oil filter / cooler plumbing
- Thread starter russell k
- Start date
Dimi Terleckyj
Lifetime Supporter
No choice really.
Oil should flow into the filter first and then through the cooler.
That way all foreign particles are removed before entering and possibly clogging up the cooler.
That way only clean oil will be cooled and returned to the motor.
Dimi
Oil should flow into the filter first and then through the cooler.
That way all foreign particles are removed before entering and possibly clogging up the cooler.
That way only clean oil will be cooled and returned to the motor.
Dimi
David Morton
Lifetime Supporter
And maybe a thermostat as well.
Double edged sword this Q.
If the cooler I was to use could be dismantled and visually checked that it was absolutely clean & clear I would run it after the filter, However if is of the type that cannot be dismantled for cleaning or has 'turbulators' in the oil passages I would prefer that it was prior to the filter, particularly if its prior history was unknown. I know this flys in the face of some 'experts' but I have observed many instances where damage occur's due to crap from the cooler either from manufacture or poor attention to cleanliness by those installing the cooler. This of course means that any junk pumped from the motor will be likely to partially block flow thru the cooler which you have to bear in mind if any pressure problems arise.
Either way if you have a 'major' its unlikely that the filter will catch all the crap as once the element becomes partially blocked the by-pass will allow everything to enter the rest of the system. Most 'spin-on' have the element held in place by a spring/plate affair that will deflect to allow by-pass action.
Jac Mac
If the cooler I was to use could be dismantled and visually checked that it was absolutely clean & clear I would run it after the filter, However if is of the type that cannot be dismantled for cleaning or has 'turbulators' in the oil passages I would prefer that it was prior to the filter, particularly if its prior history was unknown. I know this flys in the face of some 'experts' but I have observed many instances where damage occur's due to crap from the cooler either from manufacture or poor attention to cleanliness by those installing the cooler. This of course means that any junk pumped from the motor will be likely to partially block flow thru the cooler which you have to bear in mind if any pressure problems arise.
Either way if you have a 'major' its unlikely that the filter will catch all the crap as once the element becomes partially blocked the by-pass will allow everything to enter the rest of the system. Most 'spin-on' have the element held in place by a spring/plate affair that will deflect to allow by-pass action.
Jac Mac
Russell,
I plan to run a pair of filters, one each side of the cooler. I know it's extra expense and weight but I can't afford to destroy a good motor.
Cheers
I plan to run a pair of filters, one each side of the cooler. I know it's extra expense and weight but I can't afford to destroy a good motor.
Cheers
Ross Nicol
GT40s Supporter
I found a way to destroy a good motor Russ, just don't put enough oil in.
Ross (still crying)
Ross (still crying)
Has anybody had experience with heat exchange units ? We have installed one for the engine and one for the gearbox, they look way too small for my untrained eye but I am assured they are capable of firstly bringing the engine and gearbox up to temperature quickly, then maintaining them both at optimum temperature.
Iain
Iain
Attachments
Iain,
There's quite a bit of discussion on this thread :-
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...bined-rad-oil-cooler.html?highlight=oil/water
Cheers
There's quite a bit of discussion on this thread :-
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...bined-rad-oil-cooler.html?highlight=oil/water
Cheers
Ian,
We run one on the TVR ( SBF ), approx 300mm long, 75mm dia. Installs in lower radiator hose, coolant thru center, lube around core tube, built it myself in a fit of anger after two high $$$ crap quality conventional air/oil coolers had failed in succession with small leaks in core. Oil temp without was heading for 270°+ ,now around 210°/ 220° constant.
Jac Mac
We run one on the TVR ( SBF ), approx 300mm long, 75mm dia. Installs in lower radiator hose, coolant thru center, lube around core tube, built it myself in a fit of anger after two high $$$ crap quality conventional air/oil coolers had failed in succession with small leaks in core. Oil temp without was heading for 270°+ ,now around 210°/ 220° constant.
Jac Mac
That's interesting, following advice from a Mr Yunick, we disabled the by-pass altogether and installed 2 extra long remote full flow filters on my SBC installation in the Penske Camaro (wet sump). Was that good advice? (in hindsight)
Smokey rarely gave bad advice - of course you have to remember the age we were in when this advice was given.
Back in the day there were really no filters that had their own built-in bypass.
Today you will be hard pressed to find a filter that does not have an integral bypass valve.
All that said I can't tell you the last time I saw shrapnel from an internal problem make it past the oil filter. I won't say that it doesn't happen.
If you are using a Dual Oil Filter, you are doubling the filter area and capacity if they are plumbed in parallel with each other.
Russell: Let's assume you are installing a new/clean oil cooler--it would be 1/2 smart not to--the correct order after the pump is the filter first after the pump, the filter is next to protect the cooler from contamination, then the cooler and back to the engine. There should be a screen in the pan/sump pickup before the pump to catch the big stuff.
If you're installing an external pump--wet or dry system--you can install a low-restriction in-line filter in addition to the pickup screen between the sump and pump to protect the pump. If more filtering area is desired, install dual filters in paralled or a large-diameter racing filter. Adding another filter in series will create excessive restriction, i.e. pressure loss, in the circuit. Caution: Any filter should have an anti-drain-back valve. For a lot of information on filters, check out Wix Filters' site: WIX filters, WIX oil filters, WIX air filters, WIX fuel filters, WIX Heavy Duty Oil Filters
Note: I recognize I'm echoing much of what's been said, but I thought it was important to reinforce it.
If you're installing an external pump--wet or dry system--you can install a low-restriction in-line filter in addition to the pickup screen between the sump and pump to protect the pump. If more filtering area is desired, install dual filters in paralled or a large-diameter racing filter. Adding another filter in series will create excessive restriction, i.e. pressure loss, in the circuit. Caution: Any filter should have an anti-drain-back valve. For a lot of information on filters, check out Wix Filters' site: WIX filters, WIX oil filters, WIX air filters, WIX fuel filters, WIX Heavy Duty Oil Filters
Note: I recognize I'm echoing much of what's been said, but I thought it was important to reinforce it.
Last edited:
Similar threads
