Kurtiss' GT-R

Joel K

Supporter
Installed the condenser with a ¾” gap in front of the radiator. At the top, I machined spacers and installed #10-24 rivnuts in the radiator cover. For the bottom, I copied others and made brackets.

At the drier I used the Vintage Air billet mount and installed the trinary switch to reduce the number of fittings. I installed a #8 hard line from the condenser down the right side through the wheel well to the rocker panel area.

Hi Kurtis, question for you. To install the trinary switch in the dryer did you purchase the male trinary switch from vintage air and it threads right into the supplied drier? Or is there an adapter to enable you to use the supplied female trinary switch?

Thanks,


Joel
 

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Hi Joel,
The male trinary or binary switch will thread directly into the supplied drier. Note: after that post I changed the trinary switch to a binary switch (P/N Vintage Air 11079-VUS). My FAST ECU's will turn on the fans when the AC is turned on therefore I only need the binary function.
Hope this helps!

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Joel K

Supporter
Hi Joel,
The male trinary or binary switch will thread directly into the supplied drier. Note: after that post I changed the trinary switch to a binary switch (P/N Vintage Air 11079-VUS). My FAST ECU's will turn on the fans when the AC is turned on therefore I only need the binary function.
Hope this helps!

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Thanks Kurtiss, my kit came with a female trinary switch so guess if I wanted to go in this direction I’d need the male switch. But to your point, until I figure out how I control the fans weather I need a trinary or binary switch.
 

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Your right Larry! Before I can drive it, I have a few issues:
1. I sent the VTC (Valve Timing Controller) back to FAST. It wasn't communicating with the other controllers.
2. I purchased new seats and harnesses but they won't be shipped till August due to COVID-19. I'll install the original seats for testing.
3. I live on a dirt road full of pot holes and washouts. I purchased a trailer (a Jimglo) that is ready for pickup in Kingman, AZ and will get in a few days. I plan to trailer the car to an open parking lot and test it in the coming weeks.
 

Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
3. I live on a dirt road full of pot holes and washouts. I purchased a trailer (a Jimglo) that is ready for pickup in Kingman, AZ... I plan to trailer the car to an open parking lot and test it in the coming weeks.

My kinda guy. ;)

I won't even take my daily driver out on sloppy days...
 
Kurtiss I understand your reasoning I do have a couple of questions what is the red bar tied into the roll bar mounts and the switches you used I was looking for something like the ones you used could you share info
 

Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Hi Larry,
That's the seat belt harness bar that has been powder coated red (see photo prior to powder coating). Rufus came up with the design.

The switches are from Brian at Racewire Solutions at https://racewiresolutions.mysimplestore.com. He has a lot of high quality switches and wiring components.

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Attachments

  • Seat Belt Bar.pdf
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Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Hi Larry,
I like the Infinity System (see post #160). It’s an easy and clean looking installation and is great for troubleshooting your wiring. I have the Universal Infinity Wiring system so it did not come with premade harnesses like for an SLC. I prefer to make my own harnesses so this was the perfect kit for me.

As far as terminating components, my goal was to allow removal of the engine, instrument panel and switch panels without cutting wires. A lot of folks use Weatherpack connectors but I opted to use Deutsch DTM connectors for their smaller compact size and ease of assembly/disassembly. Deutsch connectors are available for 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 12 cavity arrangements and are available from https://deutschconnectorstore.com along with the appropriate crimping tools. I had to acquire specific connectors for the steering column, A/C compressor, fog lights, etc.

I used 14 ga and 18 ga GXL primary wire in various colors and high quality crimp type terminal connections. I also used flame retardant F6FR Self Wrapping Split Braided sleeving over all the wire harnesses. The only problem I had was the need for more accessory switched circuits at the front of the car so I added a relay (please see my updated schematics). I also added two relays for the wiper motor and another relay for the audio system bypass (I wanted to use the audio system without all the other accessories and engine controllers being powered).

Hope this helps, Kurtiss

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Attachments

  • GT-R 032120.pdf
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Kurtiss H.

Member
Supporter
Many members have reviewed my electrical schematics and I sincerely hope they have provided help with their builds. Over the past few months I have made a few wiring changes therefore I revised the schematics. Please note that I have not finished installing the interior lighting, side mirrors, A/C controls or audio/video system so I expect there will be a few more revisions before I'm done.

If you have any questions, comments or concerns, please let me know.
Kurtiss
 

Attachments

  • GT-R 20200606.pdf
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Steven Lobel

Supporter
It is stuff like you post that shapes the decisions of future builders. Much easier to just buy whatever you bought and follow the diagrams then to figure it out as you go. Kudos to you.
 

Neil

Supporter
Congratulations, Kurtiss. Nice car. Nice Jimglo trailer, too. You will save your clutch if you load your car into the trailer with a winch instead of driving it on.
 
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