Porsche transaxle starter fitment...

#1
I found some useful info on this site on fitting a starter for the Porsche transaxle. I have a stock Bosch starter but as many of you know the solenoid gets in the way of the Horshoe in the RCR chassis. Hi Torque says they have a starter that will work for my application but I am bulking at the $600 price tag. Is the Hi Torque starter a much better starter than the stock Bosch unit? Would I be better off just re-locating the ears on my stock starter to clock the solenoid out of the way? A bit of a project to do, it seems, but not impossible. Does anyone have the best(in their opinion) work around for this?

Kim
 

Julian

Lifetime Premier Supporter
#2
A number of manufacturers offer a 'clockable' starter that allows rotation in the mounting or an adapter to achieve same for a lot less than $600. That is not to say the Hi Torque is not a good starter.
 

Randy V

Administrator
#3
If you take a look at my build site you can see the route that I took. It was a lot of screwing around, but clockable starters were not available at the time.
 
#6
Hi Kim,

When I first built my car I used a Porsche starter. I had some new lugs welded onto the starter mounting plate which allowed me to rotate the starter and have the solenoid out of the way. It wasn't a massive job.

Regards,
 
#7
A number of manufacturers offer a 'clockable' starter that allows rotation in the mounting or an adapter to achieve same for a lot less than $600. That is not to say the Hi Torque is not a good starter.
Thanks, Joules5. If you have any names of these manufactures, please let me know.

Kim
 
#8
RCR T70 similar chassis

Unfortunately -"Titus" the god of spend thrift doesn't apply here :)
I'll happily spend the money for a better starter, but I've read that some have been unhappy with the aftermarket starters and prefer the Bosch unit. What say you flatchat? Is the starter you show in the photos a better starter than the Bosch unit?

Kim
 
#9
Hi Kim,

When I first built my car I used a Porsche starter. I had some new lugs welded onto the starter mounting plate which allowed me to rotate the starter and have the solenoid out of the way. It wasn't a massive job.

Regards,
Thanks Graham! Do you still run the Bosch or did you find a starter you liked better?
 

Ron McCall

Bronze Supporter
#10
The Bosch unit is a fine piece. What I have done in the past is to re-clock the starter to clear the chassis . There is plenty of material in the bellhousing casting to re-drill one of the mounting holes in a new location. The other mounting hole can then be drilled into the billet adapter plate provided by RCR and a simple spacer fabricated to bolt it solid. Works like a champ.


Ron
 
#11
Take a look at page 4 of my build. Starter part number is IMI-101NL.

Hi Adam, Have you actually used this starter yet? Does it engage with your flywheel? I saw your build a few weeks ago and based on it I ordered the same starter, 101NL, $295...nice starter, good price. But when I received it compared it to the Bosch starter I have, and know works, it didn't have nearly the reach needed to get to the flywheel...like almost 2 inches short. I called the folks at Hi Torque(who have been really great to deal with)and showed them photos of the Bosch starter I had, they said they had the starter I needed but it was $600...a bigger more billet encased pinion that had the strength to handle the much longer reach. And that brought me here. I have a Tilton flywheel and clutch that puts the ring gear in the stock Porsche position. Unless your clutch and flywheel puts your ring gear much deeper in the bell housing, I don't believe that starter will work.

Kim
 
#12
The Bosch unit is a fine piece. What I have done in the past is to re-clock the starter to clear the chassis . There is plenty of material in the bellhousing casting to re-drill one of the mounting holes in a new location. The other mounting hole can then be drilled into the billet adapter plate provided by RCR and a simple spacer fabricated to bolt it solid. Works like a champ.


Ron

And we have a WINNER! Of course! Simple, smart, easy! Nice Ron...thanks!

Kim
 

Randy V

Administrator
#14
The Bosch unit is a fine piece. What I have done in the past is to re-clock the starter to clear the chassis . There is plenty of material in the bellhousing casting to re-drill one of the mounting holes in a new location. The other mounting hole can then be drilled into the billet adapter plate provided by RCR and a simple spacer fabricated to bolt it solid. Works like a champ.


Ron
I think what you did was quite similar to the way I did it. However, the OEM Porsche starter could not be reclocked that far without having the the starter’s nose cone (Shield around bendix) come in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate.
Here was my solution : STARTER

Not elegant, but it worked. Note that the bellhousing was pretty thin where it had to be re-drilled so I used a 7/16” fine thread allen bolt that I cut down on my lathe to fit in from the inside.
 
#17
Flywheel, clutch, ringear --this is the system that we use which works for us --anything else , you're on your own
Flatchat,

I see...your setup puts the flywheel deeper in the housing than the stock Porsche position. That allows you to use the 101NL type starter...$300. My flywheel sits in the stock Porsche position so I need a longer pinion shaft. Here's a side by side of the 2 starters. IMG_2347 (1).jpg
 
#18
I think what you did was quite similar to the way I did it. However, the OEM Porsche starter could not be reclocked that far without having the the starter’s nose cone (Shield around bendix) come in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate.
Here was my solution : STARTER

Not elegant, but it worked. Note that the bellhousing was pretty thin where it had to be re-drilled so I used a 7/16” fine thread allen bolt that I cut down on my lathe to fit in from the inside.

Randy, A clever solution! Fortunately my starter doesn't have the nose cone so I'm only limited by the clearance between the solenoid and the CV joint.

Kim
 
#18
I wish I had better pics, I had the same issue with my LS7/G96.50 swap in my pantera.

The starter solenoid was literally in the frame with the stock clocking, and redrilling wasn't an option for me due to clearances. I lopped off a the starter mount ears, and built a slip on housing which would hold the starter into the stock bellhousing bolt location (solenoid mounted down/under the box), and prevents the starter from rotating on operation. In the pics you can just see the top mount tab peeking out from under the shifter arms on the box. Came out pretty clean looking.

Haven't tried it out yet since I was missing a fly wheel when I was doing this work, if this fails I'll go the $$ route and buy a clockable starter.
 

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