My Scratch Built Project

[Phil]

Motor is re-set and mounted.
Had to move the crossmember forward 2", which reflected the difference between the ZF bellhousing and the Porsche setup I originally intended. The axle centerline on the Porsche box is also closer to the motor so the change was necessary.
I managed to get the motor centered within 1/16" side to side, well within tolerance.
Everything is level both ways, and I can now go and relax and enjoy some Christmas dinner.
Merry Christmas
Phil

 

[Phil]

Some thoughts on work done this past week. Since I am one of those mentals when it comes to measurements and dimensions I like to verify my work later.
I always like to take a step back and look over things before committing to final welding etc. Everything looks right and measures OK.
A few compromises were needed to mount the motor and get it as low as possible, one was the halfshaft angle which is not bad at all. The inner CV's are about 5/8" higher than the outboard units, and straight on fore and aft.
Oil pan is about 1/2" below the chassis, along with the bellhousing. Both will need attention and I had planned on altering the oil pan anyway. I didn't want to get too low with the bellhousing as I will need to machine off a flat area on the bottom and alter the inside cover plate to bolt up at the bottom...I was a little worried about the flywheel diameter, but the whole package sits pretty low in the chassis and since it is a wet sump motor there is no need to go lower, it is what it is.
A note on the motor placement...I was advised by a friend that the upper bolt hole in the timing cover for the water pump was in the center, and it just didn't look right. I made a plug to go into the lower crank seal cavity with a bolt thru for measurements, it turns out the hole is off-center about 3/16 to 1/4" to the left when viewed from the rear of the motor, and it was noticeable in a plan view as the valve covers were not parallel to the frame rails. I guess his motor is crooked!
Next week I will try to do the whole shifter setup from the bulkhead to the trans. I am trying to use as few u-joints as possible as any change in direction seems to add a rubbery feeling to the shifting. I am using 3/4" od chromoly tube .090 wall and it looks like I may be able to bend the tube and go under the starter, the rod will swing a little left to right but it looks like it will work.....2 u-joints one on the gearbox and one at the bulkhead connection are all that will be needed....we'll see if it works after I mock it up this week. Also I am not hanging below the chassis. I will post photos when I get that all sorted.
The rear of the decklid support frame was fabbed to clear the length of the porsche box, the ZF is short enough to fit inside the rear decklid support frame, so that will be altered so the rear crossmember is straight and tucked under the bodywork.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Richard]

Coming along nicely, Phil.

 

[Phil]

Thanks Richard, and Happy New Year;
I got the shifter sorted out in the last 2 days, had to add a third u-joint, but it all looks good and minimal play, mostly from the 2 thru bolts at the first and second u-joints. The bolts fit tightly, but even the slight play translates to a little wiggle at the shifter. It should all go away when everything is tightened. I can get all gears, but without the box turning and cold I am refraining from dry-shifting it too much.
It was necessary to put an intermediate hanger in the linkage, I honed a 3/4 rod end for a nice slip fit, and it provides lateral stability on the shaft, it is only clamped in place now with a plate, and it does flex a little so mounting that permanently will also take out a lot of unwanted movement.
I have about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4" throw at the top of the shifter in 1 thru 5, and reverse has about 2" travel, and the shifter moves smoothly so I guess this Saturday I can finish weld all of the junctions and tighten bolts and we'll see what it looks like.
I will post photos of the finished product after I feel it is working and looks good.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Russ Noble]

I will post photos of the finished product after I feel it is working and looks good.
Cheers
Phil

Hey Phil,

That's no fun!!!

The only reason anyone reads scratchbuild threads is so they can laugh at what some intrepid designer/engineer THOUGHT would work!!!

That's why scratchbuilds take so long because so many things go through at least three design stages and a couple of construction attempts before morphing into the final iteration that actually works!!

For the benefit of non-scratchbuilders it generally goes like this......

First design is perfect but won't fit into the space/gaps available.
Second design fits but doesn't work properly.
Third design fits and works but looks horrible, and by now you've thought of a better way to do the whole thing so it's scrapped and......
Fourth iteration is just the bee's knees!

Anyway Phil, the car's looking good, I really like the rear clip. Since you've got an original rear clip and are now using a ZF, have you had any thoughts about scrapping what you've done on the chassis so far and building an authentic mono????!! :idea: :thumbsup: :thumbsdown: :

Keep up the good work, all the best for the New Year.

 

[Phil]

Russ:
Happy new year to you also...you guys got to bring it in a lot sooner than we did here.
You are spot on about the various versions of pieces I have designed for this chassis.
As you pointed out, I am already contemplating changing the 3/4 rod end in favor of a combination linear/rotating bearing to make the rod action smoother, so I guess I fit that mold exactly.
Most of the dimensions of the chassis were really good, and there have been minimal changes, but as things get tighter in the engine bay,
space is at a premium for sure. I am confident that all will fit as I am at the point where I am fitting some of the last components before I go with the installation of the new motor, time will tell. I am sure there will be surprises to come.
I actually enjoy the problem solving, and I although I would love to drive the car tomorrow, I am willing to take the time and have it right putting the schedule back a little.
As far as building a mono, I would love to have the opportunity for that, but first I need to finish the project at hand and get it on the road. The mono would be a challenge for sure, but I don't know where the prints would come from.
Thanks for the good comments Russ. I look forward to your posts, and I hope you solve your bearing issues and get that setup really reliable.
Lets hope 2010 is a better year.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Phil]

Some Saturday progress:
Removed all the linkage and did some fine tuning of the fit and placement of the u-joints and hanger/rod end. Welded one side of the 1st. & 2nd u-joints, re-installed the whole affair and tightened all remaining bolts. The action is definitely smoother and more direct.
The intermediate shaft, being at quite an angle has some lateral travel to the left towards the motor mount during gear selection, of course this had to be trimmed (I think this falls under one of Russ's 4 stages!).
All is clear and free moving.
I wanted to insure that there was minimal or no shifter movement from the gearbox during torque up and it looks to be good. The mount for the rod end is heavy tacked in, and I can complete all the welds when the fit-up motor is removed.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Phil]

Some small progress this week...been pretty cold here this last week and repairs have kept me busy with other jobs.
Fabbed a sheet for the transaxle undertray, and it fits pretty well, I need to add 1/2" square tube to the outside perimeter and weld and finish the whole affair.
Meanwhile some new pieces arrived via my favorite machinist, 3/8 thick stainless flanges so I can start fabbing the headers. Nothing like consistency on a CNC machining center.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Phil]

Been a while since I posted.
Have been busy so work is slow on the car. I did finish most of my work on the new style uprights I designed for the rear. I thought about the ones on the chassis for quite a while, and they are quite adequate, but as I can't help myself when it comes to upgrading and improving I went ahead with new fixtures and a different design to further strengthen the upright and clean up the shape. Dimensionally they are identical to my original setup, but have an improved shape and cross section and mount at bottom are wider.
The total piece is 6061 alum, welded inside and out, and the bearing carrier is fabbed from a billet rod. I need to add caliper mounts but these photos should give a good idea of the general look.
I plan to complete these soon and do a swap on the chassis.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Dalton Veitch]

Really elegant Phil. Full marks to you.

 

[Kelly]

The total piece is 6061 alum, welded inside and out, and the bearing carrier is fabbed from a billet rod. I need to add caliper mounts but these photos should give a good idea of the general look. Cheers Phil

Nice work on those uprights Phil. What thickness sheet stock did you use? Do you know how much they weigh?

Kelly

 

[Phil]

Dalton, thanks for the marks. I still need to tune them up a bit and I will post a few photos as I progress on that.

Kelly, The whole unit is 1/4" 6061 sheet, the front and sides are one piece sections that are heated and bent to shape so there's no stress cracking at the bends.
My digital scale says 6.69 lb. for the unit bare, but I think it will still be under 7 lbs. with the caliper mount.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Phil]

Been a while since I posted, so here's some new photos.
I have been re-arranging the shop and busy with jobs so slow work on the project. I had to dig out all of the bodywork and move things so I temporarily mounted all the bodywork on the chassis for a look. The fits are pretty sloppy as nothing has been trimmed, and the doors are still in two pieces, but I thought I would post a few pics as it gives a good idea of what the final product will look like.

Also fabbed a small tank for window washer and attached the pump.
Next plan is to swap out the new uprights as soon as the lower rear wishbones are completed and mount the rear calipers and brakes.

More pics soon.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Phil]

Some progress on the new lower wishbones.
These are full chromoly units with a wider opening on the outside to accept my new uprights. Also they have 5 deg. caster built in to minimize the articulation on the inner spherical bearing, and the lower radius rod connection is in line with the radius rod when mounted.
I am using spherical bearings for inner and outer mounts, with a 5/8 thd. X 1/2" id high strength rod end for the toe link.
This unit is the RH side.
Hope to finish the other side and mount both uprights and lower wishbones on the chassis soon.

 

[Phil]

Finally got my bearings for inner and outer pivots on the lower wishbone. The upright fits well with one shim on the front side between the spherical bearing and the upright. Everything tight and the upright pivots easily in the wishbone.
The uprights have 5/16 setscrews at the bottom to fix the cross bolt in the bore, although the bolt fits a little snug I didn't want it rotating in the lower cross tube.
Some photos of the completed r/side lower wishbone with the upright mounted.
I ordered 12" long cross bolts for the bottom to replace the temp one in the photo. The setup only needs a 9 1/2" bolt, but I will cut and re-thread the longer bolts to the minimum thread to do the job.
The upper transverse link will remain the same in the setup, and as soon as I finish the left side and attach the caliper mounts all will get fit to the chassis.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Good to see progress Phil. I like the uprights too. Was there any softening of the material after the welding on the aluminum?

 

[Phil]

Terry:
I re-temper the uprights after they are completed so they are pretty strong, also I need to tune-up all of the outside welds for a more soild look. They are welded inside and out except for some non critical spots so essentially they retain their strength.
I will post photos when everything is complete to my satisfaction.
I checked out your posts on the fuel injection setup you constructed....really awesome setup. Looks like many hours pondering and fitting that up.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Johnny Mac!]

Phillip,

John McMahon here.....looks like the car is finally coming together! You are very close my friend! Damn...how many years has it been??? I remember when you had just started this project!!!

I wish I had stopped by your shop before I left. I am moving into my new home in NC this week.

Best of luck my friend!

JM

 

[Phil]

John:
Do stay in touch. Too bad we couldn't have gotten together before you leave, I wish you best of luck on your move.
E-mail me so I have your e-mail on file.
Sorry to see you leave but at the same time I wish I could afford to go also...Talk soon
Phil

 

[Woody]

Hi Phil
I too agree nice work on the uprights. This has been a real interesting build to watch. What CV and bearing unit do you intend to use?
Ive used late 80's corvette but always wondered if they are strong enough!. Be keen to know your thoughts
Woody