Mark B's Build Thread

Mark B.

Supporter
So it looks like my headlight controls are not working properly. Can anyone with InfinityBox and the Olds (2014+) column chime in? When I turn the headlights on, the dims and brights both go on. Then when I turn the brings on, they both turn off. Has anyone else had problems with InfinityBox adn the newer column? It looks like the inputs are being recongized, but Infinitybox may be messed up on the outputs.
 

Mark B.

Supporter
I dropped an e-mail to Jay at Infinitybox and he called me back within a couple of hours -- they always have great customer service!
As it turns out, a few of the first cars with the Olds Intrigue steering column (the one RCR started using in late 2013/early 2014 had the Infinitybox column connectors mis-pinned. He sent me the correct pin-outs which I corrected along with adding one diode and now all is working correctly.
So if anyone has issues with headlight controls, here's the correct pin-outs for the infinitybox side of the connector:

D = Ground (Black Wire)
F = Yellow/Red
G = Yellow/Black
K = Blue/Red
L = White/Green
R = Blue/Black
W = Ground (Black Wire)
X = Ground (Black Wire)
Z = Ground (Black Wire)

There also needs to be a diode installed between K (Blue/Red) and L (White/Green). The stripe on the diode (cathode) needs to go towards K (Blue/Red). Pretty much any diode will work because the required current is very small. A 1N4001 diode works fine.
Here's a pic showing the connector pin locations, but they're also marked on the connector if you look closely:
steering rack wiring.jpg
 
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Mark B.

Supporter
I've been getting headlights, taillights, and cameras installed and wired up. Using weatherpack connectors on the front and rear clips for easy removal.
I decided to add side cameras in addition to front/rear since side visibility on these cars isn't wonderful. I went back and forth on the best place to mount them and landed on the front vents.

Fabricated small brackets to get the angle right on the cameras and bonded them in with 3M panel bond.
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Cameras are towards the top of the front fender vent so they're not overly noticeable looking from the outside.
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Channel 3 and 4 are the side cameras (front/rear aren't mounted yet). Even though they're not sticking out of the car, visibility is 3" from the side of the car at the rear of the doors and 8" from the side at the rear of the back tire so perfect for backing in to parking spots as well as lane changes. The car was sitting on my lift when I took these pics hence the lift posts :). I'll be mounting the screen in in the roof panel as far forward as possible.
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Mark B.

Supporter
I ended up making my own hood hinge out of 1/4" aluminum plate and 1.5" aluminum square bar for the spacer. I need to install pivot bushings still, but they're operational. They're not as pretty as the CNC pieces from RCR, but I got tired of waiting. ;) Given I only have a miter saw and drill press for my machining work, I'm pleased with the result :)

Main hinge plates, 1/4" Aluminum, drilled out to safe a tiny bit of weight.
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Spacers, 1.5" aluminum square bar, drilled two 1" holes to save a little weight.
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Body-side hinge plates, also 1/4" aluminum, mounted with 5/16" counter-sunk bolts/nuts with 1/8" backing plates.
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Shop vac tube makes a great hood prop :). And yes, that's snow in Austin -- my dog is very confused...
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Mark,

Your hinges look good. I have the machine tools (Mill, Lathe, etc) and I'd be OK with those. But, you might think about increasing the size of your pivot bolt. It's taking a lot of load in shear. Should probably be a good quality 3/8" bolt.

As for finishing those, a router (wood router) with a carbide bit works great on aluminum. You could use a rounding bit to go over the edges. Then sand/polish or powder coat or engine turn (since you have a drill press). All would look great.
 

Neil

Supporter
If you are hinging on the threads of that bolt you will ream out the hole in no time at all. An orbital sander with 180 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper makes a pleasing surface finish on aluminum.
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Thanks guys! Good advice on the finishing. And yes agree with both on the pivot bolts. I ordered 3/8 flanged bearings and shoulder bolts, just didn't have them yesterday when I finished the brackets.
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Hi everyone,
I've been slowly, but surely working on things:
  • Interior is largely done, including seats, belts, rear-view camera, console, and dash. Plan is to have the dash, center console, and much of the tub covered in Alcantara, but I want to drive it for a year or so to work out bugs since I'm sure I'll have to take it apart a few times.
  • Body panels are all mounted and mostly aligned. Doors are mounted with latches, but need to do a final alignment and install interior latches and door pulls.
  • Headlights and taillights are all in and working. Still need to do the headlight covers and taillight trim pieces.
  • Windshield is installed. I'm happy with the fit, but the installer I used wanted to use some trim on the sides which didn't turn out nearly as nice as it sounded it would :) I'll cut it off and go with caulk or a different trim, but I plan on driving it for a year before paint to get the stress cracks and bubbles to pop out first (Texas heat should work nicely for that).
  • Mechanically, it's done, but I'm going to get a final tune done on the engine to help with off-idle / cruising. At very light throttle it goes from idle to 2K RPM pretty much instantly which makes me look like an even worse driver than I am :D
  • My biggest challenge now is waiting until September 15 for the county police inspection :( I have all of my forms complete for the rest of the registration process (thanks to the TX registration thread!), just playing the waiting game.
Here are a couple new videos I just posted:
 

Mark B.

Supporter
Took the SLC to get the engine tuned a bit better last weekend, so I decided to post a new video with all the engine details and dyno run along with a bunch of pictures.

It ended up at 572 RWHP @ 7770 RPM and 442 RWTQ @ 6180 RPM. Low speed drivability is decent. We wound it out to 8500 RPM for one of the runs just to see how the valvetrain would hold up and it worked perfect so it's good to know I have a margin for safety on the track. And yea I know drop gears and a lower-revving engine would have been much more practical and just as much power, but for me, this is more fun :)

I've been cursing out my doors lately -- got the locks/latches installed, and driver's side pressurized lift, but I'm not at all happy with the alignment so will keep playing with it.


Dyno HPT July 2021.jpg
 

Mark B.

Supporter
First step of the registration process is done! After having to wait nearly 3 months for my Sheriff's Dept appointment for the 68A inspection it went off without a hitch! Shout out to the Travis County, TX Sheriff's Dept as I was in and out in about 15 mins. I had receipts in-hand, but they didn't seem to need them. They just took the S/N's for the chassis, motor, and trans, filled out the form and we shot the bull about cars for a few minutes. Biggest plus was I had stamped the RCR MSO# on the chassis so they were happy with that. Now to the safety and DOT appointments...
 
Mark ,
Looking great Mark, the interior is coming along nicely and the cameras are pretty awesome. Got plenty horsepower as well , sweet dyno run.
Nice videos . Hope you get your license plate soon.
 

Mark B.

Supporter
I decided to make a shift knob out of 1.25" diameter delrin rod. I had one like this in my previous car and like the feel better than the round knob. The knob is 4.5" tall, but the mounting hole is drilled about 3" so it has the effect of shortening the shift throw by a couple inches since you're grabbing lower down on the shift lever. I also drilled a hole for a 3/32 roll pin to keep it from rotating loose (you can barely see the hole at the very bottom of the knob.
Since I don't have a lathe, my drill press had to substitute :)
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Here it is installed. I need to come up with a better mount for the shift boot though, because it came loose after a few shifts.

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Mark B.

Supporter
I also finally got the interior door pulls and releases installed. Since I have my safety inspection this week, I thought the inspector would appreciate being able to get out of the car :)

I went for the "street legal track car" look and just used 1/16" aluminum sheet for the panels with 1" black canvas strap for the pulls and release loops.
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