The port coming out on the right side behind the throttle body is the one that connects to the valley cover.
The left side port is the one for the EVAP that gets plugged if not using.
Not a big mistake though. They are both just vacuum ports behind the throttle body.
An exhaust leak before the oxygen sensor can severly affect the O2 readings on that bank.
Alex I'd swap coil packs from one side to the other for a test.
are you sure about the ports because in Dean's thread you said the opposite
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/366462-post144.html
I've got #3 (left side of throttle body, with intake manifold reversed) connectd to #5 (valley cover) and #1 (right side of tb, w/ intake manifold reversed) plugged
Headers are bolted on tight, no signs of leaks around them. I do have a Burns 4 into 4 slip fit connection before the O2 bungs on each side, but they're clean ... no steam coming from them and no exhaust crap spit out from them
I'm pretty sure this is open/closed loop related (so some very weird mechanical problem). Here's what I've found
- Car is cold; start car, exhaust pulses on each side are even and strong. Each side you can evenly hear the cam going thump thump thump
- Car warms up (e.g., 180*) everything is fine.
- Car gets to 195* (plus or minus a few) the exhaust pulses on the passenger side immediately stop and it becomes abreeze of air, not a strong pulse. Also, the cam sound stops on the passenger side....you can hear it strongly on d/s, but not passenger
- turn car off, wait a few seconds, turn it back on, no different - weak exhaust pulse on passenger side (just feels like a gentle breeze of air, not a strong push out) and no cam sound. Almost liek the cylindres arn't firing
- turn car off, wait 5-10minutes. Water temp drops from 195* to 170ish (for example). Start car, everythign is good - exhaust pulses even and strong, I can hear the cam sound. Stand behidn the car and when the dash reads 195 the exhaust pulses stop form the passenger side and the cam sound stops as well. It's almost like the passenger side isn't firing, even though it is.
- turn car off, turn back on, same story.
- turn car off, wait 10 minutes for temps to drop 10-15*, turn car back on, everything is good until the dash reads 195 again.
i can't see this being mechanical - if it were a case of the engine heating up and loosing compression (or something) why would waiting 5-10minutes make it better. Once warm you'd think it would be a constant problem. It's far too suspicious it's always at 195* (which is when the ecu goes into closed loop mode). Never 185 or 190, but 195 according to my dash readout