Phil's RCR GT40

Is anyone familiar with this Aeromotive Fuel Pump? Seems like it could solve some of the fuel starvation issues discussed with the in tank setup.
Great setup. I run the dual 340 kit in cobra and dusl 450 kit in my supra. No issues or loss of FP ever even on e85.
 

Phil G

Supporter
Maybe someone can weigh in.
The fork shaft which is 5/8" on the Quaife extends out both ends of the case thru an approx 1" hole. This seems to me that it makes for a sloppy release.
When the clutch is depressed the shaft is not firm and wobbles. I was going to have bushings made for each end but I am not sure if this is the correct thing to do. Can anyone with knowledge of these setups comment.
Thanks


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Phil G

Supporter
Joe, I am hoping its back shortly.

I regards to the fork shaft issue in my last post..there are bushings that were not supplied that go in the holes..I am waiting for delivery of them.
 

Phil G

Supporter
I went to Metal Morphous today to see how the body work was coming on my car. I sent the chassis there as a roller because I chose to have the panel fitment and body work done prior to me doing all of the mechanicals. Once Ron has completed his work I will take the car back and do all of the mechanicals and then send the car back for tweaking and final paint.
Ron was very pleased with the RCR body and the fitment of the panels. I have attached some photos of how nice Ron got the panels to fit with just some sanding and no body filler at this point. I am hoping to pick the chassis up shortly and get started on my end.
See attached photos.
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Randy V

Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Ron Randall has done some fabulous work - particularly in his metalizing process. I would advise that you ensure the basic alignment and ride height is set and locked in prior ro the fitting of the body. Replace the shocks and springs with solid steel struts to lock in the ride height since all the weight won’t be in the car at that point...
 
Very nice. I am undecided on who will paint my car. I have heard that Metal Morphous does a fantastic job. I am building mine a little different. I purchased the frame and my car will go back to Active Power soon for body fitment. Interested to see how everything lines up and may even drive mine for a season without paint to work out any issues.

stack
 

Phil G

Supporter
Made some progress after getting my car back from panel fitment. First I stripped the car down to just the bare chassis. I had to swap out my front pulley setup and switch to the CVF assembly. My original serpentine setup did not fit without major modifications which required cutting into the chassis. I then got the engine mocked up and fitted in the chassis to check clearance and installed engine mounts. Next I did some work on the fuel tanks. I mounted the Aeromotive in tank pump and had some mounting points welded to the tanks to bolt them in place. I had some rubber tiles I cut and attached them with 3M adhesive to the bottom of tanks for a little cushion. A couple of bolts at the rear and front worked out nicely. I did not attach anything permanent as I will be sending the chassis out for blasting and powder coating ( Satin Black) this week. Hopefully I can start making some real progress when I get the chassis back from powder coat. I have a few photos attached for reference.
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Ron McCall

Supporter
Maybe someone can weigh in.
The fork shaft which is 5/8" on the Quaife extends out both ends of the case thru an approx 1" hole. This seems to me that it makes for a sloppy release.
When the clutch is depressed the shaft is not firm and wobbles. I was going to have bushings made for each end but I am not sure if this is the correct thing to do. Can anyone with knowledge of these setups comment.
Thanks


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Phil,

There should be a small needle bearing pressed into the case on either side to support the shaft. PM me and I will provide you with the part #.

Ron
 

Neil

Supporter
Porsche made the same mistake in their G50 release shaft bearings. A needle bearing is one of the worst choices they could have made. Needle bearings are great for rotating shafts but the clutch release bearing experiences only a small degree of rotation of its shaft back and forth. This eventually creates a track where all its greased is squeezed out and them the bearing fails due to fretting. These needle bearings are a headache to Porsche owners and the usual replacement is an Oilite bronze plain bearing.
 

Phil G

Supporter
Neil
I had ordered the needle bearings and since they were taking a while to come in I went ahead and ordered the oiled bronze bushings. With this new information I will probably use the bronze bushings. That being said I am also considering switching to the Mcleod internal Hydraulic bearing. I still have some time to decide. Just seems like the Mcleod is much simpler with a lot less moving parts. Unless it starts leaking then not such much.
Thanks for the info.
 
Phil,
The critical item when you use the McLeod throwout bearing is getting the air gap set up properly. Most issues friends have had come from to much air gap and then the piston pops out. One other person used a bulkhead fitting thru the bellhousing and didn't have enough slack in the short hose from the fitting to the bearing. The internal hose came apart and made a mess. I've had one in my Unique Motorcars Cobra kit for ~20 years and never had an issue. I've actually modified the screw spacer a couple of times for different transmissions I installed due to me driving like a maniac. Watch it start leaking now after I've bragged about it....LOL....
 

Phil G

Supporter
Thanks Chris for that info. I have not got to that point yet.
In the meantime I have sanded the complete chassis using an orbital electric sander with 80 and 120 grit. I went a little rougher underneath because I plan on undercoating the bottom. I should be dropping it off at the powder coaters next week and hope to have it back shortly after. Should come
out nice..I think the contrast of the black chassis brings out the machined alluminum and shiny parts. Once I get it back I hope too make some real progress. Merry Christmas to all!
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Phil G

Supporter
I had some time to work on the body while my chassis is out for powder coating. I decided on installing the Quicklatch setup on the cowl and front clip. I had to be very careful when making the holes..they need to be lined up perfectly to work correctly. I chose the 1 1/4" for the cowl and 1 1/2" for the front clip. I have some in 1" also however they seemed a bit small. It was time consuming but came out nice and works great.
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Bill Kearley

Supporter
No problem with a McLeod bearing in a Mustang build I did 20 years ago. Fingers crossed!! I used an internal piston in my build but if I did it again I think I'd use a external piston. In a 40 a leak inside would be a big pain in the ass.
 
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