Need clutch/flywheel torque specs and sequence

Chris Kouba

Supporter
I am arranging the clutch bits in a more final fashion and found 75-85 ft/lbs as the consensus for the flywheel to crank and 18-24 ft/lbs for pressure plate to flywheel. I did not find a sequence to use for them to be tightened.

Two questions to the collective brain trust at large:

Do these numbers look correct?

Is there a proper sequence?

Thanks in advance!
 
This order is good for any 6 bolt sequence

With the clutch cover tighten the bolts evenly- say half turn at a time to prevent warping or cracking the diaphragm
 
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Dont forget thread sealant on the flywheel bolts if it is a 289/302 SBF based motor as bolt holes in crank flange go right thru to crankcase etc...

351W are blind, dont need sealant.
 

Chris Kouba

Supporter
Thanks for the confirmation Tom.

I'll dare to ask another stupid question though. I thought one is supposed to use thread lock on the bolts. Would I put some thread lock at the bottom of the bolt and then some sort of sealer at the top of the thread?

Ditch the thread lock?

What sealant? RTV silicone?

I assume the thread lock won't seal it, and I was planning on using it for the flywheel to crank but not the press plate to flywheel.

Discuss...

(and yes it's for a 302)
 
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I have virtually always used [ and still do PTFE thread tape on the flywheel bolt threads [ the occasions I did not was when I gave others credit for being cleverer or knowing more than me-- that was a mistake, they usually leaked along the threads ]. To add to that I have never ever had a flywheel bolt come loose in service from doing it this way on SBF stuff. Even the 351 variants , I dont used loctite or any concoctions on them either, again no instances of failure... its a case of having the correct bolt torqued to the correct value..thats all. That is one thing that can catch someone with no previous experience out, Ford use several lengths of bolt to suit the various combinations[ flex plate, thin/thick flange flywheels etc ] make sure your using the correct bolt with enough thread engagement...... BUT also make sure that they are not too long, on the 289/302 crank its possible to get a bolt right thru until it hits the main bearing cap/bulkhead, then the motor wont turn over at best, or you stuff the block at worst.:):)
 

Chris Kouba

Supporter
Thanks Jac, I hadn't even thought of tape.

And thanks for the heads up on the bolt length. They were specifically supplied by the trans guy and they don't bottom out on anything so I am thinking I am all set.

Chris
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
Thanks Jac, I hadn't even thought of tape.
I feel compelled to point out that the use of PTFE tape on parallel threads is a mis-use of the tape. PTFE tape itself is not a sealant; its purpose is to act as a lubricant in tapered thread (e.g. pipe thread) to allow the joint to be torqued enough to allow the threads to deform and seal. In other words, it is a "sealing" tape only in the sense that it assists the metal threads in achieving a seal.

I'm not concerned about whether it will in fact prevent oil from migrating out the threads. What I'm concerned about is that the tape's designed effect of reducing thread friction will invalidate whatever torque figure is used for tightening the bolts. If you use a "lubricated" torque figure you may be OK, I don't know. I have no idea, nor do I know where to look, to determine the relative coefficients of friction of PTFE tape vs. oil in a steel thread environment. If you use a "dry" torque figure I'm pretty sure you will grossly overtorque the bolts.

I'm curious: this problem (oil leakage past fasteners) is old as the hills. What does a FoMoCo shop manual say to do about this? In particular, how do they say to treat the flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts?

ARP sells a sealant specifically for "wet" head bolts, but they don't mention in the context of oil leakage in different application.

Their catalog also contains the following comment that suggests Loctite would serve as a sealant in this context. But again they are talking about head bolts and coolant, not flywheel bolts and oil.

NOTE:​
To ensure positive sealing of
“wet” head studs, a hardening or semi-hardening
sealant, such as Loc-Tite or Permatex,
etc. should be used. Some engine builders
employ a sealer in the coolant, such as
Aluma-Seal, Silver Seal or K&W sealer, etc.
You may also use high temperature RTV
silicone. Whatever product is used, it is
imperative that the cylinder head is installed
and torqued to proper levels
BEFORE THE

SEALANT HAS CURED!


 
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