MDA Mk1 with Gulf Arches - Martin P

[Martin]

A little more progress.

Installed the rear number plate lights
Installed cover plates to hide the access holes I made for the rear downforce plate
Installed the rear wiring loom
Fixed large grommets for rear number plate lamps (For easier access to the nuts at the rear)
Fixed the centre loom to the drivers side pontoon
Labelled the Dash loom the best I could and laid it in position
Front loom also laid in position
Pipe fixed in drivers pontoon to carry accelerator cable, clutch and brake pipe.

Martin

 

[Dave]

Glad to see your back on the build.

 

[Martin]

Malcolm,
Thanks for the tip, I'm in the process of removing the lip.

Not much progress lately due to work commitments. It pays for the build so I shouldn't complain.

I've started to tidy up the wiring and P-Clip the loom in place in the engine compartment. I've also had a go at adding inspection holes behind the rear bulkhead for the fuel tanks. I tried the drivers side first as that is the most tricky, due to the position of the battery box.

Martin

 

[Martin]

I took delivery yesterday of my block.
Quite an exciting time..

 

[Dave]

I took delivery yesterday of my block.
Quite an exciting time..

Nice... wonder if that'd fit in my pocket :laugh:

No worries for Friday Martin i'll be round as soon as i can after work.. to give you a hand, i'm looking forward to it.

 

[Martin]

Started preparing the Dash,
Cut holes and fitted switch plinths. they may not stay stainless, I'm thinking of powder coating them black.
Dash will be painted black. I picked up all the guages, switches and eyeball vents from MDA yesterday so I can nearly finish it, as I've got the loom already. Just waiting for the attachment panel at the side to complete.
I also picked up my steering wheel centre which I've been waiting ages for. I don't really need it yet, but it's one of those finishing touches that looks nice when people see the car.

Martin

 

[Martin]

Dials installed

 

[Martin]

Opened up the NACA ducts. I made them so they go into the car a few inches and then I closed them again as they won't actually be attached to anything inside the car. With the central duct just open I could see some small bolts and I didn't like that. I also didn't want any water inside the front clip.

 

[Martin]

Fitted my side repeaters

 

[Martin]

I've also fitted my first front clip latch. These are Hartwell type latches so I had to re make the cut out to make them fit. I reinforced the back of the cut out with stainless steel to get a really good firm attachment. Once the latch was in place, I had to do some bodywork to get the shut lines and profile correct as everything moved a bit.

 

[Martin]

Fitted up my mock block and then the gearbox. Lot's of small mods to do but basically it all fits nicely without any major chassis mods. My Flywheel and clutch are now at MDA awaiting balancing on my engine. When that's done and the mods are done to the bearbox hanging bracket, I should be ready for engine delivery and installation.

 

[Martin]

Like a few others here, I've decided to create a black border around my windows. Also fitted eyebrows to the door tops.

 

[Martin]

After reading an interesting recent thread on aerodynamic effects and underbody air flow at speed, I decided to take a look at my car to see what I could do to make it a little more slippery. On my MDA there is a rear cage that is needed to support my Porsche gearbox. I looked at panelling this to provide a cleaner escape for the air at the rear of the car. I've mocked up some templates and attached them to the car. I would appreciate comments on whether you think this is a good idea or not.
I won't be leaving them flourecent colours though. They will eventually be black powder coated.

 

[Cliff Beer]

Martin, looks like a good approach - the goal is to try to a) minimize the form drag by allowing the under body airflow to stay attached (good laminar flow) and flow up and fill in the void behind the tail section, and b) do so while accelerating the air flow from underneath the car (thus creating a low pressure zone). So, anything you can do to smooth the flow from under the car up into the void behind the tail is good - avoid hard turns (which disrupt laminar flow) as much as possible.

Looking good there!

 

[Martin]

Thanks Cliff,
With that piece of advise in mind I've made a start and made the undertray for the rear cage. I made it from stainless steel as it may get a battering and secured with stainless hex head bolts into rivnuts so the whole thing can be removed easily.

 

[Martin]

Next piece was the more tricky side plates. Not finished yet, but you get the idea.

 

[Martin]

Both sides completed and the rear centre grille held in position. I don't like the bling so both panels + grille will eventually be satin black. Another little job complete. Well almost.

 

[Tim Kay]

In viewing your build I notice the your extensive use of rivnuts, something I too have an affliction with :thumbsup: I have been inserting aluminum flush mounting rivnuts to the fiberglass for fastening plexiglass and rear grill components. Not only do you have to install the rivnut very carefully so as not to crack the fiberglass but unfortunately some have become loose and can not be replaced due to distortion of the fiberglass.

What are you using as a fastener on your fiberglass? Any suggetions?

 

[Bill Musarra]

Tim,
You didn't mention the size of Rivnuts you installed. I remember reading in another thread the use of plastic tubing surrounding the rivnut to allow it to move without affecting the fiberglass. The deformation of the rivnut was enoughto spread the plastic to hold in place, but allow movement if the panel flexed. Couldn't be very thick because you would want the outer lip to hold in place. Don't recall the grip lenght, but I would guess it would have to be longer than without. Don't recall the thickness of the tubing either. If you have any spare pieces of fiberglass from triming, you could experiment on it. If you have access to the back of the panel, then you could install what they call "back up plates"(sold in the pop rivet section) or washers to spread the load. Same thing on the outside of the rivnut if the plastic was as thick as the lip. Anyone remember the thread?
Martin, sorry for the divergence of the thread. thought it would aid in your build as well.

Bill

 

[Martin]

Hi Tim, Bill,
I like Rivnuts and indeed i've used them quite a lot. However, I use steel ones, not Aluminium. I've had a couple of problems around the windows where the application is critical and I've had the glassfibre crack. These are M4 size. I've had to dig it all out and start again which is a pain. Only time will tell if they all hold well or coarse me problems later.
Martin