Fuel pumps
I have made an important transition. It has taken this long to realize that - unlike the Cobra where 4000 people had done it before - there are few people who have gone where this combo is leading me. I think I finally have gathered the nerve to break a wee bit of new ground.
Running an EFI adds complexity, as has been discussed. Despite the nice internal baffles, I decided to plan for a lot of fuel sloshing and build a system that will reliably deliver fuel to the rails. The money I spent on the Kinsler intake is coming back now, as Earl at Kinsler is an amazingly patient teacher, and a true guru.
I have twin in-tank OEM style pumps with 45 micron pre-filters that feed into a vapor separation tank (also from Kinsler) as a swirl pot. From here, fuel is drawn by a more robust pump through a 25 micron filter, and pushed through a 10 micron filter to the rails. The fuel rails are plumbed in parallel, not sequence, which is a bit of a Kinsler thing. More on that after the motor is back in.
I could find no one that makes an off-the-shelf bracket for the in-tank pumps so that they would slide into a hole with a three inch plate. So I bought blank plates from Pegasus (special order, Fuel safe) and fabbed my own with some aluminum angle. I drilled the plates for the -6an bulkhead fitting and the electrical leads.
I cut teflon bushings to slip into the holes and used teflon washers to isolate the brass screws for the power leads and seal them. I was amazed at how little clearance there was. By the time I converted the -6an to a 5/16 hose (typical output on an OEM pump, but not on a race pump) I had about 2 mm to spare. The filter "foot" is a hair above the bottom of the tank. I had to splice the wires, and I was not sure about the longevity of my heat shrink tubing in gas (it did fine in a 3 day submersion test) so I ran the wires through short sections of fuel hose. That way, even if the heat shrink falls apart, the wires are both isolated.
I think the pumps look like home-made bombs. Let's hope they don't behave like that
I am using the line on the fuel gauge sending units as my return line.
After doing a lot of reading, I changed from the standard tanks vents. I wanted as few lines as possible in the cabin, so I plugged the 1/8 NPT fittings by the filler hoses and added ball-valve roll-over fittings to the rear of the tanks. I used -8an valves. This should allow me to fill the tanks at regular pump speed instead of dribbling it in. Going on the advice of Fuel Safe, I will run a line up as high as I can go, make a loop like a pigtail, and then run it down below the bottom of the tank. That way, if the car does roll over, the end of the hose is above the tank. I have internal check valves for the low end of the hose. You want to be sure that nothing can obstruct this line. If you do not have a working vent, the pump will pull a vacuum and your fuel supply will stop.
I still have a few more things to do to get the chassis ready for the final motor install.