As per usual, Don, It looks fantastic. Keep up the good work.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Part 2 of Don's Mk IV Build
- Thread starter Don Nye
- Start date
Nice set.
D. Nye
Lifetime Supporter
The GT is now drive-able and in fact I went to the inspection station Saturday and she passed. Next step is the courthouse to renew the tags. Because it was at the body shop for so long the tags expired before I could get it re-inspected. No big deal just got to make the trip to talk with my favorite people.
During the last month I have installed a lot of hardware that had not been installed before i.e. all the number lights are installed and work. Cool sight to see the numbers lite at night. Fire suppression system installed in the cab and engine bay just because. Air box is finally installed and looks the part, see the attached pictures. The car now has a hydraulic lift kit to help with getting up the driveway and over the speed bumps. Rear sway bar is installed and the CNC mounting supports worked out great. I'm sure there is more but it all runs together like the CNC gear selector cover with the numbers engraved to remind me where the gears are. I have a hard time with 1st and 2nd with not being directly one over the top of the other. More of a problem shifting down than up through the gears. I'm hoping this gets better for my mind with driving time.
This week I will install a set of AVON CR6ZZ tires just because I wanted DOT tires to drive on the street. Next stop at weeks end is the 4 wheel alignment shop which I assume will take a week or two. One thing I've learned with this project is everything takes longer than planned when building a car like this.
Will try and take more pictures of the completed car and post soon. May need to take a new walk-a-round video with sound and talk about some of the details of the car.
Don
During the last month I have installed a lot of hardware that had not been installed before i.e. all the number lights are installed and work. Cool sight to see the numbers lite at night. Fire suppression system installed in the cab and engine bay just because. Air box is finally installed and looks the part, see the attached pictures. The car now has a hydraulic lift kit to help with getting up the driveway and over the speed bumps. Rear sway bar is installed and the CNC mounting supports worked out great. I'm sure there is more but it all runs together like the CNC gear selector cover with the numbers engraved to remind me where the gears are. I have a hard time with 1st and 2nd with not being directly one over the top of the other. More of a problem shifting down than up through the gears. I'm hoping this gets better for my mind with driving time.
This week I will install a set of AVON CR6ZZ tires just because I wanted DOT tires to drive on the street. Next stop at weeks end is the 4 wheel alignment shop which I assume will take a week or two. One thing I've learned with this project is everything takes longer than planned when building a car like this.
Will try and take more pictures of the completed car and post soon. May need to take a new walk-a-round video with sound and talk about some of the details of the car.
Don
Attachments
That is an incredible build. Looks 100% original.
D. Nye
Lifetime Supporter
Thanks Mike, I have done the best I can do with my skill level.
The car is legal with current tags and new tires are mounted, balance and installed. The AVON's just fit the car better. I have attached pictures.
Tomorrow I drop the car off at the alignment shop which they say I can pick it up before weeks end. That's much faster then I assumed if it really happens.
In looking at all the blogs on the forum about alignment settings it is interesting how close all the different manufacturers of replicas cars are. I will try and attach a spreadsheet of my findings.
Next week should be the time for more completed photos.
Don
The car is legal with current tags and new tires are mounted, balance and installed. The AVON's just fit the car better. I have attached pictures.
Tomorrow I drop the car off at the alignment shop which they say I can pick it up before weeks end. That's much faster then I assumed if it really happens.
In looking at all the blogs on the forum about alignment settings it is interesting how close all the different manufacturers of replicas cars are. I will try and attach a spreadsheet of my findings.
Next week should be the time for more completed photos.
Don
Attachments
I would like to know where you got thingie that surrounds the carb. Very interesting concept. I guess it's to direct air to the carbs, correct?
Marvelous job in producing a stunning replica Don!!!!
"thingie" that's a technical term right? :laugh:
"thingie" that's a technical term right? :laugh:
D. Nye
Lifetime Supporter
Mike & Randy, YES it's a tech term to direct cold air to the carbs.
The Plexi air box was something used by the Holman Moody team in 1967. It was a nice touch and was copied on the 7 continuation cars Mike T. built. I was lucky to find a spare from the guy who supplied the continuation cars. This concept of showing off the engine bay has been copied by a number of manufacturers since.
The Plexi air box was something used by the Holman Moody team in 1967. It was a nice touch and was copied on the 7 continuation cars Mike T. built. I was lucky to find a spare from the guy who supplied the continuation cars. This concept of showing off the engine bay has been copied by a number of manufacturers since.
Thanks for the explanation
D. Nye
Lifetime Supporter
I should share some of the issues after driving the car a few miles. It may help the next guy.
After driving the car to the alignment shop, about 12 miles, both CV boots on the right half shaft are off, see pictures. The axle angle is about 23 deg. at full drop and about 18 at normal drive height. I assumed that the axle damaged the boot flange and the boot pulled off. The reason for my guess is the boot flange appears bent, no flat surface for the boot to clamp to. The shaft does hit the flange at full drop. Talking with the Drive Shaft Shop they suggested High Speed CV Boots. They are in the mail. When they arrive I will post some pictures showing the repair.
The next thing on my list is doing something about is engine temperature.
Making that drive in stop and go Houston traffic the water temp did get to 220 F for that last mile and the pressure relief popped when I drove into the alignment garage. I pulled a hard vacuum when filling the cooling system so I sure it's not an air bubble, expansion talk was still full after it cooled off. Looking through old motor build pictures it appears the head gaskets are on right. I'm running the biggest CFM fans I could find but not sure they were running when I got out of the car. They did both work at on time. Will advise when I find something.
Everyone that has a GT knows how much fun these cars are to drive! Fun!
After driving the car to the alignment shop, about 12 miles, both CV boots on the right half shaft are off, see pictures. The axle angle is about 23 deg. at full drop and about 18 at normal drive height. I assumed that the axle damaged the boot flange and the boot pulled off. The reason for my guess is the boot flange appears bent, no flat surface for the boot to clamp to. The shaft does hit the flange at full drop. Talking with the Drive Shaft Shop they suggested High Speed CV Boots. They are in the mail. When they arrive I will post some pictures showing the repair.
The next thing on my list is doing something about is engine temperature.
Making that drive in stop and go Houston traffic the water temp did get to 220 F for that last mile and the pressure relief popped when I drove into the alignment garage. I pulled a hard vacuum when filling the cooling system so I sure it's not an air bubble, expansion talk was still full after it cooled off. Looking through old motor build pictures it appears the head gaskets are on right. I'm running the biggest CFM fans I could find but not sure they were running when I got out of the car. They did both work at on time. Will advise when I find something.
Everyone that has a GT knows how much fun these cars are to drive! Fun!
Attachments
Hi Don,
On the cooling, do you have small diameter bleed lines from the top of the radiator and the intake manifold t-ed into the filler tank to continually purge air? My system (small block MKI) capacity is about 3 gallons. I just run one gallon of coolant for the corrosion package and the rest water (plus some Water Wetter) since I never drive it below 50 degrees F outside temp. I know a 50:50 mix is standard but antifreeze holds heat. You can dial in the engine temp by the mixture ratio. Your big block will always be a challenge in traffic but maybe these things will help if you haven't done them already.
Mark C.
On the cooling, do you have small diameter bleed lines from the top of the radiator and the intake manifold t-ed into the filler tank to continually purge air? My system (small block MKI) capacity is about 3 gallons. I just run one gallon of coolant for the corrosion package and the rest water (plus some Water Wetter) since I never drive it below 50 degrees F outside temp. I know a 50:50 mix is standard but antifreeze holds heat. You can dial in the engine temp by the mixture ratio. Your big block will always be a challenge in traffic but maybe these things will help if you haven't done them already.
Mark C.
D. Nye
Lifetime Supporter
Rod, Jac and Mark all great ideas. I am running a vent off the top of my radiator to the expansion tank and because I'm running an electric water pump I see a full stream when I switch the pump on. Mark you are right on with the heat capacity of water. Pure water is best but you need some corrosion protection so your suggestion is on target. I think you would agree distilled water is best when mixing with coolant or nothing at all in a cooling system.
Rod, Evans Coolant appears to be a great product however they tell you not to mix with any water and it's very expensive. This being a big FE it does hold a lot of coolant and getting all the water out would be an issue. I would prefer to have a water mix if possible but Evans Coolant is a possibility in the future.
Jac, After getting the ZF made I wondered why a ZF in the normal Pantera configuration would have worked better for my car. It would have lowered the axles connection points and reduced my half shaft angles. I can't really lower the engine because of the oil pan getting too low but not impossible just buy a new oil pan which makes you buy something else etc. etc... You know how it goes, change one thing and it has a ripple effect and can get very expensive. I'm going to try the recommended High Speed Boots before going down that road.
Thanks,
Rod, Evans Coolant appears to be a great product however they tell you not to mix with any water and it's very expensive. This being a big FE it does hold a lot of coolant and getting all the water out would be an issue. I would prefer to have a water mix if possible but Evans Coolant is a possibility in the future.
Jac, After getting the ZF made I wondered why a ZF in the normal Pantera configuration would have worked better for my car. It would have lowered the axles connection points and reduced my half shaft angles. I can't really lower the engine because of the oil pan getting too low but not impossible just buy a new oil pan which makes you buy something else etc. etc... You know how it goes, change one thing and it has a ripple effect and can get very expensive. I'm going to try the recommended High Speed Boots before going down that road.
Thanks,
