Russ,
Your perseverance never ceases to amaze me!
Top Shelf.
Cheers,
Scott
Your perseverance never ceases to amaze me!
Top Shelf.
Cheers,
Scott
Kiwi scratchbuilt
- Thread starter Russ Noble
- Start date
I have started playing around with fitment for the dry sump pump, waterpump and alternator which will all be mounted on the front motor plate. And the belt layout, pulleys etc.
First up it's obvious the brand new waterpump is miles too long. Time to turn it into a Kiwi shorty. So, strip it out and see what scope there is for shortening. This is what we started off with, 6.137" long.
First up it's obvious the brand new waterpump is miles too long. Time to turn it into a Kiwi shorty. So, strip it out and see what scope there is for shortening. This is what we started off with, 6.137" long.
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Well, not too bad. There's scope to trim it back by 1.25" which will be just about right. The bearing can go rearwards in the housing. The seal and impeller can be pressed forwards to maintain their positions relative to the housing and the nose of the housing and the front and rear of the bearing shaft can be shortened up to suit. QED. Finished length 4.890". In actual fact, if I'd needed to, I could have trimmed it back another 1/8''.
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All ready to go together. As a little bit of added security I decided to locate the bearing with a 3mm grub screw engaging the existing groove in the bearing. The screw shows up better in the flash shadow than it does on the actual pump. I also took the opportunity on reassembly to close up the impeller to housing clearance. I have never liked the big gaps found in most factory waterpumps. Final overall length of the pump to the front of the shaft 4.9". This means I won't need to put a power bulge in the firewall to enable clearance for the pump or for belt replacement. Sweet!
Not bad considering the extra length that Porsche have in the 930 from the driveshafts forwards and the extra 10mm that the motor plate spaces the pump forwards.
Not bad considering the extra length that Porsche have in the 930 from the driveshafts forwards and the extra 10mm that the motor plate spaces the pump forwards.
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Keep it up! Excellent effort. 
G'day Russ,
Thanks for the help in contacting Jonathon - I've now sent eight emails to him, all returned undelivered.
Thanks also for the original attention to Jonathon in the first place.
I've read your build notes above and looked at the photos. Great work. Good luck with the rest, I'll now follow your postings and take delight in your progress.
Richard Martin-Beck
Thanks for the help in contacting Jonathon - I've now sent eight emails to him, all returned undelivered.
Thanks also for the original attention to Jonathon in the first place.
I've read your build notes above and looked at the photos. Great work. Good luck with the rest, I'll now follow your postings and take delight in your progress.
Richard Martin-Beck
Not a lot to show the last few weeks, I've been tied up with work a bit more than usual. All the major mechanicals are in bits as I recondition, blueprint, modify, and assemble/reassemble. I have been playing around with the transaxle in recent weeks. Details are on this thread in the transaxle section.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...g-930-lsd-power-overrun-split.html#post223315
Trans is on the way back together shortly, once we've built the setup tools.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...g-930-lsd-power-overrun-split.html#post223315
Trans is on the way back together shortly, once we've built the setup tools.
This is just a query for fellow Kiwis out there.
Where in Godzone can I get some hardened steel washers that the i/d is a good snug fit on the bolts/studs? All the ones I have been able to find are a shocking loose fit and tend to sit eccentric and look crap when fitted!
Where in Godzone can I get some hardened steel washers that the i/d is a good snug fit on the bolts/studs? All the ones I have been able to find are a shocking loose fit and tend to sit eccentric and look crap when fitted!
cheat and put an O ring in the centre to help keep it centred
Thanks Maurice, I'm not sure that I'm into cheating, LOL, but that's a good idea I'll keep in mind.
Jac Mac, just closing up the trans now, but there will be other applications too. I hadn't thought of the Nordlocks as I was just thinking plain washers. But I think I'll run with the Nordlocks, they worked well on the TR7's Rover rocker covers, and they're easy to get.
Jac Mac, just closing up the trans now, but there will be other applications too. I hadn't thought of the Nordlocks as I was just thinking plain washers. But I think I'll run with the Nordlocks, they worked well on the TR7's Rover rocker covers, and they're easy to get.
Hi Russ,
MS spec aircraft washers for hard ones or AN series for normal steel and alloy and they come in 0.063, 0.032 and 0.016 thickness. All are closer tolerance than over the counter commercial stuff.
PM me if you need to discuss.:thumbsup:
Jimmy M
MS spec aircraft washers for hard ones or AN series for normal steel and alloy and they come in 0.063, 0.032 and 0.016 thickness. All are closer tolerance than over the counter commercial stuff.
PM me if you need to discuss.:thumbsup:
Jimmy M
Thanks James,
That's what I'm looking for. PM sent.
That's what I'm looking for. PM sent.
Some time ago I picked up a 6 stage Barnes dry sump pump on Ebay for USD250.
The intention was to use one stage as a trans oil pump. To prevent cross contamination of the engine and trans oils it was necessary to fit seals between the front trans stage and the 2nd sump scavenge stage. This required more room for the seals and was achieved by shortening up the trans pump gears and machining up a new thicker separator plate out of 7075 aluminium tooling plate.
The opportunity was also taken to incorporate the new separator as the pump mount which would be bolted directly up to the front motor plate. Lim as always was responsible for the machine work.
Lim when asked will always say "It can be done". He never mentions how difficult it is! As it turned out, the most difficult and tricky part of all that was machining the seemingly innocuous o-ring groove. This was quite a major undertaking to get right. The shape, width, and depth of the groove is critical.
The intention was to use one stage as a trans oil pump. To prevent cross contamination of the engine and trans oils it was necessary to fit seals between the front trans stage and the 2nd sump scavenge stage. This required more room for the seals and was achieved by shortening up the trans pump gears and machining up a new thicker separator plate out of 7075 aluminium tooling plate.
The opportunity was also taken to incorporate the new separator as the pump mount which would be bolted directly up to the front motor plate. Lim as always was responsible for the machine work.
Lim when asked will always say "It can be done". He never mentions how difficult it is! As it turned out, the most difficult and tricky part of all that was machining the seemingly innocuous o-ring groove. This was quite a major undertaking to get right. The shape, width, and depth of the groove is critical.
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So I rebuilt the pump with the new mount/separator plate and hooked it up to an electric motor to check the oil delivery of the new spraybar that I had fabbed up for the trans. It sprays onto the four gears and the pinion. In the next day or two I will take photos of the buttoned up trans showing the oilfeeds and billet sideplate that we have built.
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Russ,
Are you going to run a trans cooler on it too? Mount it in the rear?
Dave
Are you going to run a trans cooler on it too? Mount it in the rear?
Dave
David,
I plan to fabricate a water/oil heat exchanger in the bottom hose.
This means when the engine is warmed up prior to racing it will also warm up the trans oil and in the rigours of competition should maintain it at engine temperature.
The engine oil will be cooled by a normal air/oil cooler which will be in the normal location drawing air from the side scoop.
I don't like oil coolers mounted in the extreme rear, flush with the rear panel, as some have done. IMHO they are will be less efficient because they are using the hot air which is coming off the headers etc for cooling. Fine for a road car maybe.
I plan to fabricate a water/oil heat exchanger in the bottom hose.
This means when the engine is warmed up prior to racing it will also warm up the trans oil and in the rigours of competition should maintain it at engine temperature.
The engine oil will be cooled by a normal air/oil cooler which will be in the normal location drawing air from the side scoop.
I don't like oil coolers mounted in the extreme rear, flush with the rear panel, as some have done. IMHO they are will be less efficient because they are using the hot air which is coming off the headers etc for cooling. Fine for a road car maybe.
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Nice work Russ, top shelf as always!
Will you be mining some boxite and smelting it in the near future?
Really, because your car is so scratch built that would be about the only thing you have not attempted!
Cheers,
Scott
Will you be mining some boxite and smelting it in the near future?
Really, because your car is so scratch built that would be about the only thing you have not attempted!
Cheers,
Scott
Thanks Russell,
I tried EDL here and no joy. Jimmy M is organising some washers for me from Air New Zealand. So all's good.
Progress has been terrible the last six months, due to having to cope with several non-GT40 issues. That, combined with a crappy winter down here, sapped my enthusiasm a little. It's all go now though!
I've almost finished building the muffler and I'm currently building the fuel tanks and rear uprights. I'm also mocking up the the mounting and layout, on the front engine plate, of the alternator and dry sump pump. And sussing out pulley dimensions that will work with the available HTD belt sizes as there's not a lot of room for adjustment and I don't want the added complication (and weight) of running idler pulleys.
I tend to start one thing, get so far and find I need to think about it, so I move onto something else until inspiration strikes! Hence several things on the go at once....
I tried EDL here and no joy. Jimmy M is organising some washers for me from Air New Zealand. So all's good.
Progress has been terrible the last six months, due to having to cope with several non-GT40 issues. That, combined with a crappy winter down here, sapped my enthusiasm a little. It's all go now though!
I've almost finished building the muffler and I'm currently building the fuel tanks and rear uprights. I'm also mocking up the the mounting and layout, on the front engine plate, of the alternator and dry sump pump. And sussing out pulley dimensions that will work with the available HTD belt sizes as there's not a lot of room for adjustment and I don't want the added complication (and weight) of running idler pulleys.
I tend to start one thing, get so far and find I need to think about it, so I move onto something else until inspiration strikes! Hence several things on the go at once....
