McCopy mk 5

Im in the process of converting my M1 chassis to cad if your interested in doing one of them, would be a much better road car.
just a though
cheers John
 
Well a little progress on the next chassis, I have started from the rear so here is the rear bulkhead, also started cutting the chassis steel, setting it all up on the build table before tack welding it.
Sounds silly but there is a certain pleasure in cutting up some steel and ending up with nice tight joins for welding.
Cheers
 

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Hello Russell,

I am not very present on the forum since a few monthes , mainly due to the building completion of my scratchbuilt GT40 :

https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=...Xc4D6h12XhhitkUoCZqvtw&bvm=bv.137904068,d.d2s

And I am pleased to see that the chassis drawings I put on the forum may be to some help for your new project ....

Related to your questions on sills thickness and tanks capacity, my 2 cents would be :

The original sills thickness is 254 mm ; so to end up with 300 mm is reasonnable, but you will have, at least, to modify the doors inside GRP panels ; the outside GRP skin of the doors should stay out ( a few mm !) of the sills tube frame...

The 2 x tanks capacity are approx 30 ( 60 qrt total) quarters on my build ;
not so much , but could have been optimised, mainly without some reinforcement bars I installed on the front bottom area of the sills ...( see picture of right side tank)

I wish you the best for your build , and I will follow it with high interest ...

René
 

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Rene
Thank you for making contact and well spotted, the drawings were sent to me by a friend and I had no idea where they came from. I have just had a good look thru your build and there are many answers to some of my thoughts.
This build has not yet had a real ending decided...it could be a GT40 or it could be a road going McLaren M8B as i have the moulds from my last car, the cost of a GT40 body may prove the tipping point.
I am building this car capable of running either a Lexus V8 or a Chev so strength is the key. The chassis will be very similar to yours which is a great starting point and thank you for the use of the drawings. The rear uprights have been made already and they will run Holden bearing and shafts, the rest of the components will all be scratch built as time permits. I see that you are running larger dia rims, I was going to try for 15inch but tyre size gets difficult.
At the present stage, the chassis is being pre cut and secured to the build table ready to be tack welded so is starting to take shape.
Regards
Russell
 
Progress report...
Well its official now, decision made and on we go!
This car will be a road going Mclaren M8B.
Components planned but not yet secured as someone may want different options.
Motor ...Lexus or LS1
Trans ...Audi ?
Shocks..Qa1
Rack...modified Ford Cortina.
Front uprights...Toyota Lite Ace
Rear uprights SS Holden axels, bearings and drive hubs in fabricated uprights.
So far we have turned 32mtrs of tube into what you see and be left with 3 bits of scrap no more than 300mm long plus a bunch of trimmings....no major miscuts.
All tacked up and ready to be welded out once the braces are in (need 1 more length of steel).
The dimensions have been altered to fit the Mclaren body work molds but still follows the basic GT40 plan.
Cheers
Russell
I have built it from 2mm tube because its going on the road and will be able to take even a steel Chevy if needed.
 

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Hi Russell I did the 40 chassis out of 40 x 40 x 2mm as well, and they still came in just under 100kg looking good.

cheers John
 
Good Lord! what number are you up to now, I will have to have mine at least rolling before you finish this one, Or the shame of it !! Looks good , what is involved in getting it VIN'd and certed I imagine the same rules as a Hot Rod. Looking good. Cheers Leon.
 
Leon, rules and money!
I have started filling out the DESIGN APPROVAL APPLICATION form which is a good few hours of work and research where you have to basically spec out your full design and set of components so much the same i spose. I did the same for the wide bodied V8 powered 7 that I built and that was no real drama, It helps the process when you use numerous standard components how ever the front wishbones will require testing. I think the cert costs will be around $2000.00 certified and registered.
Meantime I have put in a bit more time and steel, the center section where the radiator tubes run was formed out of 1.6mm and fitted in place, this also will allow some room for wiring ect. I have just done some side by side measurements and may want to lower the front top cross rail as its very close to the body, the radiator exit vent fits in between the side rails by 10mm! Now to build a rotisserie and complete all the welds and then put in the diagonal braces.
Cheers
 

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Hi there
Looking for some suggestions for mechanical rear hand brake, I am familiar with the Willwood units, are there any other units available.
Cheers
Russell
 
Finally sourced my rear tyres, walked into Herb Morgan tyres and he just had a special import container of tyres ex USA arrive.
Got a pair of 265 . 50 . 15 Hankooks that look really good, made 2 months ago for $350.00 each, now I can order my wheels, 9 inch wide rears should end up looking good and I will probably run 7 inch rims on the front with 225 50 15s.
My brother is in the States at the moment buying a Hellcat...720hp on the street, plum crazy colour and he tells me that he has a present in the boot that has 5 gears....can`t wait to see what Santa (Barry) has bought me, it will be gratefully accepted.
His line up will be really impressive now with an early 440 Road runner, Viper, Neon Srt4 and now the Hellcat...what more could you want for.
Cheers
Russell
 
Hi
I have opted for Willwood Mechanical brakes to solve the hand brake situation.
One of the drama`s of using a different design chassis is making things fit...you actually have to fabricate and then measure as you go, so as you can see I have had to make some detail changes in the front end because of the deep wide radiator exhaust scoop and the shallow height of the body work itself.
All going well and it will just sit on snug as.
From the look of my floor...its time for a clean up as there are more tools on the floor than!
Cheers
Russell
 

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Hi
Well yesterday was the big day...on the track for the first time at Hampton Downs.
Fired up and belts tight it was a case of get on the gas gently for a lap or so then as the wheels had not fallen off give it more squirt, happy to say that it ran well and sounded great with all vital signs looking good after several laps. Good oil pressure and no heating issues but boy does it get warm in the car with the radiator up front. I ended up doing 12 laps before the session ended and drove back into the pits to do a spanner check. Everything appeared fine apart from a rear brake dragging so after things had cooled down and freed up, i decided to just wind off all rear brakes and run front only.
Second session gave me the confidence to run a little quicker and rev to around 5500, as in the first run, even though its a little crackle and pop low down, it pulls really hard and clean from 3000 up so started to push it gently and was pleased at the initial chassis settings, it turns in well and ran true. I was running in a group of pretty hot smaller saloons so decided to give it a good squirt down the straight and easily passed them..just for fun!
Decided after about 8 to 10 laps that despite the fun I should put it on the trailer while the going was good and give it a real check over at home, so very pleased over all.
This motor whilst similar/same as the last car appears far more `camy` and really hauls past 3000rpm, its a Crower med spec cam and I am sure its better than my last local cam. I will still keep the limiter at around 6000rpm.
I am running a small sealed alarm power supply battery that amazes me how it will start the Rover numerous times without failing.
Time now to strip that caliper and check all the rest but very happy so far. Sadly the small action camera was not up to task and I have no film to brag with.
Cheers
 

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That's great news Russ, always good when it goes well straight out of the box.
cheers and a very merry Xmass

john
 
Chris
Would you believe a lump of silicone blocking the inlet from best I can see, when I pulled the carb hoses off there was a good glob of gasket material blocking the hose.
Runs like a baby now still set up as a dead head system.
Have to get it on film as it sounds great.
Cheers
Russell
 
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