters tape
Wet erase marker (Fine point)
Electric variable speed hand drill
Drill bits (one larger and one smaller than the screw threads)
Allen wrench
Small vice grips
Tape measure
Measuring caliper
Sanding block

Supplies:
6-32 X 3/8 inch button head stainless steel screws
80 grit sanding belt
One ½” od X ½ in. nylon washers, with a 3/8” id.
Windows (from RCR)
Headlamp and driving light covers (from RCR)

Notes:

I didn’t follow any particular build from the web. It probably resembles most of them since it is a pretty straight forward operation that does require patience. I didn’t have any glitches but I took my sweet time to avoid mistakes. The job is a tedious and was a little physically uncomfortable. If I were to do it again I would raise my B&D Work-mate to a more comfortable working height with some blocks or lumber to avoid stooping for long periods sanding down the windows and covers. I mounted my belt sander in the B&D Work-mate vice to sand down the excess plastic on the windows and covers. This was the most time consuming task in the process.

Procedure:

1. The windows and light covers from RCR are closely shaped to specs. That is a good head start. I taped the right window on to the door to closely match two sides of the window opening as possible. I made sure the window completely covered the opening on all sides.
2. Using the wet erase marker I traced out the upper corners of the window directly on the window.
3. Using the painters tape and starting at the end of the wet marker lines I had drawn in the corners I followed the window opening edge from one corner to the other laying the tape to the inside of the window opening.
4. I cut and sanded to the lines and the tape. These were my rough in “stop” limits.
5. I laid the window in the door for a check fit for this one edge/side, making some adjustment sanding for a better fit.
6. Then I set the window in the proper place, taped it down to avoid shifting while marking.
7. I used steps 3, 4 and five for the other sides, along with doing constant trial fits after each sanding operation.
8. After the widow was completely sanded and fit the opening nicely I laid the painters tape in the edges of the window recess of the door for marking screw hole locations.
9. I determined my screw hole locations and measured out the distances with the caliper measuring tool and marked the painters tape with a “+” at each screw location.
10. Following this the window was simply taped back into place in the opening. No marks necessary on the glass.
11. With the drill and a bit one size smaller than the width of the screw threads all the holes were drilled through the window and into the door. The tape held the window without any shifting allowed, and I used my left hand on the window for added security.
12. I removed the window from the door (again) then drilled the holes a larger than the screw size in the window for the wiggle room. Do not do this in the door.
13. Next I tapped the holes in the fiber glass using a cap head screw clamped in the tip of the vice grips. I tried using the Allen wrench which was too cumbersome and slow. It also stripped the heads out of several screws (POA). The vice grips worked well as a thread tapping tool and only required a minimal effort to tap each hole. The entire job took quite a while to complete.
14. I mounted all the windows for final fit purposes.

Time required: 15 hours :blank::blank::blank:

 

[Howard Beck]

More pics from the last post of window fitting...

 

[Howard Beck]

Headlamp cover fitting... more pics

My life is more exciting than than these vanilla posts...I hope someone is able to use these posts. It feels like I am writing a "Building Cars for Dumbies" book. You can joke about, it I do! :laugh::laugh::laugh:

 

[Jack]

Howard, you are flying through! Great work, your posts are inspiration for some of us to get off our tails and get to work! I've been dreading one task for a few days and your posts simply forced me to face the fear and do it. Turned out it wasn't as trying as I thought and came out perfect. Thanks!

 

[Howard Beck]

Thanks Jack,

My hang up seems to be electrical...I feel like I am swimming in peanut butter. I have just knuckled down and started working though it one wire at a time.

How's that SLC coming along?

Cheers,

 

[Jack]

Recent attention has been poking holes in the gearbox case for oil cooler/pump/filter
that I wish to use. Ignoring the direction of electron movement at the moment. My engine harness, ECU, TAC module, etc. ready to go though. Evil thoughts of panelling part of my engine bay to hang stuff on and making ducting to my oil coolers.

 

[Rob]

Howard,
Good idea mounting the belt sander. I had considered buying a bench mount belt/disc sander from Harbor Freight just to make this job easier.....but ended up doing it all by hand with a long sanding board. I think your approach used more available "grey matter". I'll follow your lead next time. :embarassed:

 

[Howard Beck]

Hi Rob,

It's left over methods from wood working on numerous furniture projects. One day I'll break my piggy bank open and buy some of the tools you have.

Did your car sell?

 

[Rob]

Hey.....I used the long sanding board....I could use more tools too.....:laugh:

Yep...she's gone. Bitter sweet. I miss her already :sad:

 

[Howard Beck]

Well it's time to wake my build thread up. I have been quite busy at work so car work has slowed. I managed to mount my headlamps, and bought some fog lamps, yadda, yadda, a little thing here another little there. It's coming together.

The big news is I picked up my engine from the builders a week ago today. The boys set it up and punched in the ignition button at it fired right to life! I videoed the start, this will be sweet. It's the new Boss 302 block, aluminum heads, and the Dynatek Classic EFI. Wahooo! The video is high mega pixel so I'm not sure how to post it (I'll figure it out). Anyway, here are some picks of the new born. Don't ask me the HP, it hasn't been dynoed. The engine builder said it should come in at around 500hp maybe as high as 525hp. More than I will possibly need!

Tennis anyone? :laugh::laugh:

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

That will certainly make her scoot.....

 

[Bill Musarra]

Howard,
I know its early on but you will want to do something with your fuel rail. It apears too close to the exhaust. You might want to consider transposing the stacks to the opposite sides and run the fuel line on the inside. Makes it shorter and pulls it away from the exhaust. If that is not an option then a shield of somesort should be considered.

Bill

 

[Howard Beck]

Bill,
Good eye! I knew a smart GT40 guy would pick up on that. The engine builder followed the instructions for a Cobra, since there weren't instructions for a GT40. He didn't think about it even though I mentioned it to him. All the bodies need to be swung around 180 degree then the accelerator linkage will be on the right side since I have an RHD. It's set for a front engine car.

This should be an easy fix. (famous last words?)

I will need to see if I have to synch up the throttle bodies again.

I may have it reversed this evening.

Thanks,
Howard

 

[Howard Beck]

Bill,

The fuel rail will still be the same way but pulled up an tucked towards the inside and held with a bracket. It still may need a shield of some sort.

Cheers,