Need cooling help please

[Rob Hurley]

The notch at the bottom of the timing cover appears to be a weep hole, so you can tell if the back of the pump is leaking. I don't think it should be filled with JB or sealant. I just seal around the water jackets.

There are two additional bolts underneath going through the oil pan and into the timing cover. You can clearly see them if you refer to the link in Michaels post #117. Keep in mind, taking the timing cover off may snow ball into an oil pan gasket. Not a bad idea if you have access. FelPro makes a really nice one piece gasket.

Know that Ford made a few different timing covers. They can easily get mixed up. Ask me how I know. Also, I have found that the cheap Chinese timing covers are junk. The last one I ordered the holes were off so far that I could not thread them into the holes on the block. I think Michael pointed you to a good one. Appears to be OEM with Ford stamping.

My 2 cents worth...

 

[Mike Christian]

Today I ordered the Ford one from Summit...it is due here tomorrow. No hope it is packaged well.

I have seen the weep hole you are referring to. I have read differing opinions. The old one wasn't filled and I would probably lean that way.

I am prepared to dive deeper if needed!

Thanks for you .02!

 

[Mike Christian]

So the new Ford Performance item came in from Summit Racing today. It was packaged nicely and came with all gaskets, dipstick hole plug, nice stickers, and a crank seal! The gasket surface is definitely machined better. What I find interesting is that the sensor mount is machined off. I guess it is a "non issue" for me. Looking forward to trying to put this on in a couple of weeks! Thanks for the tip.

 

[Mike Christian]

 

[Michael]

It looks good, interesting that the sensor boss is machined off.

 

[Mike Christian]

Okay Braintrust, I am back at it and have a few Q's. Today I was able to get the old timing cover off which was a chore. There was alot of sealant goop on the bottom edge and it took awhile to let go. As it did, the pan gasket tore across near the driver's side first bolt hole (at the end of the pan gasket internal metal strip). The half moon is intact:

I was able to clean off the cover's mating sufaces pretty good...not sure if there is a best method to get it any cleaner. It feels very smooth to the touch:

 

[Mike Christian]

So, to get this far I needed to remove the fuel pump and some sections of coolant hose. As I was cleaning off the fuel that spilled out of the pump onto a cart shelf, I noticed a small copper washer on the cart. Is this from the pump or from another project of mine? I do not see a location that would have had it. You can see it here on the right:

 

[Mike Christian]

I do have a new FelPro blue oil pan gasket that I can cut to replace the half moon. I know advise was to cut the oil pan gasket flush with the block, but it has internal metal. I can't just cut it with a blade. Should I focus on just surgically replacing the half moon near the first oil pan bolt holes (where it tore)?

Also, I see that a 3M weatherstrip adhesive is recommended for the oil pan gasket and for the half moon. I have these in hand...would one of these work as good?

I appreciate any help you can give this first timer. I am seriously hoping that the oil pan gasket does not need to be changed at this point as there are at least two bolts on each side near the mounts that look almost impossible to reach. I look forward to, hopefully, this being the end of the dismantle phase and a move to the reassemble phase! Fingers are crossed.

 

[David mono]

So, to get this far I needed to remove the fuel pump and some sections of coolant hose. As I was cleaning off the fuel that spilled out of the pump onto a cart shelf, I noticed a small copper washer on the cart. Is this from the pump or from another project of mine? I do not see a location that would have had it. You can see it here on the right:

View attachment 138644

Mike, the copper washer looks like its from the oil pan gasket. In the second photo down posted today.

 

[Rob Hurley]

We if were me, I would just put the car up on blocks so you can get access underneath, buy a nice set of 1/4 swivel sockets with long extensions and pull the pan. There may be a bunch of gasket material in there now and you don't want to have an oil leak after all this work requiring you to replace the oil pan gasket anyway. I know, not what you want to hear. Sometimes is best just to bite the bullet and go all in once.

 

[Mike Christian]

David, I am not sure that the oil pan gasket has washers between surfaces, but I will check. Thanks!

Rob, I do not think any swivels will get me there...don't know until I try though. Visually, I can barely see a few of them, and the thought of trying to reinstall those bolts tells me this might be a case where the engine is removed first.

BTW I have drained the oil and had rags in the openings while scraping the gasket. I am sure some bits might have entered the pan, but I am pretty sure that I caught most. I appreciate feedback.

 

[Brian]

I hate to make work for you, but I think you have zero chance of getting it sealed up without removing the pan to install the timing cover first, then the pan with a new gasket.

When you try to shove the timing cover into the saddle with the dowels in you way, then slide the cover back, you will dislodge the gasket ans open the gap where it's torn. And you stand a real good likelyhood of messing up or driving the dowels into the block and not having the cover concentric to the crank and making the front seal leak.

Some better mechanics than me may have successfully pulled this off before, but doing this out of order (cover fist then pan) is a recepit for disaster.