Maintenance & Enhancements over winter

[Mike]

Cleaned it up and started tearing things down for the winter. Pulled the wheels and ran into the first item that needs to be addressed doh! Counter sunk allen head bolts on left rear that attach the rotor had backed out. Everything is coming apart anyway for bearing maintenance so it will be address during reassembly. I will share observations as I work on the car over the winter. I have a couple things planned

Started today getting it off the ground for an inspection & cleanup. Pulled the carpet and seats and vacuumed the interior. Washed the wheels and put into storage. Lots of work ahead.

 

[Dave Hood]

Mike - nice view in your garage, and an even nicer view outside!

 

[Mike]

Thanks, I did some reading on here about the rear spacers. It seems some cars came with them and some did not. Was there ever consensus reached on why? I have not mounted a wheel back on without them to determine if it is a clearance issue or not. I would say if you have an SPF car I would check them bolts regularly as they backed out in short order once they got lose.

 

[Rich E.]

Loctite blue.

Had the same problem when I did my first set of bearings. Left rear were frozen in and the right side were loose, very loose. Added a bit of blue and problem solved.

 

[OliveR]

Hi Mike,

Why do you need to add spacers ? I've seen that you have AVON CR6ZZ but in which size ? 295 ? 275 ? (I think it's 295 as recommended by SPF).

On my MKII I have 295 and no problem whereas SPF suggests 275 (I have no spacers).

Is it possible to know what you plan to do on your car during winter ? (it could give me ideas for mine...).

Do you ofter retighen the wheels bearings ? Do you use loctite blue on the 2 bolts that tighten the wheels bearings ? (on mine I've done it 2 times this year with no loctite and have to do it again - that's why I'd like to know if you use loctite or no on that bolts ??).

Thanks,

OliveR

 

[Mike]

Oliver, I really can't say what the spacers are for yet. Hoping someone will chime in. I will be speaking with Dennis at some point as I get further into the work. This is my first go around with bearing maintenance so I will learning as I go. I don't believe the two bolts tighten the wheel bearings. They appear to hold the rotor down to the hub. I'll post pictures as I take it apart. My bearings are not lose but I just want to service them. The things that are known right now that I will be doing is replumbing the oil cooler, taking care of a couple oil drips, different carb, figuring out why fuel tank balance line seems impeded, flushing brake & clutch fluid, flush & refill coolant, and nut & bolt entire car. I have a few ideas for enhancements and changes and will post when I get there.

 

[OliveR]

Mike, you're right there are 2 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub but there are too 2 little Allen bolts (bad quality that I changed by stronger ones) that hold the wheels bearings on each wheel. You'll discover that when you'll disassembly yours.

But you'll need a press tool (I don't know if it's the right word in english) to access to the rear wheel bearings bolts.

Concerning the oil drips, where do you get them ? From my side I have a 427IR Roush engine and changed 3 times the oil pan gasket and 1 time the rear main gasket, still leaking a little !!! I met 2 mechanics that work on original GT40 and Cobras they said it's really hard to get a GT40 with no leaks !!!

I'm interested about how you're going to bleed your brake lines because I've done it on my car with an automatic bleeder (easybleed) and I still have air in the lines. I have to do it again but if you have the good method .. it could help me !

Last question: I raced my GT40 on a track, it was hot and I found that on very hard curves the oil pressure was low (25/30 psi) and once in straight line the oil pressure dropped to 50 Psi as it is when I drive the car on the road. I have an oil pan with compartiments I shouldn't get low oil pressure even in hard curves.
Do you ever met that problem ? I talk to the same mechanic that work on orginal GT40 and he told me that he found too that problem. Why ????

Thanks,

OliveR

 

[Mike]

Not sure yet but I think one leak is at the back of the valve cover on the left side. I am hoping the rear main is not leaking or if so is not leaking badly. The engine only has ~4K miles on it. My engine oil cooler is dripping from all the AN fittings. Going to replumb and get rid rid of the pretty anodized fittings that I've never had good luck getting to seal. Another drip is one of the studs at the rear cover of the ZF. Spoke to Loyd who suggested a method for getting it to seal.

I have not noticed low oil pressure but other than some spirited canyon drives now and then I don't push my car as hard as a track car is pushed. Have you spoke to Roush about the loss of pressure?

 

[OliveR]

Mike my engine had 5000 miles when I had to rebuild it totally... Roush installed a distributor gear that was not compatible with the camshaft. So I had debris of camshaft gear everywhere in the engine (while driving the engine shut off suddenly and impossible of course to restart it as my distributor advance was totally modified).

So I won't make advertisment for Roush and will never buy another anither from them. They are very expensive and quality is bad !

For the anodized fitting buy some of good quality. I had problem of oil leaking with low price fittings. Now all is perfect for me with that.

I had too leaks on my ZFQ with the side covers where driveshaft are connected. The leaks were coming only from the bolts. I removed them add some sealant and retightened them and all is ok now.

OliveR

 

[Randy V]

The only fittings I will buy anymore is Aeroquip brand. I have had nothing but bad luck with Earls / Russell fittings and won't even try the cheaper brands..
There are conical Teflon seals you can purchase also to try and save fittings with inconsistent surfaces, but I've never tried them.
I do make good use of Teflon thread sealant on bolts or studs that are not in blind holes. Oil / water always seems to find its way past the threads otherwise.. Takes a little time to clean and prime the threads if you are already leaking though.. You may find that you have to drain the gearbox first then spray carburetor or brake cleaner into the holes and blow them dry or use a heat gun to force evaporate the solvent..

 

[Grady]

Mike
First you need to paint the walls. Next buy some worthy artwork from FORDimages.com, frame, and place on the walls. It is all inspirational stuff and it is a great Christmas present to yourself.
Freezing rain, ice, and snow tomorrow here in WNC. My car is all tucked in and hooked to a battery trickle charger.
Grady

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Dennis Olthoff sells the tool for adjusting the bearing preload

Wheel Bearing Socket - Olthoff Racing

Do not believe the myth that there are no seals on the wheel bearings, there are. They are German "Nilos" seals. Also despite the hubs being open front and rear the seals do protect the bearings. Now that said, the more water, grit and debris you can keep out the better the seal life will be. If you drive often in dust, grit and water I would suggest a scheduled maintenance of the seals and bearings.

 

[OliveR]

Grady your country is too large (but I'd really love to come to live and work there) !!! Some states are highly located in North and don't allow you to drive all over the year.. Whereas some in South could be too hot to drive too...

Here in France it's a small country and as I'm living in South I can drive my cars approximatly 270 to 300 days on dry roads. We just have 1 or 2 days of snow..

That's why we don't know battery charger..

OliveR

 

[Mike]

Thanks for those tips Randy. Not sure what brand they are yet but the fittings on there now are as tight as can be and still leak like a sieve. I am going to call Pegasus and see what they have available.

Grady, I hear your ha. One of these days I will give up all the recreational distractions in my life and work on my garage.

Rick, for a car that is never ever ever driven in water, what do you recommend for maintenance schedule?

 

[Grady]

Grady your country is too large (but I'd really love to come to live and work there) !!! Some states are highly located in North and don't allow you to drive all over the year.. Whereas some in South could be too hot to drive too...

Here in France it's a small country and as I'm living in South I can drive my cars approximatly 270 to 300 days on dry roads. We just have 1 or 2 days of snow..

That's why we don't know battery charger..

OliveR

We have 50 mph winds,snow, and ice here today (western NC). We drive 4wheel drive trucks, Audis, or Sabrus, AWD cars. It isn't bad except when deep snow hits where Mike lives. Nederland is off the grid, but I've only been there once. I like Estes Park or Boulder myself (300+ days of sunshine).
I'll be in Paris next week. We've missed a few museums in our past visits. Already made some restaurant dates. My wife likes to take the 'Death March' tour of Paris. Drags me everywhere. I can't wait to get to Musse d' Orsay and set down. Nice city.

 

[OliveR]

Grady I'll be too in Paris next week (Maybe Tuesday but sure Wednesday and Thursday).... but not for holidays.. only for business.. but I have time the evening we could if you want meet each other ?

OliveR

 

[Grady]

Grady I'll be too in Paris next week (Maybe Tuesday but sure Wednesday and Thursday).... but not for holidays.. only for business.. but I have time the evening we could if you want meet each other ?

OliveR

Arriving CDG on Friday am..screwed up because the first Monday (9th) of the month thing and the museums. Just a quick trip to enjoy a different season (planning for rain). Have I missed a French holiday I don't know about? What do you'll have planned?

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Rick, for a car that is never ever ever driven in water, what do you recommend for maintenance schedule?

I would think a once a year inspection/tigtening would be sufficent for a non-track driven car but i would defer to Dennis if suggests other.

We are having a real run on SPF GT40s....I have several sold on order and all are being built-out at Olthoffs! Despite the price people are seeing real value (read: FUN!!!) in the GT as compared to a used exotic, etc.

 

[OliveR]

Arriving CDG on Friday am..screwed up because the first Monday (9th) of the month thing and the museums. Just a quick trip to enjoy a different season (planning for rain). Have I missed a French holiday I don't know about? What do you'll have planned?

Grady so I well understand you'll not be in Paris next week but the week after ?

No you didn't miss any French Holiday the last one was the 11th of November (End of 1st World War in 1914).

Sorry I don't understand your last question ??

OliveR

 

[OliveR]

I would think a once a year inspection/tigtening would be sufficent for a non-track driven car but i would defer to Dennis if suggests other.

We are having a real run on SPF GT40s....I have several sold on order and all are being built-out at Olthoffs! Despite the price people are seeing real value (read: FUN!!!) in the GT as compared to a used exotic, etc.

Rick, on my car I check/inspect bolts / rods / bearings / gaskets / hoses all year long.
I compare the GT40 to an airforce plane: 1 hour to drive it / 1 hour to work on it (ok airforce planes require more hours to work on it than the GT40 but the GT is time consuming however...).
I don't know how many miles American owner of GT40 drive their car in a year but from my side I drove it 5000 miles in 2013 so... I have to spend time for her..
OliveR