Kurtiss' GT-R

Kurtiss why the change from the units supplied with the kit I assume better performance and the clutch a little easier to operate if you get a second can you forward part numbers for the new cylinders
 

Kurtiss

Member
Larry, you received two 3/4" and one 7/8" Wilwood master cylinders with the GT-R kit, no new parts are involved. Since the GT-R does not have a build manual, we refer to the SLC. The SLC build info says to use a 3/4" for front, 7/8" for rear and 3/4" for clutch. This is incorrect for the GT-R so I swapped the master cylinders as noted. Hope this helps.
 

Kurtiss

Member
I pulled the engine in January to install insulation on both sides of the firewall and finish the fuel pump mods. At the firewall window I added a second pane with a 1/8” air space in-between to reduce the amount of heat passing through.

On the front side, I used Noico 80 mil black sound deadening mat. The mat easily conforms to angles and edges. To protect the mat, I added thin aluminum sheet when mounting the electronics.

For the engine side of the firewall I used Heatshield Products Sticky Shield 1/8” fiberglass insulation with 4 mil aluminum backing. Sticky Shield has an adhesive backing and conforms to minor angles. For hard corners, the Sticky Shield was cut to fit then speed taped (aluminum tape) to seal the edges. I also used Heatshield Gold heat barrier mat on the square frame extensions to protect them from exhaust header heat.

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Kurtiss

Member
When considering the exhaust system, there are so many options to think about – it’s exhausting (pun intended). The sound of a real GT40 is incredible with a “bundle of snakes” 180° exhaust system. For my build, I’m trying for the retro look and sound with modern hardware.

Last November/December, before I pulled the engine out, Bruce of BJ’s Race Cars (a local shop) did an amazing job fabricating 180 degree headers. He used 1-¾” primary’s and 3” collectors to a 6” Magnaflow straight thru muffler and Flowmaster resonator on each side. He followed the lines of the “K” brace and the exhaust exits the car under the center of the bumper.

I sent the system out for ceramic coating in a titanium color. The engine was reinstalled in March and hope to fire it up by the end of this month. Can’t wait to start the engine – should sound great.

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When considering the exhaust system, there are so many options to think about – it’s exhausting (pun intended). The sound of a real GT40 is incredible with a “bundle of snakes” 180° exhaust system. For my build, I’m trying for the retro look and sound with modern hardware.

Last November/December, before I pulled the engine out, Bruce of BJ’s Race Cars (a local shop) did an amazing job fabricating 180 degree headers. He used 1-¾” primary’s and 3” collectors to a 6” Magnaflow straight thru muffler and Flowmaster resonator on each side. He followed the lines of the “K” brace and the exhaust exits the car under the center of the bumper.

I sent the system out for ceramic coating in a titanium color. The engine was reinstalled in March and hope to fire it up by the end of this month. Can’t wait to start the engine – should sound great.

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Happy Easter Kurtiss. That is one awesome looking exhaust!!! I am anxiously awaiting your first start. Would be nice to visit your project again once the Covid-19 passes us by.
 

Kurtiss

Member
Thank you Joel.
Larry, I'm close but I'd like to design and fab the fuel tank inlet plumbing (similar to yours). Stay Tuned!
Jim, your welcome anytime. Yes, please stop bay after Covid-19 threat is over.
 

Kurtiss

Member
For some reason I was dreading the thought of having to come up with the engine radiator hoses. The Coyote engine supply and return lines are on opposite sides than that of the radiator therefore the hoses need to be swapped in the engine bay. I first went to the local NAPA store/warehouse and looked through their inventory of 1-1/2” hoses – close but no cigar.

I helped build the exhaust and thought “why not build the hoses/tubing” to meet my needs. I decided to go with HPS Performance silicone hoses and aluminum tubing. I used three 90° silicone elbows, two 3” centerline radius 90° aluminum elbows and one 2” centerline radius 90° aluminum elbow. I also used the upper radiator hose adapter (P/N ACC-1073) from Power By The Hour Performance so I could use the existing hose quick connection.

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Neil

Supporter
Kurtiss, be careful using worm drive hose clamps. They tend to cut into the soft silicone hoses. These are "lined" types that are better but T-bolt clamps are commonly used for silicone hoses. Best of all are Gates Power Band heat-shrink clamps.
 

Kurtiss

Member
Hi Larry,
The GPS speedometer was part of the Speedhut kit that came with the car. The speedometer has a built-in display and has the following menu items: odometer, trip odometer, clock, elevation, direction, 0-60 mph timer and a 1/4 mile timer.
 

Kurtiss

Member
Fuel Filler Neck and Tubing
The front clip will be bolted down since I’m cutting out the center section. Therefore, instead of using the supplied fuel filler support, I installed the filler neck on the front clip, passenger side like Rufus, Larry and others. I built up the filler neck location with layers of fiberglass until it was ½” thick, then used a router and template to cut the filler neck recess. I also modified the filler neck to accept a 2” ID filler hose and added tabs for grounding wires to the piping. I used 2” tubing and installed a PERKO 2” check valve in the hose at the fuel tank inlet.

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Kurtiss

Member
Engine Start
4.5 qts of Lucas Synthetic 75w-90 Gear Oil
8 qts of Lucas Synthetic High Performance 5w-50 Engine Oil
5.5 gal of Motorcraft VC-3DIL-B Orange Antifreeze/Coolant
5 gallons of 91 octane gas.

Upon first attempt, the engine would not start. Friends and I spent all day Saturday trying to figure out why. We had spark but the fuel injectors weren’t firing. I called Eddy Taylor at Borla and he contacted Dave Page at FAST. Dave called and after I changed a few program settings – the engine came to life! It’s a little rough above idle but it’s running.

Today I used a Synchometer to flow balance the individual throttle bodies and now the engine sounds great!

 
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