Kurtiss' GT-R

Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#1
I have been lurking in the background for a few years watching all the great build threads and trying to decide what car I would like to build. Sure, I’ve looked at the car manufactures like Superformance, CAV, Factory Five, Race Car Replicas, Superlite and many others. In 2016 I discovered the GT-R by Superlite. I felt it was the best of all worlds – the fantastic and timeless look of the GT40 with the updated styling and larger size of the Robertson Racing GT’s.

For the past year I have been watching Allan build his beautiful Chevy powered red GT-R, Dean Lampe and his Coyote engine Gulf inspired build, Mike Costello with his supercharged Coyote build, Mark Setter with his gorgeous carbon fiber intake Chevy build, and Andy Smith of H Craft Customs who seems to have no limits on what he can fabricate. The GT40s forum has been a source of information and inspiration and now it’s time to build my car.

I received my GT-R and I have a Coyote Aluminator motor with a Borla Eightstack induction. Now I'm gathering parts and tools and planning the build sequence.
 

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#2
Great looking car! I ordered mine the end of July. Can't wait to get it. I too have been following the GT-R builds and have gleaned lots of ideas for the build. Did you order the interior package?

Rufus
 

Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#3
Rufus,

Thank you. Yes, I ordered it with the Street Package and the E-brake kit, front lift kit, the Graziano V8 transaxle and the Graziano completion kit.
 

Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#6
Thank you, I’m enjoying every minute!

After fabricating an engine cradle, I removed the transaxle and adapter from the car and mounted them to the engine. I noticed that the adapter has two holes that match the engine dowels (sleeve guides). These holes are drilled all the way through the adapter. Since the engine block is threaded at the dowels, I want to use these mounting points.

I machined each dowel hole to .75” diameter and .50” deep from transaxle side of the adapter. Then machined a 1/8” thick x .745” OD washer that slid into the hole. I installed the typical mount bolt and, like the others bolt, the head is flush with the adapter when tightened. Instead of 5 bolts there are now 7 that hold the adapter to the engine and I feel better.
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#7
It's been awhile since I last posted. After disassembly to the somewhat bare chassis, I decided to spray the flat bottom with bedliner material for added protection and sound deadening. I used 220 grit sandpaper to rough up the aluminum plate then applied a 2 part epoxy primer as an adhesive promoter. I lightly sanded the epoxy primer with 400 grit sandpaper before applying 2 liters of Raptor Liner. It was super easy, took one day to apply primer and liner and looks great. Per the instructions, I allowed the liner to cure for 5 days before turning the chassis right side up and back into the garage. Now I can begin a detailed assembly of the suspension.
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#8
With the chassis back in the garage, I used Lava Shield from Heatshield Products to cover the front of the chassis to reduce the interior heat. The Lava Shield is .025” thick and can be easily cut with scissors or an Exacto knife.
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#9
After a light sanding and polishing of the upper and lower A-arms, I reassembled the suspension. Correct length fasteners were installed along with custom machined aluminum spacers that allowed removal of a handful of washers. All fasteners were checked for proper torque and as each fastener was tightened, I applied blue torque stripe to keep track of what had been done.
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#10
I noticed the steering arm fasteners were short of full engagement into arm. I installed longer fasteners and added washers and self-locking nuts. It may be overkill but "when in doubt, make it stout".
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#11
I noticed the rear clip latch pin tab (at the roll bar) is fiberglass with no underlying support. It seems a bit flimsy considering the abuse and speed these cars may be subject to. Before removal of the roll cage, I fabricated and tack welded steel tabs under the fiberglass to add the needed backing.
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#12
The fuel tank sensor was too long for the fuel tank. The folks at Speedhut who make the sensor said to carefully cut/trim the outer and inner tube to the required length. Make sure the spacer between the sensor tubes is still present and secure. I cut mine to ¾” above the tank bottom (taking into consideration the sensor gasket thickness). This will allow 1.8 gallons of reserve fuel (not including the swirl tank) when the gauge reads empty.

The total fuel capacity is 20 gallons when including the swirl tank.
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#13
The fuel tank is located in the center of the car directly above the radiator and heater coolant lines. Insulation is needed to keep the radiant heat from frying the occupants. I lined the bottom of the fuel tank with Sticky Shield from Heatshield Products and covered the radiator and heater lines with heat-dissipating sleeving (fiberglass sleeve covered with silicone rubber from McMaster Carr).
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#14
I decided to cut a hole in the firewall at the fuel tank to run the fuel supply and return lines. I fabricated a panel to support the bulkhead fittings and wiring. I plan to route the A/C lines on the passenger side of the chassis and leave the radiator and heater lines routed under the fuel tank.
 

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Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#15
There’s little room between the fuel tank fittings and the tank cavity therefore I had to use 90 deg elbows. The fuel tank return fitting is 3/8" NPT to -6AN; the supply fitting is a 1/2" NPT to -8AN. I used 3/8" and 1/2" aluminum 5052 tubing to fab the fittings as shown. I sealed the sending and filled the tank with 5 gallons of solvent to leak check the fittings and flush the tank. No leaks noted.
 

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Steven Lobel

Bronze Supporter
#17
Is that JB Weld holding the aluminum into the NPT to AN fitting? Looks great. I had trouble using my rivnut tool. Too much effort. Just got some McMaster rivnuts and they are a bit beefier and longer than the ones that came in the astro kit.
 

Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#18
Steve, I used the Marine grade JB Weld. It is supposed to be fuel resistant. I roughed up the tube and fitting surfaces before applying the epoxy.

I also purchased the McMaster rivnuts and they worked great.
 

Kurtiss

Silver Supporter
#19
For the E-Brake Bracket Install
Suggested Bolts: M10-1.5, 35mm (4 each, Shoulder Bolt), M10-1.5, 30mm (4 each, Cap Screw)
Washers: M10 (2 each for bolts and as needed for spacing)
Drill Bit: Size R
Tap: M10-1.5

With rotor installed, bolt bracket to e-brake caliper and place over rotor at forward edge of spindle. Locate the e-brake caliper centered over the rotor and mark the bracket location.

The spindle is big and heavy and easily nicked so handle with care. Locate spindle web and mark the spindle edge accordingly. Measure and draw a line indicating the center of the web. Locate the bracket on the spindle at the marked location with the bolt holes centered on the web. Use a transfer punch to mark the drill location.

Clamp the spindle in a vise and use a drill press to drill two holes to R size perpendicular to the spindle for the bracket bolts to a depth of 1.25”. Tap the holes to M10-1.5.

Fit check the e-brake bracket and determine the number of washers or spacer size needed to center the caliper over the rotor.
 

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Dr. David

Lifetime Premier Supporter
#20
Rivnut tools:
I have used several different types of tools for the installation of rivnuts, including the Astro, and one that looks like a hand-riveter, but sometimes I have a confined-space issue and it seems like I keep going back to a more manual product from Pegasus: Economy Rivet Nut and Insert Nut Placing Tool - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
Basically all I am using from their product is the black nut with the serrated edge that grips the rivnut, and I replace the internal bolt with a socket cap screw. You simply hold the black nut with an end wrench and use a hex bit socket and a ratchet to turn it to the desired crimp. If you have rivnuts with different thread sizes, eg 1/4-20 vs 1/4-28, you simply change to the corresponding the cap screw. I always use anti-seize, and steel rivnuts if possible...not an expert, ...just how I do it.

It may take a little more time, but not compared to the thousand-hour building of the masterpiece!
 
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