Mclaren M8b replica (visual)

Hi
Been grinding away so some progress to report. Finally starting to take some shape now that doors are filling the gap. Considering how difficult it was to get measurements of the radiator outlet from the chassis to the mould, I am quite pleased at how the fit has worked out, even needed a couple of bubbles to accommodate the inboard shock tops. The off side door will be locked in place with Duzal fasteners because its only needed for fuel tank access and the drivers door will be fully functional. Used the be able to step over the sills into the old car but can not with this one. I have rounded off the nose either side of the radiator and also fitted the side air scoops in the rear clip which is fully tilt able now for engine access. These changes were not put into the mould due to the difficulty with extraction. Once all the body is fully set up, I will start the final sand ready to undercoat and paint. But first a really big clean up.
Cheers
 

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Hi there
All white now!
2 full undercoats and block sand followed by the third final undercoat and rubbed down with 400gt ready for the top coat which is on order.
Now for the major cleanout and reset up my temporary spray both for the final colour...lookin good.
Cheers
 

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Gorgeous work, as always.

I spent this past weekend at Road Atlanta at the annual vintage car race, watching some original Can Am cars go around the track, and basking in the glorious noise. A McLaren M8F, A McLaren M6A, a Lola T163, several T70s; two Shadow DN4s, and others.

I was there in my my refrigerator-white pickup with McLaren Automotive insignia, my son and I in orange M8B T-shirts, with my 1/2-scale M8B go-kart on a rack in the rear of the truck - got lots of smiles and thumbs-up.
 
Forrest, that sounds like fun...flick us some pics. I was into road racing Karts many years ago, like 40 plus. Thought about getting back in before I built my first M8 but costs and waistline prevented that.
Where did you get the McLaren T shirts from, nothing available in NZ.
Cheers
 
I got the shirts from some of the midway vendors at the event - I'll bet I could track them down.
 

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More pix -

Also - here was a 'zine article when I took the Kart in 2014. I bought it from the builder, Putsch Racing, and it's never been on the road - it hangs in my shop as a piece of inspirational art.

I did get to take some pix in the pits with its big brother!

<edit> I did get Brian Redman to sign the kart - he was Grand Marshall that year.

McLaren M8F meets M8B Go-Kart! Seeks Posh New Home; McLaren Owner Strongly Preferred

Forrest
 

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Also - I think I've finally firmed-up my approach for my M8B "tribute" street car project, especially after measuring and sitting in real M8s, and considering modern tire and brake sizes. Starting the CAD modelling now, so let's say a few years!

110-112% scale M8B, suspension-mounted high wing, the slightly rolled-under sides of an M8C, and the slight Coke-bottling of the body in plan view like a Lola T-173. Big-block Chevy of course, with an EFI-converted calliope-style mechanical injector setup.

The drivetrain will be of my own design; I'm prototyping it on my current Kelmark, to replace the SBC and Corvair transaxle.

Forrest
 
Forrest
That's a cool little car, what motor is it running...all dressed up to look like a Chev.
Yes would be keen to trace those shirts also.
Interested to see that you were thinking of going over scale in size because the standard dimensions of approx. 4mtrs long and 1800mm wide seem more than adequate. Its actually a decent size when you see it in the flesh. I have played around with spacing on this car so could give you some measurements to think about if that helps. Do you have a measurement from rear axel centre to front of engine pulley. I have also put inboard shocks up front which also allows a bit more length in the `cabin`. I would not rule out doing another body some time in the future, but at present after almost 5 months of dust and crap...I am over the mess.
Cheers
 

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The kart has a "Chonda" engine - a Chinese copy of a single-cylinder OHV Honda. The chassis and engine are apparently standard for a spec class; I don't know which one.

Proportions - yes, outside it seems fine - I've been able to be around them at vintage events (at least M8Fs) several times over the last, gosh, thirty years? It's more the "waistline" I'd like to raise, to feel more protected and "in" the car, but without scaling everything up, it looks wrong (at least in the CAD world). Also - my kit car now has a 94.5" wheelbase, and it is "twitchy" - fine for a race car, not so much for day-to-day - so I'm stretching the WB 10" (or 2.473680 in hectoliters, or whatever)

Below is my eventual drivetrain that I'm currently prototyping in my kit-car Kelmark, if I can digress a bit in your thread - It gets me some things I wanted - easy parts availability, a '70s vibe, absolutely bullet-proof even if drag-racing, the ability to change axle ratios easily, and an automatic transmission for traffic (I have three manual cars now, and that's fine). Also, the straight-line stability under acceleration (without huge development work) of a solid axle with a 4-link and a Watt's linkage. And, the entire drivetrain in front of the axle - the big-engine variants of this kit car had a complete Olds Toronado drivetrain and engine perched right over the axle - frighteningly tail-heavy and crude.
 

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Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
I would second Russell's sentiments on size (it's bigger than one would think). I do drive mine on the street 90% of the time. The rack has a 1.75 lock-to-lock (very fast steering ratio), and the only twitchiness I've noticed is the tracking in rut filled roads (not a too common a problem though). I'm building new front uprights with a much reduced scrub radius in an attempt to mitigate that. Overall, even with what I've noted here, the car is very tame, even on the highways were any twitchiness would be even more exaggerated with increased speed and responsiveness. Perhaps "waistline" protection could be had with a bar just under the edge of the door. This would at least provide comparable protection to a full size sedan's normal door. I just accept that this car is not going to come out well in any collision, and hence I put most miles on the odometer on country roads away from city traffic.
 
Good info. I do want to drive every day, which means a couple 15-mile trips on the Interstate in crazy Atlanta traffic. Gauges and cockpit equipment and finishes will be pleasure-boat sourced, so rain will just be ignored.

Forrest
 
Another reason I've had to really think seriously about driver protection this past week.

I saw Craig Bennett's crash Saturday morning in the #101 Shadow DN4 at Road Atlanta, and it was just horrific. He tunneled under one tire barrier and hit another coming down the hill towards Turn 12.

With nothing around his body but folded and riveted aluminum, he broke both arms and both legs and his back. He will be a long time recovering.

Forrest - shook
 

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Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Yeah. A roll bar only is no real protection when it comes to street driven cars like these. I can't imagine there would be any other outcome outside of being buried under whatever it is that you hit/hit you. And with a harness, you're not going to duck under whatever it is.
 
Without being flippant...if its going to bite...it will, no stopping it.

Finally after all these months of sanding we have colour, I am sure its a little more yellow than the first car how ever its the same brand and standard colour as before so what it is. is what its staying. Got a couple of runs in the hard to get areas so will survey the scene tomorrow once its all hard, no real biggies and still got enough paint to recoat again in total if needed.
Fortunately I still have a full spare set of decals so the big decision is do I put McLaren Cars or McCopy Cars on the side.
Cheers
 

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