Keith Baker's Southern gt on the build

[David]

You need an immobiliser of some kind. It can be mechanical (NOT operating on the brakes) or electrical.

from the latest IVA manual, section 13A:
http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/Transport_files/124_IVA_M1_Inspection_Manual_Version_1111.pdf

Check, in addition to the normal “ignition” switch, that the vehicle is permanently fitted with an anti-theft device or an electronic immobiliser that can be activated to prevent the vehicle being driven or moved under its own power.

A mechanical anti-theft device could be a steering lock or transmission lock. An electronic immobiliser can be activated by the ignition key (so would not be obvious) or could be separate - activated by a little fob type device

A manually operated battery master switch or a removable steering wheel would not be considered to be an anti theft device.

 

That looks correct David . The Toad Immobuliser is a neat east fit unit and only cost about £119 and meets the criteria of the IVA and Insurance.
Will post install details when done

Cheers, keep well and keep building

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

Awesome build, Keith --re:- engine mounts, would suggest something like these FORD V8 CLEVELAND WINDSOR HEAVY DUTY ENGINE MOUNT XW XY | eBay

As the torque from the trans tends to lift the motor resulting in rubber seperation of the OEM mounts --from my experience

 

Thanks Chris for that info, I'll have some thoughts on that. Cheers.

As discussed the wiring loom for the 8 stack injection was huge. Care would be needed to cut out excess wiring and circuits not needed and this is beyond my capabilities.
I have had this done by someone else, remaking the wiring at the connectors and the result appears to be far better.
Some of the loom will be seen above the manifold and what was not cut away is hidden in the drivers engine bay area.
The ECU is also in there with wiring for the laptop exiting into the car for future setting up.
Although there are shortages for completing the fuel system, the drivers side pumps can be finished.
The Aeromotive NRV will be installed from the tank and before the filter thereby hopefully keeping the filter and the pump primed with fuel.
The fuel regulator will be mounted on the bulkhead somewhere

 

[MICK.(southerngt)]

Hi keith you need to swop the throttle bodies around so that the throttle position sensor is at the front of the engine on drivers side .
regards mick.

 

Hi Mick, Dont understand, I'm a bit thick with Injection systems !

 

Please explain
Better View ?

 

[MICK.(southerngt)]

Hi keith will send you some pics by email tommorow dont know how to post pics on gt40s.You can leave it where it is but the plastic will get very hot as its close to exausts we move it to the front to get it out of the way .
regards mick.

 

The throttle cable is run and fixed at the pedal box area, runs down the inner cill and keeps low to the manifold to avoid the exhausts. Will be heat shielded later once the pipes are in.
Extra wiring has been installed for any auxillary items.
Capillary oil pressure pipe will run down the passenger inner cill to the dash gauge.
Lambda sensor will be fitted to the exhaust silencer box which SGT are making ASAP which will be early January.
Exhausts are planned to be Ceracote satin silver.
Made the inside covers for the rear lights in carbon fibre as I have some spare offcuts.
I'm having the 2 rear deck grilles next to the exhaust outlets made in aluminium by this guy lewis, he's a genius with fabrication, one of the english wheel brigade.
Looking at a rear spoiler and front deck canards after IVA.
I have ordered decals from Raceline Digital but I will use what I can as patterns for having them painted on, not Vinyl.

 

Hi Mick, Wait to see the pictures Cheers.
Can the throttle sensor not be heat shielded or is it easy to move ?
Speak tommorrow

'When MICK replies and it makes you feel like God is looking down on you'

 

[Frank Catt]

Keith, as Mick says, you must move the throttle position sensor, but I also suggest you move the fuel pressure regulator as well, you are going to run into all sorts of problems where it is, the ali body of that unit will swell with heat and seize the internal valve very quickly, I would turn the whole system around and keep it as cool as possible, Frank

 

[flatchat(Chris)]

Just imagine a big hot air gun set at around 300°C blowing hot air from the back of the motor towards the front--right about where you have all those heat sensitive thingys (thats from experience as well)

 

Howdi all,
The regulator will be moved it's going on the bulkhead it's only shown where it was when dyno'd and to lazy to move it yet.
Point taken about the plastic bits, There'l be gone before you blink !
Trouble is I need the exhausts and there's a small delay till January.
" I must try harder but my age is against me"

 

WOW Chris 300 deg that's hotter than my wife on a friday night after she's had a bottle and a half of wine

 

[Nick]

The Toad Immobuliser is a neat east fit unit and only cost about £119 and meets the criteria of the IVA and Insurance.
Will post install details when done

Cheers, keep well and keep building

Keith,

I was going to do the same, although if you have an insurance company in mind it may be worth checking with them as I know for my current everyday car my insurance company insisted the I had a cat one alarm fitted with a certificate showing it was fitted by a professional, (not that you aren't but you know what I mean),

Although the car is on a classic policy and sits on the drive so that may make a difference.

 

Hi Nick,
The Immobiliser chap will fit this and certificate supplied, it only takes a couple of hours with the dash not in place so expect about £ 50 or so as he's £ 25 per hour.
Weird but recieved invoice for toad imm. of £ 42.00
Hopefully it's that cheap, will let you know.

 

The fuel system on the driver side is getting there, still got to decide the best route for the tank air bleed / rollover valves and the fuel return lines.
The water pipe route is all but decided and the best option for the water temp. sender will be to weld a 1/8" threaded block in the ally down pipe. It could go elsewhere but once the down pipe is fixed it will be out of the way.
Getting tighter for space everywhere now.

The powdercoating has come back so others jobs can be buttoned up.

 

[René]

that V-belt is very close to that water-pipe...may hope it clears enough when the heat is in it otherwise it could be scary? or is there still a little room to play with so they clear enough room.

 

Hi Rene,
Picture is not that clear but the pipe will be clipped back and will be ok.
Everything is close on 40's

 

I prepared and painted the door boxes in satin black. I used Hammerite satin black, it's self priming one coat and hand painted with a brush. Because the finish is crinckly / leathery you need not be to critical.
As mentioned before prep the surface well, degrease and paint.
Dont put a second coat.
You CANT scratch this off.
Now the rest of the spider will be done later.
You could pull the door shut with the carbon and it wont move but the strap is there to shut it.

Still waiting for parts so the build is slower